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Discussion Starter #161 (Edited)
This is how the fluids that I drained looked after 50,000 miles of service on both.

On left (3/4 full) is front differential fluid.
On right is (full) is the transfer case fluid.


Yesterday, I had some time and decided to try a new sealant that I bought. It is made in Britain and has awesome reviews. It has very limited stock in the US and often sells out fast when the company has it in stock. I ordered it to apply it to my car.

First, washed my car and applied my Total Finish Protection (TFP) polymer sealant. Hard job to apply on the whole car and buff it out. But I had to do it to prep the paint better.

I let car sit for like 20 minutes and then went to work with the TAC System's Moonlight coating. Amazing product, but I messed up on application and now some parts of my car look a bit smeared. But overall car has a deeper glossy shine to it. Looks rich. It truly looks nice. Mirror like.



The product is strange. The product is petroleum base and actuary smells like gas. Like the gas we actually put in our cars. Smells like it, feels like it and works like it. Somehow like gas mixed with oil to get a good consistency. I swear, I do not know how these people made this product to be friendly on painted surfaces. You can say it is like lotion for the car like we have lotion for our bodies. It is made in Britain. And not easily available here in the US. I put it on my yellow application pad and it soaks it. It is truly like gas and then I used that to spread it on my car.

The bottle has 250ml in it. Which is what? 8.5 oz or say 1/4 quart. The amount of product you get is small compared to the price you pay for it. $54.99 shipped. But some people claim it can do atleast 12 normal sedans like a Toyota Camry. Based on how I used it and what I think, I can use this bottle and do a car as big as my car like 7 to 10 times. This first time that I used it, I used too much and I messed up by letting it sit for too long before I buffed it out. But I will fix it.

I did my whole suv and I think I put or say used too much, but the outcome looks great, though I could have had a better result if I had followed instructions to the T! They claim this product will last for 9 months. But I doubt. I plan to redo the work again and make it better. But right now it still looks great.

I am just putting this out there if anybody is interested in trying something like this.

If you do it, I recommend you first polish your car with whatever polish of your choice before applying this sealant. The sealant definitely makes my car have a deeper glossy shine. It truly looks good. My suv is in my garage curing. The cure time is like 4 hours, but some recommend let your car sit for 12 to 24 hours before using it or letting any water touch the surface so the thing should bond well with your paint. Well, my car will sit in that garage and cure for atleast 3 days, since I have no use for the car now busy with work and I use my Maxima for work.

This is a good video of it on youtube...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEIbCotpYkQ
 

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Oh no. I would hate to be a Guinea pig and lift only one wheel to change fluid under my car. That would give me very wrong measurements.

I have 4 of those ramps. I put them infront all 4 tires, put my car on 4Lo and get up all 4 ramps and I am as level as can be and my garage is level. I did the job at night and always use all my led lights that I have and I have like 4 super bright led lights to help light up under my truck.

That is the only way I can fit comfortably under my truck. The only risk I have is that when draining or filling the front differential, I am completely under my truck and if those ramps were to give way, I may die for sure. But I doubt all 4 ramps would give way all at the same time.

So, when I am draining the front differential, I stay under the truck for as little as be. I open the filler hole. Open the drain plug and put my bucket and get out from under the truck. I go and do other things around and return like 15 minutes later. Go under the truck and close up the drain plug and then get out and get my things ready to fill it up. Then go back and fill it up until it starts coming out of filler hole. Lock it up, clean area with WD40 and that is done and get out of there.

For the transfer case, I am never under my suv completely. I am just halfway under my car and basically take my time on any especially as I love to document things and I am always using my phone to take many pictures of things I like to document. Then I select the pictures I would like to share and post them.

I think this my build thread would hopefully be helpful to some people who may want to tackle this.

The only Guinea pig thing I do not mind is my larger filter. The car now has 2,500 miles since oil change with larger filter. Car is going strong. So, the larger filter is working fine. I plan to change it at 5,000 miles, but I may change it any time soon now that on bobistheoilguy com, I am learning about sales of oil that makes me get oil for dirt cheap. So, I am thinking I may be changing my oil every 3,000 miles because I am buying the oil at half or way less than half normal price.
Huh. Then I have no clue as to why you took out more than you put in. Did you perform the last fill or did you have it done?
 

