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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
LED swap for Gauge cluster/Window & Misc. switches/Radio/AC

Alright guys, I am going to do my best.


This video link gives a good idea of how to (de)solder LEDs.
http://youtu.be/-SFAtT9BBQ8

Tools for soldering LEDs:
15w Soldering Iron
Solder
Soldering skills (I practiced on a old led push light and youtube)
Desoldering braid or Solder sucker (remove LCD screen from cluster)
Wet Sponge
Fine Tip Tweezers
LEDs:
Its best to order extras just in case you drop one or one burns out, here is the count I got:
50x 3528 LEDs (PLCC 2) will need for the cluster, front windows switch, rear sensor/tow mode switch.
10x 3528 LEDs (PLCC 4) will need for the radio screen.
50x 1206 LEDs will need for the radio buttons, vdc/rear sensor/pedal adjustment switch, A/C buttons.
8x 5 mm LEDs / 1/4 resistor 479 or higher ohms will need for A/C knobs and rear windows.

LEDs sizes:

Most LEDs have noticeable marking (missing corner or small dot) indicating the negative side of the LED, make sure you pay attention to the negative/positive position when removing the LEDs from the circuit boards.*

Difference between 3528 PLCC-2 LEDs and 3528 PLCC-4 LEDs is that PLCC-2 has two pad and PLCC-4 has four pads. Do a Google search, you'll see.

Radio button use 3216 (1206) LEDs. ***Note The radio buttons are actually 2012 (0804) LEDs but can be swapped with 3216 LEDs. With the 3216 it takes a little bit of work trying to solder from underneath the LED because the LED overlaps the solder pads. I would recommend the 3216 (1206) because they are easier to handle but if you think you could manage with the 2012 LEDs more power to you. Here is an example.



I would recommend ordering a supply that come like the bottom strip. Much easier to work with.


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Gauge cluster removal:

Tools:
8mm socket
Small flat tip screwdriver

***Take a photo of the gauge needles. This will help calibrate when you put everything back together.

Start with removing the two screws at the bottom of the lower steering panel.


And pull with quick firm tugs here.


Disconnect the switches either from the connection or clip from the panel.


Now for the top steering panel. First you will pop off the circle cover around the ignition.



And loosen the panel using quick pulls where the ignition is and where the dimmer switch is and work your way to the top of the panel around the gauge cluster. There are four clips on the panel above the gauges .


*Note: Disconnect the dimmer switch from the clips on the panel leaving it connected to the wires. If the dimmer is not hooked up the gauges will not light up. I freaked for about half an hour before I realized this.

Now unscrew the four 8mm screws that hold the gauge cluster to the dash (two on top/two on bottom). Becareful with the top two screws as they can fall off the socket and into the abyss. Now with all four screws off, disconnect the stubborn wire connection from the rear of the gauge cluster to the right.


Ok now the gauge cluster is removed from the dash and sitting in your work station. Unclip the black housing around the cluster.


Now carefully pinch and pull the middle of each gauge needle out of the cluster. Then carefully take off the gauge face (do not bend) and place in a safe place. Now you have something that looks like this.


Now unclip the white circuit board cover and you have this.


Now to select what LEDs you want to swap. You could do this by referencing from the white circuit board cover and/or you could use the gauge face as a map.

Reverse the process and you are done with the LED swap for the gauges.

***Notes: Periodically (after 2-3 LEDs) connect the cluster to see if all the LEDs are working properly.

Re-calibrating the needles: With the needles off, plug in the cluster, let it twitch and stop, then turn the ignition to ON, wait a second or two, then off...this zeros out the gauges and now try your best to line up the needle with the zeros / L / 8 / E / C. Turn the ignition to ON, if there are some needles off then just take those out and start over with the plug in/ON/OFF/zero out. This will take a few tries.

Here is a photo of mine:


PS I will add how to remove the LCD screen on the circuit board to get to the LEDs behind.

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Window Switches Removal:

Tool:
Small flat tip screwdriver

Place the flat tip around this point shown below and pop out the switches.



Now disconnect the three wire connections under the switches. Use the flat tip screwdriver to pop out the circuit board from the small clip. Use this technique for all the window switches. The front window switches has a circuit board but the rear window switches do not.



The rear window switch has a different set up. It has two prongs with an LED bulb fitted on top. All you have to do is purchase some 3mm or 5mm LED from Radio Shack. Bend the wires and remove the OEM LED from the rubber holder and cut off the 1/8 resistor from the OEM LED and solder it to the positive on the new LED (the positive for 3mm/5mm LED is the longer wire)and fit it back into the rubber holder and place it back on the prongs. But I removed the bulb and soldered a negative wire and a resistor to an LED. Not the way I'm gonna leave it but it will work for now.


To test out the LEDs turn the ignition to the ON position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Continued...

Radio Buttons and screen:

Tools:
Phillips screwdriver
T10 torx screwdriver
Small flat tip screwdriver
32x 1206 LEDs
8x 3528 PLCC4 LEDs
Optional: With the emergency brake engaged put the ignition in the ON position move the shifter to 1st/2nd gear, this gives you room to work when taking off the radio cover. Example:


Using a small flat tip screwdriver from the top of the radio cover, pry the cover off pulling the screwdriver towards you.



Disconnect the radio from either behind the circuit board or from inside the dash. Use the T10 screwdriver to unscrew the four screws on each corner connecting the radio to the cover.


