[wisconsin]

hey thanks for the great reply.

A big relief that it's probably an issue with that particular car. Sounds like I should continue the hunt and keep test driving them.

Is there an easy way to find out if the air compressor went out?

 

[n8dogg]

hey thanks for the great reply.

A big relief that it's probably an issue with that particular car. Sounds like I should continue the hunt and keep test driving them.

You're welcome Ya, the Armada is a great vehicle over all.

Is there an easy way to find out if the air compressor went out?

Most obvious is if the rear end is sagging. The springs are intentionally soft, relying on the air shocks to keep the ride level. The Armada will usually sag under it's own weight on those soft springs if the air system isn't working. You can confirm also by piling on extra weight with either a teenager and his buddies, car dealer sales staff, a trailer, etc. The compressor should kick on in about 30 seconds or so to level out from the extra weight. The compressor is located underneath, behind the drivers side wheel well. You can hear it when it turns on.

 

[Kissfan79]

Hello everyone.....Armada newbie here. We are in the market for a 2015 Armada Platinum and have a question or two. First off....what RPM's should one be running at highway speeds? We test drove one yesterday and it felt like it should have upshifted one more time. I tried to count the shifts as I accelerated but the last one was really smooth and barely a shift. At about 63MPH, it was running about 2100-2200 RPM's on the highway on fairly level road. That seems a bit high. That is about what my Ford Excursion runs with 4.30:1 gears. Also.....for a used 2015 Platinum (preferably 4x4) are there any well known pitfalls I should be on the look out for? The one we test drove did have an electric brake controller installed which tells me they more than likely the previous owner did a lot of towing. Would ya'll be concerned about buying a used one that was used for towing on the regular? Thanks in advance for any and all information ya'll can share. Have a great day!

Jim

 

[marctronixx]

RPMS will vary depending on a number of factors so no one size fits all on that. what may be happening is the cars ECM needs to be reset to reset the shift points. this thread can give you the steps to do that - involves pedal and push button sequences. this would reset the shift points and even give you some low end torque back.

Resetting the ECU

Hey all, I've been reading about the timing advance and ECU resets over at clubtitan.org. Some pretty interesting stuff! SCR38 can I'm sure answer any tech questions (as he's the guru here) but I wanted to post these procedures for our site as well. Apparently what happens is that the ECU in...

www.clubarmada.com

you are welcome to peruse this thread for more info on what others have asked but id prefer to have a car that did more highway driving than city driving.

this car is no different than any other car in terms of thigns to look for. if you have a reputable mechanic, have them smoke it over before you sign your name on the dotted line. use carfax, get the vin and go to a local nissan shop and have them run it to see if any tsbs or maintenance records can be seen. look for rust, cats. o2 sensors, check for codes at the obd port.

 

[Ltz1911]

Hi everyone thanks for the add im currently looking to get a armada 4x4 2009-2012 for size and 3rd row I use to be a Chevy guy and would love to get a Tahoe but after last one I had im done with them from lifter problems, AFM bul**** and other stuff so here iam ....I been doing some reading on them and seen on Car Complaints the 2011 is rated higher then most others between 2009-2012 anyone have a 2011 and can give me more input?

 

[n8dogg]

...I been doing some reading on them and seen on Car Complaints the 2011 is rated higher then most others between 2009-2012 anyone have a 2011 and can give me more input?

As far as I know, there is no significant difference in the 2011 from the other similar production years 09-12... maybe changes to some tech upgrades i.e. sound, navigation? Hopefully someone else will chime in here.

 

[Kenmode]

Good afternoon everyone ! Thank you for having me , this is a great site and look forward to learning and interacting with you. Bear with me please...first post. Just bought a 2012 Armada SV. Is there anything that I should be aware off ? Does this year have any problems that are common for the year , or just in general ? Thank you very much for any suggestions , recommendations or help. Have a blessed evening and Thank You !

 

[MusicCityKid]

Hi everybody, my wife and have said goodbye to the impractical and sporty cars in our lives....and are about to take the full-size Armada journey. Kids and, well, life in general seem to be ushering us in this direction. Was just curious what, if any, advice some of you might have. We're narrowing down to a 2017-18 Platinum trim with 2nd row buckets. Neither of us have ever owned a Nissan. Top of mind for us is reliability. I'm curious if the Nissan CPO is actually worth the extra money on the used market or if its just a marketing ploy. Doesn't seem like it covers much more than powertrain. Which I wasn't expecting to be much of an issue anyway.

Anywho, wide open to advice on options, trim levels, year to avoid etc etc.

Looking forward to getting to know this community!

Thanks in advance,
James

 

[rsoto80]

Not sure about the newer ones, mine is an 04 but I tell people this when they consider an armada and that is don’t get one unless youre mechanical savvy. These trucks can be problematic but they are fairly simple to fix and once you get them corrected they will run damn good.

