[Djshields]

Hey everyone, lurked a while, joined and bought a 2004 Armada with 114k mile on it for 3800. I bought it to tow a travel trailer - 7500lbs. Here are the known issues:

White/grey smoke on startup - smells like oil. No sweet smell. No oil/coolant leaks. No oil in coolant overflow.
Oil gauge pegged on high as soon as ignition is turned on, stays pegged on high when motor running.
Brakes need replaced.

What I ordered to fix the issues and do a DIY tuneup:
Valve covers, gaskets
PCV valves
Oil Pressure Switch
Oil Pump (just in case)
Oil - Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil
Oil Filter - FRAM Ultra Synthetic
HD Gear Oil for front and rear - Lucas Oil HD 80W90
Transmission fluid, seal and filter - OEM Matic S
Brake pads and rotors - Callahan CDS02514 REAR Slotted 319.6mm D/S 6 Lug [2] Rotors + Ceramic Brake Pads, Detroit Axle - Pair (2) Front Drilled and Slotted Disc Brake Kit Rotors w/Ceramic Pads
Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Control
Ignition Coils
MAF Sensor
Autolite Iridium XP Spark Plugs
Tires: Winterforce LTLT265 /70 R18 124R E1 BSW because I will be towing it to Mt Hood for snowboarding competitions all winter long.

What I have:
Equali-i-zer 10k lb Sway Control Hitch

What I am still researching:
Off season tires and rims
Cold air intake? Installed one on my WRX and made a difference.
After market anti-sway bar (Eibach)?
Upgrade suspension - especially the rear?

Any thoughts or ideas on what I may be missing?

Thanks everyone for all of your dedication to the scene!

Dj

 

[toname]

Hey everyone, lurked a while, joined and bought a 2004 Armada with 114k mile on it for 3800. I bought it to tow a travel trailer - 7500lbs. Here are the known issues:

White/grey smoke on startup - smells like oil. No sweet smell. No oil/coolant leaks. No oil in coolant overflow.
Oil gauge pegged on high as soon as ignition is turned on, stays pegged on high when motor running.
Brakes need replaced.

What I ordered to fix the issues and do a DIY tuneup:
Valve covers, gaskets
PCV valves
Oil Pressure Switch
Oil Pump (just in case)
Oil - Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil
Oil Filter - FRAM Ultra Synthetic
HD Gear Oil for front and rear - Lucas Oil HD 80W90
Transmission fluid, seal and filter - OEM Matic S
Brake pads and rotors - Callahan CDS02514 REAR Slotted 319.6mm D/S 6 Lug [2] Rotors + Ceramic Brake Pads, Detroit Axle - Pair (2) Front Drilled and Slotted Disc Brake Kit Rotors w/Ceramic Pads
Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Control
Ignition Coils
MAF Sensor
Autolite Iridium XP Spark Plugs
Tires: Winterforce LTLT265 /70 R18 124R E1 BSW because I will be towing it to Mt Hood for snowboarding competitions all winter long.

What I have:
Equali-i-zer 10k lb Sway Control Hitch

What I am still researching:
Off season tires and rims
Cold air intake? Installed one on my WRX and made a difference.
After market anti-sway bar (Eibach)?
Upgrade suspension - especially the rear?

Any thoughts or ideas on what I may be missing?

Thanks everyone for all of your dedication to the scene!

Dj

Since you are at 114K ( which good for a beast that old) you go ahead a do the 100K recommended maintenance( hoses, drive belts, coolant change, sparkplugs [already on your list] and idle pulley.

 

[marctronixx]

you oil gauge sensor/wiring could be faulty which may explain the high read on startup...

 

[Steamguy]

Be aware that the oil gauge on the earlier models is a true oil pressure gauge, not just a glorified idiot light, as on later models. Going high on key-on usually means a wiring fault or a bad sensor. Sensor is quickest to change and often the culprit.

Also, the earlier engines are VERY fussy about what you use for an oil filter - your FRAM filter will not work. Been there, done that. You need one of two known-and-proven-good filters: NAPA Gold (WIX) or the Nissan OEM. Anything else will cause low oil pressure at idle, along with other nasties which will decrease engine life, typically the anti-drainback valve is not up to the task.

 

[Daduls]

Valve covers should come with the pcv valves

 

[Djshields]

Be aware that the oil gauge on the earlier models is a true oil pressure gauge, not just a glorified idiot light, as on later models. Going high on key-on usually means a wiring fault or a bad sensor. Sensor is quickest to change and often the culprit.

Also, the earlier engines are VERY fussy about what you use for an oil filter - your FRAM filter will not work. Been there, done that. You need one of two known-and-proven-good filters: NAPA Gold (WIX) or the Nissan OEM. Anything else will cause low oil pressure at idle, along with other nasties which will decrease engine life, typically the anti-drainback valve is not up to the task.

Thanks Steamguy - NAPA Gold purchased yesterday and FRAM returned. That is one thing I did not catch in my lurking. Thanks for that!

 

[randomlag]

FYI The oil sensor is a bitch to change. I just sold my 2004 (152k) and it had a bad oil sender. Everything else was super great - but did replace all the calipers and rotors way back. Had the occasional glitch where all the lights come on (switched all the relays, but still did it once in a while). Turning off and restarting almost always fixed. Was going to change sender before selling, but way too hard to access and just left it alone after spending too much time. There's a water line in the way, hard to remove, had to be blocked to stop draining. Sending is super hard to get the wiring plug off. So I said forget it. I just couldn't get good access and did no want to break it trying to get it off. Maybe on a lift all the way up might be easier. I have a scissor thing with only about 3ft clearance.

White-gray smoke if not from just being outside and condensation, I'd check out carefully - esp if you detect oil. Could be trans. I never had that, but always parked inside.

Engine used 1 qt per 7500 miles. Ran mobil-1 5W30. Oil filters Wix and Baldwin. Have 2013 QX56 now and used Mobil-1 filter. Rides slightly better (less rumble), easier steering, power brakes tad less effort (no complaints prior though). Backup screen sucks though. Still same resolution as 2004..2009 but has side view. Very poor. My other car is super crisp hires making it glaringly bad

 

[gtech215]

New belt, pulley, and tensioner is an easy fix that will make your 'Mada happy. Cold air intake is a big plus, several options for those. As for suspension, you've probably seen the posts about the 'air delete' or just adding new Bilsteins and springs, and Firestone bags for heavy towing. Also check your trans fluid, don't be like me and assume that the previous owner took care of it.