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Discussion Starter #1
It seems as if the crossbars are so far apart that there isnt a box that will fit. Ive checked the Yakimas out but they run a bit short. I know there is a Load warrior which is pretty much a basket with no cover. I would like the cargo box so stuff stays protected when traveling. I am heading to Washington State at the end of the month and in desperate need for a cargo box. I would like to use the factory crossbars rather than putting in another couple hundred to get more bars added. Does anyone have any suggestions
 

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Hope you don't mind a little cutting

Hi, we have a Thule 1800 that works great. Lo and behold though, getting ready to leave for Whistler and put it on for the first time and found the same problem. A couple hours and couple beers later though and all ready to go. Very straightforward fix.
The latches (4 of them) that hold the box to the cross bars slide in a slot. Basically, make the slot longer and the latches adjust farther.
Here is what I did:
1) Drill out four rivets holding sheetmetal guide piece for each sliding latch.
2) Mark slot approximately 4" longer. Drill 3/8" hole at end (nice rounded end)
3) Cut slot with fine tooth sabre saw (plastic is EZ to cut)
4) Drill 4 new holes, rivet with 3/16" dia. alum rivets (gun and rivets $20 at Lowes)
5) Rivet sheet metal covers and latches back on (make sure you point the latch right way)
6) Do the other 3 corners the same way. Cover extra slot with black duct tape if you are in a hurry to go skiing or put some extra sheet material (plastic or...) to cover if you really want to, it is not necessary.
Takes 5 minutes to put on or take off of Armada by myself. :clever:

Hope this helps. The Thule 1800 is also nice because it opens from either side. Also, I can fit into my garage (8' tall door) with it on top (but not your typical 6' - 9" or 10" parking structure, ouch! Almost went there when it was on the Pathfinder.
 

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I have a Yakima Rocket Box that would not fit the crossbar spacing. So I drilled 4 holes and moved the front clamps forward so the box now fits just fine. The Rocket Box tapered in the front so the newly drilled holes were on the same "plane" as the old ones it worked out really good, and with the flat cross bars on the Armada is more secure then with the round bars that Yakima supplies.

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ken_taylor said:
I have a Yakima Rocket Box that would not fit the crossbar spacing. So I drilled 4 holes and moved the front clamps forward so the box now fits just fine. The Rocket Box tapered in the front so the newly drilled holes were on the same "plane" as the old ones it worked out really good, and with the flat cross bars on the Armada is more secure then with the round bars that Yakima supplies.

Ken
did you happen to have pics I can see. I actually prefer to do what you did if I had to. How did you plug the existing holes?
 

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I tried this last year with no luck I made a brackett for my thule box so it would reach. It worked for the entire trip from alaska to michigan to wyoming. You can also buy another cross bar for the back roof rack from nissan its about $65. That is what i would have done if not for the shipping time to alaska.
 

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bootyologist24 said:
did you happen to have pics I can see. I actually prefer to do what you did if I had to. How did you plug the existing holes?
There is not much to see, but I will take some pics, if not before, I will take them this weekend. I had a couple of plugs that Yakima had supplied, and used duct tape on the rest. I bet you can get plugs from Yakima.

Ken
 

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I drilled new holes. I have a Thule. If you are worried about the holes, plug them with some stickers. Thule and the others have predrilled holes and come with stickers to cover the holes you don't use. Since they are on the bottom, there is very little chance any moisture will go up and they act like drains anyway.
 

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Got a Thule adventurer. I had to drill additional holes - no big deal. Just put the Armada crossbars as close together as you can, mark and drill.

I use duct tape or electrical tape to cover unused holes without any problems. Driven through snow, sleet, and rain without incident.
 

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The reason I went with moving the adjustable brackets is so that I can still put the box back onto my 95 Pathfinder and it for the closer bar spacing. Drilling new holes is definitely quicker and easier, but on boxes with adjustable brackets you would still need to drill out the existing rivets to free up the brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm considering getting another crossbar for the back. They go for about 60 bucks or so. I just wonder if the weight distribution will be fine being that the weight will be more on the back end of the box.
 

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bootyologist24 said:
I'm considering getting another crossbar for the back. They go for about 60 bucks or so. I just wonder if the weight distribution will be fine being that the weight will be more on the back end of the box.
For the short wide boxes, I'd just mount them on the back. Maybe with a second span. For my box, I have a long slender ski type box. Those kinds I'd drill holes and use the existing spans.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
92TripleBlack said:
For the short wide boxes, I'd just mount them on the back. Maybe with a second span. For my box, I have a long slender ski type box. Those kinds I'd drill holes and use the existing spans.
Yeah, I'm really interested in the shorter but wider box. Its called the Space cadet. Check out that link. Anyone have this? Any feedback
 

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bootyologist24 said:
I'm considering getting another crossbar for the back. They go for about 60 bucks or so. I just wonder if the weight distribution will be fine being that the weight will be more on the back end of the box.
You may want to measure first. With my Yakima, the two original bars were too far apart, but adding a crossbar would have made them too close together. I couldn't figure out a way to make it work without modifying the box.

Ken
 

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The shortest distance you can get between the bars is 42". Maybe adding one will allow the stubby box instead of the long one. I love the long one because it keeps all the cargo near one side of the truck, making it easy to access. Also, it has less frontal surface so it gets you better mileage. Last, I do ski and use it to carry skis. Its also been good for sandy beach umbrellas, salty life jackets, etc.
 

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bootyologist - Be sure to measure the back hatch when it is up also- if you move boxes back too far (eg trying to get totally on the rear bars) it could interfere with hatch fully lifting up. On my other rig, the Pathfinder, I had to buy gutterless mounts to mount a crossbar way up by the front doors because the hatch wouldn't open unless it was pushed up. Of course on this monster truck the box looks 2/3 scale!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
armoody said:
bootyologist - Be sure to measure the back hatch when it is up also- if you move boxes back too far (eg trying to get totally on the rear bars) it could interfere with hatch fully lifting up. On my other rig, the Pathfinder, I had to buy gutterless mounts to mount a crossbar way up by the front doors because the hatch wouldn't open unless it was pushed up. Of course on this monster truck the box looks 2/3 scale!
Great point. I would hate for my lady to hold the gate while I try to get things out of the box. I do like point 92TripleBlack made as far as the cargo being on on side of the truck, and the frontal surface thing was a great point. I have a couple weeks till I go to Washington, hopefully I'll be able to get something going by then. :eek: Thanks for everyones suggestions. It gives me a few ideas to think about :goodjob:
 

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bootyologist24 said:
did you happen to have pics I can see. I actually prefer to do what you did if I had to. How did you plug the existing holes?

I didn't get the pics this weekend. It was a very busy and I wasn't home much. What do you want to see? The box on the vehicle, or a close up of the repositioned clamp?

Thanks
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ken_taylor said:
I didn't get the pics this weekend. It was a very busy and I wasn't home much. What do you want to see? The box on the vehicle, or a close up of the repositioned clamp?

Thanks
Ken
reposition clamp if you can. Thanks
 

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That I can do without a problem, I just didn't want to have to put the box way up there in 104 degree weather if I didn't have to :)

Ken
 

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bootyologist24 said:
reposition clamp if you can. Thanks

Here are the pics. The open holes are where the clamps used to be. The clamps are in their new positions. Notice the holes were drilled in the rib so they are indented the same as the old holes. This allows the box to sit the same with no undue stress.

Ken
 

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