 

[tbird71]

Fount a 2010 Platinum, Black/Black body and Interior real nice, new tires looks great
what should I look for before buying? I'm gonna ask them to put on a lift to inspect
everything I can see under there, it runs good, and is priced right (4995) Brakes, trans, diff, engine leaks if any major found I will walk. Anything else I should be aware of?
BTW I have an 07 Titan I bot new and know these motors pretty good. Thanks here's the 2010

 

[n8dogg]

Looks good! But as with any car things wear out. Here's some of the common ones that we all pretty much have to address at some point:

Rear air shocks. When worn out, it floats all over the place generating a whole lot of complaints here. Some times the compressor or the air lines themselves develop issues causing more extensive repairs. Also, if it's been exposed to any salty environments, suspension repairs can be a pain as parts seize up.

Exhaust manifold cracks. You have a Titan so perhaps you've dealt with this already.

Another possible thing to be aware of (also shared with the Titan as well)...the trans cooler is in the radiator. Sometimes it cracks and the fluids mix. Bad for transmission!

There's plenty of threads here addressing all these issues.

 

[Mancini789]

Hello Club.Armada Family...I will be looking to join this wonderful forum and community in making my first purchase. I've always been a major fan of the 2011 Nissan Armada and I found an affordable one here in my area. I've been looking at a couple vehicles and reading about them but before I made a big decision I wanted to check with the community if there is anything that I should look into before committing.

Some things that I will be looking out for during my inspection today:

• coolant or oil leaks
• noises in the engine
• check transmission for slips jolts etc
• verify all electrics / features / lights

The asking price is $11,900 and it has 104,000 miles with a Salvage Title.

If you guys have any suggestions on what to check.
Looking forward to joining this family, thanks

 

[Rock_Lee]

I would get information about why it has a salvage title, what was all damaged and get receipt for the repairs. From the pictures it looks like the dash on the passenger side looks like it has been stitched back together, so maybe airbags have been deployed. If it was for my family I wouldn’t get a car if the safety restraint system is compromised.

 

[Wnasr58]

Hi guys
I'm brand new to the forum , I'm searching for a good used armada , i found myself stuck between 2 cars : 2009 Armada LE 4wd and a 2009 infinity Qx 56
They both have almost the same mileage and conditions ( remains to check thouroughly at a professional workshop)
The catch is , mechanically they should be the same , but most of the sites like Edmund and others always give a 300 k miles as an engine life for the armada and 200 k miles for the infinity?? Though they are the same in everything

Please advice me which one is more reliable , endurance and sturdy that could last longer with me ( assuming that both have the same conditions)

Thanks in advance

 

[kevinnj]

Hi - I had been researching/shopping new SUV's for a while now and was initially going with a different brand until I came across the Armada. Got to hand it to Nissan, I'm a car guy, that loves HP, but these definitely fly under the radar.
I'm getting away from a Jeep that I've owned for almost 10 years. Nothing wrong with it, just need more room. Looking at the 2nd generation (I think) in the 2019-2020 timeframe. Trying to stay lower mileage (less than 40,000), but most of the used ones are 60,000 plus.

To that end, I did find a 2018 platinum that only has 37000. I'm hesitant though because it's already had 2 quick owners and the dealership told me that the rear compressor isn't working and they won't be fixing (some story they can't get, but it's not a Nissan dealer, so who knows). Researched a little and it could be more than just a compressor, so part of me wants to stay away.

The other option is a 2020 platinum, with about 38000. This has been in dealer inventory, since August. They tried to put it to auction in November, but they are still trying to sell it. I think it's priced fair for what it is, but raises questions about why it's not selling.

Can I ask for any thoughts/red flags on these?

These forums are great for exchanging ideas and getting to know a new community. If I go through with the purchase I look forward to keeping this one a long time, and being active here.

 

[marctronixx]

welcome! its good to see a potential owner stop by.

any car is only as good as its prior owner(s) so doing the usual things like doing a vin search will yield you more info.

nissan make a great suv , with many people having these models well into the 200K mile territory.

there are some experiences in this thread if you want to find out what others have been asking about used ones. none of us would know why a car is not selling -- does not mean theres anything wrong with the car, it could be the lot is asking more than what its worth in your area.

if you are a "car guy", you should know its best to get the car and take it to a mechanic you trust/has experience in imports, and let them run their scan tool, and smoke it over. if you find any codes, come back here and post them and get more specific answers. otherwise all we can do is speculate on which car is better.

 

[kevinnj]

welcome! its good to see a potential owner stop by.

any car is only as good as its prior owner(s) so doing the usual things like doing a vin search will yield you more info.

nissan make a great suv , with many people having these models well into the 200K mile territory.

there are some experiences in this thread if you want to find out what others have been asking about used ones. none of us would know why a car is not selling -- does not mean theres anything wrong with the car, it could be the lot is asking more than what its worth in your area.

if you are a "car guy", you should know its best to get the car and take it to a mechanic you trust/has experience in imports, and let them run their scan tool, and smoke it over. if you find any codes, come back here and post them and get more specific answers. otherwise all we can do is speculate on which car is better.