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Discussion Starter #164
Huh. Then I have no clue as to why you took out more than you put in. Did you perform the last fill or did you have it done?
I performed the last fill. it is on page 4 of this thread. Here is the link...

https://www.clubarmada.com/forums/18-infiniti-qx56/56441-major-maintenance-2012-infiniti-qx56-4.html

I think I see what may have happened. This bottle of Rock Oil is actually more than 1 quart. I used one bottle and just a little bit of the other bottle. This oil is made and labeled in Britain in litres. The bottle is labeled in litres and has a measurement of quarts on it. But this is British oil for landrovers and other mainly British vehicles and the main measurement on the bottle is in litres. So, maybe I did put close to that amount.
 

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Discussion Starter #165
Was the fluid that you removed hot? If so it will have expanded somewhat.
It was not hot since all I did was turn on the car, back up. Put all 4 ramps and got my car in 4Lo and got up all 4 ramps. then went to work to drain the fluids. The fluid was not hot at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #166 (Edited)
After 3 months and only 2,750 miles, I decided I wanted another oil change on my QX. I am often on bobistheoilguy and take advantage of some deals that some guys share on there about oil discounts. Like buying these 2 jugs of Penzoil Ultra Platinum 10w30 full synthetic for $34 shipped, after the $20 mail in rebate from penzoil. That is each 5 quart jug cost me only $17.

This is my first time going with 10w30. I am going with it because it is recommended in hot areas like Mexico and I live in Texas which is very hot now.

I am going with 10w30 to try it out and see. And I plan to run it for 5,000 miles.

Still using a larger filter. The last one worked flawlessly.





 

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Discussion Starter #167
After only 3 months and only 1,800 miles on my last oil, I am changing my oil again because I am leaving on a 15 days road trip in less than 2 weeks and I wanted to try the new shell synthetic for trucks, I also wanted new fluid and because I wanted to use BG 44K in my car.

So, I did my oil change this time with a blend of 5 quarts of 0W20 and 2 quarts of 5W30. I want to try this mixture and see. Also, I am still using the large Porche filter on my car. This oil is oart of a deal that I bought based on sales that I saw on bobistheoilguy.com. 5 quarts of 0w20 plus the $17.00 filter all cost me $12.00, after rebates. So, I paid only $12.00 for 5 quarts of full synthetic shell truck oil plus the Porche filter that alone costs $17.00. But the total cost to me was only $12.00. That is why I can change my oil any time I feel as to.

I also bought 2 cans of BG 44K to put in my gas tank together for a strong dose and use it like that. Let's see what happens.

Current mileage: 137,300



 

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Discussion Starter #168 (Edited)
After my road trip, I am back in town and my QX still has this slight hesitation that occurs every now and then. It happens only at take off. When I stop at a stop sign or traffic light or about to take off from cranking my car.

Scenarios:
Car is at a complete stop on say a flat road. Foot on brakes. As I take my foot off the brakes, I expect my car to start rolling forward slowly but if it is one of those times that it wants to act up, you will feel it hesitate for a second and jerk all of a sudden to start moving. Or if I get off the brakes and get to the accelerator fast enough and slightly step on it to slowly take off, I will feel the car hesitate before surging forward.

I took it in for diagnosis. At the dealership, I told them to check for any other problems and fix it for me if my warranty can cover it.

They called me the next day and told me my bill would be $2,308.

To fix my problem, they say the services they recommend are;
  • Clean throttle body of carbon build up and perform air relearn.
  • Update ECM software since there is an update available that my car needs.
Then since I have extended warranty, they inspected my car for anything that may need to be fixed that my warranty will pay for. They came up with these;
  • Replace front left wheel bearing. (They had previously replaced all wheel bearings on all other 3 wheels. Replacing this one now means they have replaced all 4 wheel bearings on my car). Extended warranty paid for this service.
  • Replaced my 2 engine mounts. It has truly improved the way it feels when I go on speed bumps and pot holes now. Warranty paid for this also. Expensive!
 

