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Hello from Minnesota

Pre-lurker here. Looking to pick up an Armada this summer and wanted to join the forum and see what I can learn. One initial question, how do Armadas handle rust? Is it something that is common on them? I am open to flying/driving to pick the right one up. I will be looking for a 2010-2014 and with bucket seats in the 2nd row. Super excited to have something that can tow and take the family on road trips. I love to road trip and the family does too, especially if they kids have their own seat :)

One question about bucket seats- is there any difference in the bucket seats vs just taking out the middle seat in the bench? I read I can add in the center console if I wanted.

Thanks and I am looking forward to contributing to a great site!
 

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Pre-lurker here. Looking to pick up an Armada this summer and wanted to join the forum and see what I can learn. One initial question, how do Armadas handle rust? Is it something that is common on them? I am open to flying/driving to pick the right one up. I will be looking for a 2010-2014 and with bucket seats in the 2nd row. Super excited to have something that can tow and take the family on road trips. I love to road trip and the family does too, especially if they kids have their own seat :)

One question about bucket seats- is there any difference in the bucket seats vs just taking out the middle seat in the bench? I read I can add in the center console if I wanted.

Thanks and I am looking forward to contributing to a great site!
WanderWill,

Welcome to the Forum. As for the rust, I purchased a 2008 QX56 with 180000 miles on it last year. It was originally purchased in NY and then spent the rest of its life slowly working its way west through the rust belt till i picked it up in Detroit and got it over to chicago. Amazingly enough, there is no rust it all on the body and very minimal on the underbody. That being said, mine may just be a lucky car, but others may comment on their trucks. From what I have seen, a common place they can rust is along the wheel arches where the fender trim is attached.

As to the second row seats, if you remove the center section you would still be missing the arm rests. I would assume they could possibly be added, with minor modifications. From my research, you will have a much harder time finding used armrest by themselves compared to the entire chairs.
 

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New to the forum and wanted to know what are b-pipes?

My 2005 LE has like 219,xxx miles on it, and still seems to work. It's got a bunch of rattles and a few problems, but fires up every day and drives me 70+ miles a day to work and back up here in New Hampshire. It's done well in summer and winter.

I get a little over 15 MPG combined, but it goes up a little once the weather warms up.

If you can do easy/medium jobs (oil changes, brakes, hoses/belts, wheel bearings, etc..) you'll be fine, and save a bunch of money.

I have the leaky manifolds, which are kind of annoying, but whatever. I already have the JBA catback exhaust, and will be hoping to get headers and b-pipes to finish the system off this summer.
 

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New to the forum and wanted to know what are b-pipes?
They are intermediate pipes between the manifolds and "cat-back" portion of the exhaust. They house the 2nd set of catalytic converters.

Several aftermarket companies sell "performance" versions. Ymmv.
 

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Well, my experience extends to online research and ownership of about two weeks. The car I bought is 8 years old and I have noticed the following:

This ain't gonna be a Toyota. I have a bunch of little electrical faults which I'm fixing one by one. I think the previoius owner never fixed anything that broke. My electric windows, clock spring, and more were glitchy or flat out broken. The dealership replaced rear calipers (not unexpected at this age in the northeast) before sale. The frame will need rust protection in the salt belt. Overall, they seem to be reliable in the important areas of engine and tranmission, but less than dependable in terms of electronic gadgets.
 

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I bought my 04 last fall. Had 160k kms. Figured not much can be wrong with that kinda mileage. I've owned tons of vehicles with way more miles and they didn't have nearly the problems this turd has.
In the last 8 months I've replaced both front struts(one spring was broken), front brakes(caliper slides were siezed and wore the pads into the rotor on the inside),camshaft postition sensor(truck would randomly die on the highway),the handle on the power tailgate quit working, the rear drivers door sometimes won't open from the outside, went to charge the ac yesterday and found a hole in the rear ac line just ahead of the back wheel(fixed that with steel epoxy lol), Both outter tie rods were totally worn, front sway bar bushings are pounded out of it, If i ever have to touch the rear suspension this things getting "stolen" the suspension and frame are very rusty, the sunroof whistles on the highway(gotta play with it to get it in a position where it's sealed), I've been chasing an evap code for months(pretty sure I got it figured by now), and now when I close the power tailgate it sometimes stops a foot before the latch. The 6 disc in dash changer was jammed full of discs from previous owner. It's in the trash. Oh and both exhaust manifolds leak, probably cracked. The body is starting to rust around the back wheels. It's soo loud when you floor it to pass someone! Not muffler dragin chug wagon loud but jet engine loud lol.

The drivetrain seems solid though, no problems with that so far.

Seems every time I fix one thing another handful of problems appear. Just need this thing to last another year then we're buying something new.

These things are probably great when new, but more options usually means more problems down the road. I'd never buy a 10 year old bmw or mercedes unless I had a lot of spare time to deal with the electrical problems that they will have.
 

