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I’d check the valve and hoses going into the firewall first. Maybe it has failed again. If that isn’t the problem, take the glovebox out and shine a flashlight back to the blend door while turning the temp control all the way down and back up. If the. Lend door doesn’t move, that’s the

so I got the actuator off and the white plate. The white gear sticking out of the actuator falls out freely. The gears in the actuator are not missing teeth but the plate is missing that triangle detent. Could my actuator be good and it’s that’s triangle piece? Should I just replace them both while it is off?
 

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Yeah you don’t want to chance having to do it twice. That triangle piece helps keeps it from traveling too far. You can reach back and flip the door open and shut by hand now if you just need heat in a pinch. Fix it when it spring starts getting near if you don’t have a garage. Move it by hand in the meantime.
 

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Yeah you don’t want to chance having to do it twice. That triangle piece helps keeps it from traveling too far. You can reach back and flip the door open and shut by hand now if you just need heat in a pinch. Fix it when it spring starts getting near if you don’t have a garage. Move it by hand in the meantime.
How so I move it by hand? What does it feel like?? Which way would I feel to find it?
 

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In my 2010 Armada I'd been hearing the woodpecker in the dash for a long time, and then it finally went away and the driver side vents were stuck on heat all the time, regardless of what temp I set. Rear and passenger heat/AC continued to function normally. Reading this forum, I learned that this was the dreaded blend/air mix door actuator that's way up under the dash, and that a Nissan dealership will take the whole dash off to fix it and charge you upwards of $700. Well f that!

The key to understanding how to do it was this video:

But there are a couple of details I'd like to add that will help people out.

You're going to need this 7/32 ratchet wrench, which is 5.5mm equivalent.

I could only get some of the fasteners out with even my smallest socket wrench, and a regular open end wrench is way too much work in a small space especially when you're at risk of dropping and losing it in there.

You can make the process even easier than the video describes - in the first pic, unscrew the white box to the left, and disconnect the power plug at upper right. If you do this, you can definitely get your right hand all the way up there, and most of your left hand, which is critical to turning the wrench.

And just to add to what the guy in the video says about lever arms in there, the second pic is a still from a vid that I took when I shoved a camera up there. Note that there are two lever arms. Before you replace your actuator, reach up in there and feel/move these mechanisms with your hand so you can understand how they are linked and how they move. I would recommend putting the white actuator plate in first before the actuator, so you can get it in the socket and turn it a few times to be sure the lever arm pins are inserted into the plate correctly.

Then you can just put the actuator back in on top of that, and screw it down. It really wasn't too bad, although if you have huge hands it might be. I have long but medium thickness hands.

Hope this helps somebody.
I bought the same Kobalt set as you and I tried to put it on the near screw towards the glove box and the heat pipe is in the way and the 1/4 inch ratchet sits too high where the heat pipe is at how did you do it ? Also the farthest screw seems like a pain also how did you do thay ?

I bought the same Kobalt set as you and I tried to put it on the near screw towards the glove box and the heat pipe is in the way and the 1/4 inch ratchet sits too high where the heat pipe is at how did you do it ? Also the farthest screw seems like a pain also how did you do thay ?
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