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Just in case someone wants to know how to do it here are the steps of what i did. the total time is ~5 hrs. This includes my trip to and from the shop and waiting for them to remove the strut assembly and replacing it with the Bilsteins shocks.

Tools: Power tool if you have them. The 3 bolt on top of the struts are 14mm and the big one on the bottom is 3/4 (thats what i have to use for my power tool)

- jack up the car on both sides using jack stands
- remove tires
-put a small jack under the control arm (a trick i learned a long time ago lowering cars :D) see pictures. I use the jack to hold the control arm so it wouldnt drop when i remove the big bolt and the 3 nut on top. The jack also help push up the top wishbone so i can loosen the nut with a socket wrench. when i remove the big bolt and the 3 nut i lower the jack until the strut is fully extended.



-push down on the rotor so you can squeeze the strut out.
-once out take it the shop and have them replace it with the new Bilstein shock. :D



-to install push the rotor down and insert the strut assembly top in first. I put the two top nuts on so I dont have to keep on holding it. I tap the bottom in. Once in I use the jack to raise the control arm up so the strut are flush on top and the bottom hole wouldnt be crooked. Put in the big bolt,tighten it and tighten the 3 nut on top
-put tire back on and lower.

Hope this help at least 1 person. :D
 

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OK so dumb question since I am really not good at this stuff. You only do the fronts and that doesn't cause any issues?

I called my Nissan dealer and they wanted $300-$400 + $125 for realignment to do it so I am going to call around a little bit. Not sure this is in my skill sets, but it doesn't look to hard.

What did the shop charge for replacing the shocks?

Thanks!

EDIT: Meinek wants $129 or something (can't remember exact number) so that is a no-brainer for me. Now he looked it up in the book and said it is only shocks and not the struts - does that make sense to you? Honestly this is greek to me - just trying to figure it out :)
 

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I have removed teh struts just fine ,had knock a bit,, but cant get it, its seem I have to remove the nut connecting the sway bar, is thi struw or should I apply more pressure using the 2x4 wood

jay,
 

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Definitely disconnect the swaybar!!!! :) You'll never drop the UCA low enough with the sway bar still connected unless both sides are jacked up (dangerous!!)... Just disconnect one or both sides of the end links before jacking it up then reconnect them after lowering it back down...
 

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I have a few questions... How long until the oem shocks have worn? My Armada has over 60k miles and wanders all over and the tires are worn like it needs aligning. I am trying to decide if I need shocks too.

Also, I have the tow package so I am assuming that I have the auto leveling rear suspension, correct?

When I was pricing replacement front shocks, most of the fronts had notes that indicated they were only for use with on 'madas with the standard rear suspension.

What's the best shock for these trucks?
Thanks.
 

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Yea, you likely need shocks... load-leveling is included with the tow package... some people like Rancho, some like Bilstein, and I like Sway-A-Way... :D Shocks for the Titan are the same as ours...
 

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Thank you. It's not what I wanted to hear considering the added cost but I would rather do it right the first time than to eat a set of tires cause I skipped the shocks.
 

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FWIW, I still have my original Load-Leveling shocks in the rear and am approaching 85k miles... Lately there's been some excessive sway coming from the rear (keep in mind I also have a 2nd pair of ProComp shocks too) so I think those might be worn as well.... When it gets bad enough, I'm seriously thinking about getting a pair of Radflo w/ some Eibach replacement coil springs from PRG and just connecting the OEM air hoses to a pair of Air-Lift Helper Springs...
 

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I looked up shocks on Bilstein's site. They only show the Titan. So I looked up Titan shocks but there's nothing that indicates load leveling. http://www.bilsteinus.com/cart/ymm.php?year=2006&make=NISSAN&model=TITAN&zenid=

Does anyone have a link or list of part numbers of the front shocks that are okay with the load leveling? Or does the fact that I have load leveling on the rear even matter regarding front shocks?
 

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Definitely disconnect the swaybar!!!! :) You'll never drop the UCA low enough with the sway bar still connected unless both sides are jacked up (dangerous!!)... Just disconnect one or both sides of the end links before jacking it up then reconnect them after lowering it back down...
Is there any tension on the sway bar? Sounds like you remove the sway bar at the connector rod, is that right. I read another post with someone removing the bushing bolts.
 

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When doing new front and rear shocks/struts, whatever they are....should you repalce the springs too? With OEM ones, or elsewhere? My auto guy said to buy what I want and bring it down, and they'd install. I'm going with Ranchos.
 

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I have an SE. No load leveling. So the coil over shock up front, I thought the old coil was reused. no? I need to look up the parts I guess.
 

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Bilsteins 5100s installed

So I put in the new Bilstein 5100s at stock level with the ring in the lowest position. The project went as smooth as I could have hoped. I did a lot of research on this forum and was a little nervous after seeing threads about missing washer and Bilstein not supply what was needed. read where people were using 2x4s to pry the suspension to get the struts out. No problem here, I have a really nice set of jack stands and chocked the rear wheels while lifting both sides of the front end. After removing the three upper nuts and the large lower bolt the struts came right out. I used the loner spring compressors from AutoZone to compress my spring and remove them from the old strut. This did take some serious cranking, it was a good workout with my cross force ratchet wrench. After I pulled the old strut out i slid the new Bilsteins in, removed the nut at the top and took everything from the original setup and slid it on to the new Bilstein. My Bilsteins came with the large washer on them and I never took it off only removed the nut to slide on the top works from the old setup. I Didn't mess with the old washer that was fixed to the boot of the old shock, just took everything else and put it on the new strut. After tightening up the retaining nut on top of the new shock, I released the the spring compressors. The new setup slid back into the truck. I then put the 3 top nuts in place and with some minor persuasion got the large lower bolt in. The whole thing took me about 3.5 hours alone. My Armada has over 99,000 on it and this was overdo. It rides a hell of a lot better. I also had some steering wheel shake when braking to a stop and that is gone. No more hitting dips and feeling like we are in a boat.

I am very impressed with the way it went and how the truck feels now. I would like to thank everyone on the forum for the info that helped me get this done.

Special thanks to Pops. Your posts have helped me several times with question about my Armada.
 

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Finally got my new Bilsteins HD installed. Thanks to all posts explaining on how to install and what not to use... it was a lot of help. It was rather uneventful until I tried to remove old shocks, since the 8mm stud on top of the shock rod post was corroded but after a lot of cursing and determination we got the nut off. I purchased the Single Action Spring Compressor, from Harbor Freight, what a piece of junk. If any one considers doing this job your self don't even waste time and money on this tool, just rent a spring compressor from Auto Zone, so much easier, quicker and cheaper. That's what I should have done, but I figured I could use it on other cars or have friends and family use it as well. Again, thanks for all the input.
 
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