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Discussion Starter #169 (Edited)
Here are pics of my receipt from the dealership showing all what was fixed and the services I declined.

My bill was $2,308.90.

I had to pay $351. 28.

My Extended Warranty paid $1,957.62.

As of today, my extended warranty has paid about $20,000 in repairs on my QX in just over 3.5 years of ownership. My extended warranty expires in about 1,200 miles.

One service they requested was to replace my transfer case fluid which I had replaced about 8,000 miles ago. Well, I declined them from charging me $183 for that service. I just bought 2 quarts of the same Land Rover transfer case fluid I bought from ebay for about $70 shipped. I will be doing the service any day from now.

But after I got my car, I still have that same hesitation. I called the dealership and they say I should bring my suv back. I will take it back some day next week when I am off.




 

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I appreciate your documentation of your QX.

I am doing all the service on my sister's 2013 QX56 and used much of your information.

I also was going to change the T-case fluid until I found out what the price of the Nissan fluid cost at my dealership, $108 per qt. With your help, I am also going to use one of your listed suggestions for that fluid drain and fill.

On your last post, I am curious how they took a sample of your T-case fluid.....especially since they would have had to remove a drain plug........I look forward to see what the fluid actually looks like when you change it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
I appreciate your documentation of your QX.

I also was going to change the T-case fluid until I found out what the price of the Nissan fluid cost at my dealership, $108 per qt. With your help, I am also going to use one of your listed suggestions for that fluid drain and fill.

On your last post, I am curious how they took a sample of your T-case fluid.....especially since they would have had to remove a drain plug........I look forward to see what the fluid actually looks like when you change it again.
Thanks for your compliment. I have learned a lot from other forums and decided to share too since I know it will help some people. That is what is good about forums. If people were not sharing pictures or videos on how to do things, then forums would be way less than half as helpful as they are today.

So, if you want to help the forum, if you do some maintenance or a new mod and have pictures to show and wish to share, feel free. That is how many people gain most of their information from the forums.

Yes, the Nissan dealership fluid for the transfer case is very expensive. I searched for alternatives then I found this used a lot by British cars like Range Rover. It is made in Britain. It is a good fluid for the transfer case.

The one i have in there now has about 8,000 miles of usage and some was some hardcore offraoding in Colorado 2 months ago.

How did they test the fluid? I don't know, but knowing it is a dealership, they may have drained some old fluid to see. Then I refused service of $183 for them to change it for me. So, they may have topped off what they drained. Or maybe they did not and my transfer case fluid is low. I will not know until I do the fluid change soon. And I will see how dark it is. After 8,000 miles of use, I am sure any fluid would be dark.

But this transfer case is a fluid that mostly only people who care about their car change it. Some people never change this for the life of their car and I don't know what happens even to them. Probably nothing.

There are so many things that we on the forum get picky about replacing or changing while some people who do not get on forums probably drive their cars like that forever and nothing happens to their cars. Like changing the brake fluid. So many people never ever bleed the brake fluids, but their cars still last and brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #172
I got my SUV from the dealership last week but the hesitation still occurs every now and then. Well, I called them that I will bring it back.

Then I tried to do my transfer case fluid and realized my SUV all of a sudden is leaking oil profusely. I took it to the dealership immediately. They saw what I was talking about and said they will contact my warranty company about the leakage. They did and my warranty suspected fraud. So, they sent out an inspector to come confirm that is indeed what is happening. The dealership said he came and took a lot of pictures. Saw the leak, put on gloves and felt around the seal where it was leaking profusely. He was satisfied and so approved the warranty repairs to fix the leak. Which was just to take the oil pan apart and reseal it. Cost only $255 for my warranty company to pay for.

The dealership had to do an oil change too that the warranty paid for buy they refused to pay for a new filter. So, dealership told me I had to pay for that plus pay my $100 deductible. So, my cost was $109.

I got my SUV back and immediately hit the road for a weekend trip.
 

