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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided to replace the rear air shocks on my family mover. It was very bouncy in the back and sloshing around on turns. I had no desire to move away from the auto leveling. I ordered OEM replacement parts. It turned out to be a very straight forward job (for once!).

1. Safety first! Jack rear end. Set on jack stands. Use hydraulic jack on rear differential as backup. Chock front tires.
2. Remove the small plastic cover to gain better access to the upper bolt. My shade tree mechanic tip is to use a little silicone lubricant on the push-type clips before prying on them. This helps them from breaking.
3. I used a small jack under the control arm to keep the lower arm from sagging after the bottom bolt is removed.
4. Remove air line. Depress the ring towards the shock and pull out the air line.
5. Remove lower bolt.
6. Remove upper bolt.
7. Remove shock.
8. I typically clean up the area where the new bushings will sit with some degreaser then water.
9. Install in reverse order.

Torque spec is 120 ft-lbs. Put a dab of medium threadlocker if you are so inclined. I did.

I attached a few pictures. Hope this helps.

2011_SL_Tip.jpg 2011_SL_Air_Shock.jpg 2011_SL_Air_Shock_Jack.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, it did.

This is primarily my wife's car and she commented that it drives better, too. I've done a good bit of suspension work over the last couple years. This includes front and rear shocks, end links, and sway bar bushings. Every little bit improves the handling and ride. When I first purchased the vehicle (used) the bump steer was really bad.
 
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