Now firmly pinch and pull off the two knobs on the radio and unclip the white plastic piece behind it. then unscrew the numerous amount of screw from behind the circuit board.



Now remove the circuit board from the radio button cover and you should have this. Now you are free to do the LED swap to the radio buttons. These LEDs are 3216 (1206).


As for the radio screen.
The radio screen is held on by two screws. Unscrew these two and it will free up the LCD screen but is still connected by the ribbon wire. Release the black clip thats holding on the ribbon.


The metal cover housing the LCD screen/circuit board has four bent metal tab holding them in. Bend these back and take the circuit board and screen out.
You should have a white plastic piece with the circuit board on one side and the screen on the other. Be very careful with the ribbon wire that connects the screen and circuit board, it is very flimsy and only held together by silicon glue. I made a very little rip in the silicon glue and I had to replace my screen.

Here is where the LEDs sit. These are the 3528 PLCC-4 LEDs. In this photo I had already swapped the first LED.


After you are done reverse the process and put everything back together.

Here is photos of the LCD screen done.



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A/C controls:

tool:
small flat head screwdriver
T10 torx screwdriver
4 - 5mm LEDs
4 - 470 or higher ohm 1/4 resistors
3 - 1206 LEDs


With a firm pull remove the A/C knobs. Now the same way you remove the radio, open the radio bezel, disconnect the three wire connections and using the T10 torx screwdriver remove the 4 screws behind the A/C control unit.

Once you got the A/C unit out remove the two small rear A/C display by pulling the same way as the knobs. Now pop off the black thingy behind it (refer to arrow).


Now using the small flat head open up the unit by releasing the four clips.


There will be a torx screws holding the clear plastic thing that lights up the rear knobs, remove this one screw. This will allow you to get to the LED behind it.


Now pull off the faces of each of the three large dials, this come off pretty easy (this also could be done at the beginning when you remove the knobs on the dials, you could look inside and see the LEDs).


Now its easier to do one dial at a time for this next step. After the display is removed, the dials have three layer of plastic. Remove the first by pulling off the plastic thing. The second one is held onto by the four metal clips which you have to carefully bend back with the small flat head. The third is the last layer which is connected on the lower left by three prongs soldered to the circuit board, carefully bend back the plastic thing be sure not to break the connection. Here is a photo of all the layers and the positive/negative for the 5mm LEDs.


Now that you have access to the LEDs you are going to use the 1206 LEDs for the small LEDs on top and the 5mm LEDs shown on the bottom (becareful when removing the large LEDs because the black box that it is housed to is connect to circuit board by two very small little red things on the bottom, just gently wiggle it free).


And here it was I did for the clear plastic thing for the rear knobs because the LED needs to be really close to the circuit board so I had to improvise.


Periodically connect everything to see if the LEDs work.

Finished product:
 

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:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

I would suggest book a massage after the mod.... neck cramp will follow after soldering. :D

Sent from somewhere...
 

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wow thats a lot of work but its hella lot better now as i've never really liked the amber
 

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I always have issue with getting the needle back. :/ my honda accord needle is still off. Hahaha...ill give ur technique a try.:)

Sent from somewhere...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

I would suggest book a massage after the mod.... neck cramp will follow after soldering. :D

Sent from somewhere...
Yeah I had felt pretty sore after I was done and I also felt like I needed to get an eye exam from focusing so long.
 

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Outstanding, excellent job on the write up Sid. Well worth the effort in my opinion, on both counts.

Mods can we make this a sticky?

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the compliments guys. I tried to be as detailed as possible and I know pictures say a thousand words so I posted the ones that made the most sense.

Update: I decide to go withe blue and left the LCD screen white for contrast (this photo does not give it justice at all). I am extremely satisfied with the outcome. I still need to do the A/C knobs and a few switches. I will post the process once I am done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
All done!!! :D

A/C knobs (this photo does not show the knobs on the a/c dials):


And Misc. Switches:

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks pretty bad arse! U went all out with the LED. How long did it took?

Sent from somewhere...
Took a pretty good while...total time maybe a days worth of work. But that includes break apart everything just to check what I need, mess ups, troubleshooting, experimenting, and then actual soldering then changing my mind on the color. lol.

Im going to post picture how to take apart the switches, A/C dials, and what LEDs are needed.

Makes me feel like I have a new ride. lol
 

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Looks great, sidgarza!! :D Have you ever won the Ride of the Month? I ask, because, I know that your truck will make a great candidate... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Looks great, sidgarza!! :D Have you ever won the Ride of the Month? I ask, because, I know that your truck will make a great candidate... :D
Thanks. I won back in June or July of last year.

Nice job !!! Would you want to do another cluster for me ?:crikey:
Haha...to be honest it was pretty fun doing this mod and I became very good at it. Now with the experience, for a cluster swap it would probably take me around 30-45 minutes.
 

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Wow, loving that LED swap. Looks good.
 

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Awesome work sidgarza.

I'm not looking to swap LED but would like to fix one that's out.
In the picture is the one I need to fix. That's the 5mm LED correct?
Also do I need to put a resistor on this LED also?
Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Awesome work sidgarza.

I'm not looking to swap LED but would like to fix one that's out.
In the picture is the one I need to fix. That's the 5mm LED correct?
Also do I need to put a resistor on this LED also?
Thank you
Yeah that's the one you would swap out and yes you do need resistor with the 5mm LED. I burnt out a couple of LEDs without one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I used a 220 ohm 1/4 resistor.
 
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