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Discussion Starter #173



I have bought a couple fluids to do some work on my QX any day I have time.
I bought Amsoil dot 3&4 brake fluid, which is a dot 5.1 fluid to bleed my brakes. Then bought fluid for front differential and 2 quarts if oil for the transfer case. I will do the work when I have time. Any time soon.
Too bad my warranty runs out in about 800 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
On your last post, I am curious how they took a sample of your T-case fluid.....especially since they would have had to remove a drain plug.
I have an update to this your question. You were very smart to ask this question and I have a shocking answer now.

The dealership did drain all the fluid from my transfer case and put all brand new fluid. So, the dealership did a transfer case fluid change and guess what? They did jot tell me they did that.

The dealership also did change my front differential fluid. And they dis jot tell me.

All they told me was I needed a transfer fluid change and a front differential fluid change and they asked me if I would pay for it. I refused.

Fast forward to yesterday when I did my transfer case fluid and was shocked I drained new fluid and it was red! That is not the fluid I used the last time. The fluid I used the last time was clear like in the pics below. I went ahead and changed the transfer case fluid again.

Then I went to do the front differential and decided to check the filler hole and saw brand new fluid coming up. I just closed it up and decided not to do the front differential.

Look at the drained fluid compared to the new fluid. The drained fluid was red and smelled brand new. I have drained my fluid before and know how used fluid and new fluid smell.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
145,300: Oil pan resealed to stop massive oil leak at seals. Transfer case fluid change done.


 

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Discussion Starter #176
145,400: Did brake flush. Our cars require dot 3 brake fluid, BUT, I used Amsoil dot 5.1 brake fluid to do the flush. Bleed pattern: Front Right - Front LEFT - Rear LEFT - Rear RIGHT. God, the 2 rears would just flow nonstop when you step on the brakes and opened the bleeder valve. It made me run out of fluid and I had to go to Walmart and buy a small bottle of Prestone dot 4 to come and top it off when I was fully done. Car brakes better now. I think I got rid of that air in the system. So, my brake system now has a mixture of dot 3, dot 4 and about 80% is dot 5.1.




 

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Thank you for the great documentation - your phone takes great pics. What phone did you use for those? I also do all my own work - a bit more than you do - and always find that good pictures (like yours) answer my questions instantly. It amazes me how the (stealer)dealerships still operate. Good thing you had the warranty though - pretty bad advertising for that year. Some of the things you experienced are a bit odd - but what's there is done.

FYI the way oil "looks" is not actually important. It used to be, but today just is normal. Many oil company sites explain why that is so. You are perfectly fine at 7000 mile intervals today using synthetic oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Thank you for the great documentation - your phone takes great pics. What phone did you use for those? I also do all my own work - a bit more than you do - and always find that good pictures (like yours) answer my questions instantly. It amazes me how the (stealer)dealerships still operate. Good thing you had the warranty though - pretty bad advertising for that year. Some of the things you experienced are a bit odd - but what's there is done.

FYI the way oil "looks" is not actually important. It used to be, but today just is normal. Many oil company sites explain why that is so. You are perfectly fine at 7000 mile intervals today using synthetic oil.
Thanks for the compliment. My phone is an old Samsung S8+. I have had it for way more than 2 years now. Almost 3 years now. I am, truly impressed at the pictures it takes. I was going to go buy the newest Samsung in the market now and wanted the top of the line, when they told me it was like over $1,200 and that I could finance it for 3 years. I was shocked at the price of new phones, so I decided no way. I will keep this old phone for atleast another year or more or until it really stops working.

LOL, as for the comment about dealerships still being open, the reason they have to be more expensive these days is because the number of DIYers have greatly increased, so dealerships do not get a lot of business these days. That is why for them to break even, they seem to be a lot expensive to the people who have to go there. Plus, cars are getting more complicated to work on these days, so dealerships are happy that we can only go to them for some things.
 

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Thank you for the great documentation - your phone takes great pics. What phone did you use for those? I also do all my own work - a bit more than you do - and always find that good pictures (like yours) answer my questions instantly. It amazes me how the (stealer)dealerships still operate. Good thing you had the warranty though - pretty bad advertising for that year. Some of the things you experienced are a bit odd - but what's there is done.
 
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