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Looking at a 2005 with 145k. It will be used to tow a 24-6' trailer, 5-7,000# loaded.
I've been driving a Saab since the last century. Alto I'm a DIY, I'm planning to have Dealer pre-inspection, since Armada's
are unique even in the Nissan World. I've read the 2005-6 seem to have the best overall reliability in this vintage?
Any advise or pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks J:)
 

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Not sure about the best reliability. I think the dealer inspection is a good idea. Hope it works out for you. Only thoughts are if you are pulling it a bunch the 08 and up had larger brakes. No matter what I would be interested to what the dealer says.

Post up some pics.
 

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Make sure you have a thorough inspection of the suspension. So far, I've replaced the front lower control arms (ball joint was bad, but bolts were seized for the control arm, so I decided to just replace everything), front sway bar links, front sway bar bushings, front struts and pretty much everything dealing with the automatic leveling suspension (luckily, most of that was covered under warranty -- everything else I did myself). I still need to replace the rear lower control arms since the camber bolts on that are seized as well and I can't get the camber adjusted back there.

Another common issue is the exhaust manifolds tend to crack.

Overall, we're pretty happy with ours, but I would recommend seeing a reputable 3rd-party mechanic for your checks as the dealer we bought it from (a Buick dealer) were clueless and the local Nissan dealer somehow missed horrible ball joints (which would've led to those getting replaced under warranty as well). If it wasn't for our extended warranty (covered about 6K in repairs on a 2K warranty) and the fact I do most of my own work, we would be way upside down in the cost of the vehicle. But now I can properly maintain it (apparently whoever traded it into the dealer left a lot of things unrepaired, which time ended up making many worse -- like the automatic leveling suspension) and hopefully get many more years out of it.
 

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I agree that suspension and exhaust are most important things to look at. I would also recommend checking for leaks in power steering system and rear AC lines. Make sure you check that all buttons on steering wheel work which could indicate bad clock spring.

The front disc brakes were upgraded in mid 2006. Some early 2006 had the smaller ones.

Since you are towing, it will be important you get one with tow package. If it doesn't have the rear air suspension it doesn't have the tow package.

Good luck
 

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Firefighter1406, thanks for reaching out.
I have a boating friend has retired from NYC FDNY after 911 and the poor treatment.
J:)

re car I wrote about, dealer did not text the Vin # when I insisted upon a pre-purchase Nissan inspection.
This is the 2nd time in the past few weeks where Nissan inspection was not allowed.
I understand the Armada is a different beast than the other Nissans.
 

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Other have mentioned the AC Actuators clicking, I'd check that heat and AC come out of all vents properly.
There's one actuator in the dash that is a major pain to replace. Mine was stuck so that no heat would go to the driver, which was a pain in the winter.
They don't always click before dying.
 

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Update-

Just picked up a 2006 LE with 200k locally. The work trip fell through and it was time for a new vehicle.

The Armada is a great platform and I am really excited to be part of the community!

Two things I have noticed, searched for and found info on this site-

The cruise control will randomly stop working or rapidly blink “set” - evidence of a failing switch (but will sometimes work after turning off the engine and then re-starting.)

The parking brake does not work.

Otherwise, everything else seems to be in good working order.

Thank you again!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hey guys,
I’m looking at a 2011 Armada Platinum with 144k miles on it. Is there anything I need to look at specifically on this truck before I buy it? Are there any mechanical issues that I need to know about before jumping in? It will be my daily driver for work.
 

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We bought our 2012 platinum around a year ago, with right at 100k miles on it. It is used as my wife’s daily driver and family road tripper.
We have only had two issues come up during our year of ownership.

1: the exhaust tail pipe rusted apart at the flange where it meets the muffler. Had I caught it sooner it would have been an easy fix. However, the pipe came apart while we were on a spring break trip, and I was just going to fix it when we got home.
Because of where the pipe broke(which I found out later is a common place on both the armadas and the Titans), the leaking exhaust gas melted the air line for the passenger side air shock, which killed the auto level suspension for the remainder of our trip.

2: we’ve also had one wheel bearing go out. Luckily this happened close to home. We were only about 5 miles from home, and it started making noise. By the time we got home, the bearing was totally shot, and it was not drivable.
Luckily our armada had spent most of its previous time in the south, so the bearing replacement wasn’t too bad.

Also, fuel mileage isn’t the best. Our daily use, which is 40 miles round trip to work and back(36 miles highway/4 miles in town) gets us right around 16MPG.

Best suggestion I can give is to crawl under it and look for rust, and get maintenance records if possible. The longevity of a vehicle is largely dependent on how well it has been maintained.

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You don't say where you are located, but if the truck is coming from somewhere that it snows, check for rust. One common problem on these trucks is cracked exhaust manifolds. Typically happens around 100K miles or so, and when it happens, it isn't cheap or easy to repair. As with any used car, it's probably good to get a professional inspection. If anything shows up as being bad, can either have them fix it or use it as a negotiator to get the price down.

Dealer or private party?

Keith
 

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Also found a great deal on 2004. I’m not sure how the 04 are since they are a little older. It has 154k on it which seems pretty low for an 04. Any big flaws with these engines over the newer ones?
 
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