Thanks - I guess one of the "joys" of not really being close/knowing what mechanic to go to when buying a vehicle at a distance. Find a mechanic to take a look at a 2018. I knew the rear suspension compressor had to be replaced (I don't think the dealership selling it has much faith in it being sold because they are waiting to replace "Part on Backorder"). Coordinated with the dealership to drop it off to a local mechanic yesterday that I found through searching and reading reviews (mistake #1). Mechanic calls me, says he finished and they picked it up. He said a couple of codes. I ask what ones. He said nothing major - Not helpful at all. I knew the suspension would throw a fault. Mechanic said other ones are ok. I wouldn't think faults are ok? Without the codes can this make sense to anyone?

Overall he said in good shape. No rust, will need new brakes and rear tires soon, and the suspension has to be repaired to see if anything is leaking.

This raised more questions than it answered.

I was back and forth this weekend with sticking used, or going new. I think for me right now a good used one makes sense. Will be going from a Jeep Wrangler with 100,000 miles on it, that I can only sit 5, when sometimes I need to sit 6 or 7. This would come with the used car dealership 60 day 2000 mile warranty which has to include:
Covered items consist of:
■ The Engine – All internal lubricated parts, timing
chains, gears and cover, timing belt, pulleys and
cover, oil pump and gears, water pump, valve covers,
oil pan, manifolds, flywheel, harmonic balancer,
engine mounts, seals and gaskets, and turbo-charger
housing. (Housing, engine block and cylinder heads
are covered only if they are damaged by the failure
of an internal lubricated part.)
■ Transmission Automatic/Transfer Case – All
internal lubricated parts, torque converter, vacuum
modulator, transmission mounts, seals and gaskets.
■ Transmission Manual/Transfer Case – All
internal lubricated parts, transmission mounts,
seals and gaskets (excluding a manual clutch),
pressure plate, throw-out bearings, clutch master
or slave cylinders.
■ Front-Wheel Drive – All internal lubricated
parts, axle shafts, constant velocity joints, front
hub bearings, seals and gaskets.
■ Rear-Wheel Drive – All internal lubricated parts,
propeller shafts, supports and U-joints, axle shafts
and bearings, seals and gaskets.

Would have been nice to know what the faults actually were so I would know what I'd be getting into.

 

[BenFrank76]

I’m looking to purchase a Nissan armada and a cheap travel trailer to tow the family around the west, I’m from CO. Looking at a 1st gen Nissan Armada (2014/2015), with under 70k miles for around 20k-22k. They are priced so cheap for the value that I feel like I’m missing something and the consumer report subscription I have doesn’t have any info about these years. What’s everyone’s thoughts on reliability at that age/mileage? Trust it driving through mountains, desert, ect.. without breaking down with the little ones in the car? Looking for some reassurance of anything to look out for when buying. Thanks!

 

[Tanks]

I'll be the first to say it. Pre owned cars are only as good as the previous owner. If you find one you like, have it inspected.
These are great SUVs and are solid but can have issues. Exhaust header cracks which can cause failed emissions and be costly repairs. 4WD is solid but does not have locking diff like the Sequoia.
13-15 are the best years to get for the 1st Gen. As most of the previous issues were worked out. These do not offer the latest Bluetooth/Audio, so streaming music from your phone won't work. Need to do a stero upgrade and they have limited options.

We love ours and wouldn't trade it for many other vehicles out there. The newer generation comes with modern tech, maybe worth considering. Great value SUV with towing capabilities that will impress. Happy hunting. Took me a long time to find a well cared for one.

 

[GotGrit]

As most say, it's going to be about maintenance (including the previous owner). I purchased my 2006 SE 4x4 for 5500 with 150k miles on it in 2018. I now have 174k miles, have a good amount of fun upgrades and this rig has been really reliable.


Within a few weeks I encountered some issues (I had a dishonest seller and these items didnt show themselves initially, i couldn't see them, the light wasn't on, etc.) :
1. Clock spring failure (no driver air bag)
2. Brake failure (replaced all areas based on learnings in this forum and zero problems since)
2a. Replaced brake booster
2b. Replaced front hubs (speed sensors are built in)
2c. Full brake job all around.
3. Installed lower motor mount bolts (yes, they were missing LOL)
4. General tune up / clean throttle body, replaced plugs, changed oil/filter, changed air filter.
5. changed cabin filter.

Problems I've encountered and resolved since:
1. front CV boots torn
2. Power steering leaks (at reservoir)
3. inner and outer tie rod ends
4. climate control actuator issues.
5. starter relay failure
6. starter failure.
7. squeaky hood

Current problem I have
Oil leak (appears to be oil pan gasket which I'll tackle soon)