So I must be doing something wrong, but I can not for the life of me figure it out and neither can infiniti.

We had the Battery replaced because we thought it was out of juice. Then we had the starter replaced bc we thought that was the issue.

Two weeks after replacing the stsrter thecar will not start again. Totally dead...seats will not move..nothing.

We turn everything off. Before exiting the vehicle. I mean everything YET something is causing the Battery to drain.

Is this happening to anyone else?

I bought a 2019 Nissan Armada May 5 2020 it had 16,000mi. In a month it die on me. I called Nissan they reprogram the ECM and said that took care of it 2 days later died on me again. My best advice to you is get rid of the truck. I sold mine to another dealership. Maybe they have the resources to trace the problem down. Trade it or sell it off.

 

I have started my little investigation on this. First I wanted to check for a bad ground. I followed this link. I did have 0.5v drop. So I verified that I have an acceptable ground.
Then I recharged the battery the night before with a tender and I went for a road test. I plugged the ODB2. I verified that the dashboard battery gauge (left bottom) was matching exactly with the ODB2 display. At the very beginning it would read 13.7-13.0v. After a while, maybe 15 minutes driving, A/C on all the time, driving between traffic lights, it started dropping as low as 12.0-12.3v, rarely going back to 13.0v.
I let it rest overnight and checked the battery voltage parked in the garage. It read 12.4v. I expected to see 12.6 instead.

So I am confirming what Primo is saying. The battery does not get recharged enough.

I would be worried to have the battery charged all the time at 14v. Would not that fry the battery? I know the battery tender switches to a floating voltage, around 13.1v, once the battery is fully charged. That is in fact to avoid damaging the battery.

Before I take it to the dealer (not always so helpful), I am going to try to replace the Battery Circuit Fusible Link Holder as done by bassmadrigal. This link is the one I have found. I do not seem to find the exact match for Armada. I hope they are the same?

 

I have also have this issue. I replaced the entire battery negative cable without the inline amperage meter with a 10$ cable (sensor dongle left disconnected) tonight. This has happened to me 5 times since May. After the cable was changed the engine started fine with no SEL. Multimeter shows 14.4 v average over 20 minutes at idle. Will run the volt meter on my Bully Dog GT while driving to see what it looks like. Will post back if this issue is resolved.

 

Read post #10

Armada (and QX) charging system problem fix

Long story but answers a few questions that Nissan can't. I spent hours on the phone with Nissan local and Nissan north America with their answers to questions limited to -we can't- they can't-it won't-uh huh- and so sorry- then I got into the books and tools. As we all know, the Armadas leak...

www.clubarmada.com

 

Once I unplugged the sensor from the negative battery cable the battery started recharging. I do not drive the Armada often. So after a week sitting in the garage the battery voltage was down to 12.2V. I wanted to double-check if the battery would re-charge in this condition, according to the "feature". So I plugged back the negative battery cable sensor.
With my surprise I observed the voltage always stayed around 14.3-14.1V in 20 miles driving. I let it rest, the following morning the battery voltage was above 12.4V. So it did recharge!

I have some hope that the ECM recall fix did something right actually. So I decided to keep the negative battery cable sensor plugged for now and only worry if the battery goes below 12.2V.

 

doubtful nissan changed the design. it as been this way for years and years. what you are noticing is an edge case and likely will return back to normal if you keep driving. ive seen that behavior before and there's certain conditions that cause the battery to stay at a higher current, ,but its usually temporary.

 

Hello, it's my first post on Armada Club. I got QX80 2015 and now I have 3rd battery in my car already. It is the same issue what you guys mentioned. Original battery died after 2 years (I thought because short runs), second died in January this year with 'catastrophic' consequences. First thing radio didn't play any sound (lost coding - fixed by local professional electronic shack ), airbag light show up on desktop and blinking in " diagnostic mode". Last issue - no one know how to fix. We don't have Infiniti service in my country and specialists from Nissan service got confused. When they connect nissan consult 3P tool, they can read errors (no errors show up at all) but straight after connection internal fun blower start; first slowly and then faster and faster, finally after 10minutes car disable power and nissan consult tool is disconnected (aborted). But in this 10 min CAN bus diagnose never finish, and airbag diagnose show historical error U1000 - CAN bus issue. - May someone know what's going, some technician on forum?
Any way that was done by 2nd bad (dead) battery. Since that I monitoring my battery and battery charging is very weird.
Even I drove 200km (~130miles) on highway battery didn't get properly charge. Voltage from alternator jumping between 13-14V, on idle running (parking or red lights) dropped down to 12V(discharging battery!!!). I read thru many websites and forums and only one solution looks like works - disable (disconnecting) current sensor on negative cable from battery or signal cable PWM to alternator. I didn't modified my yet. The solution with tiny aluminum foil (shield) under current sensor doesn't work for me. I put 4-5 wraps on negative cable and still low charging voltage during driving.
I found also that after switch off engine and close car , parasitic current draining my battery is around 160mA.
Old school say it must be below 50mA. I waited more than 2 minutes to do this measurement - maybe not enough time? Today I will try wait longer time and then I will remove fuse by fuse to check what is eating battery "at night".
Save you battery guys for avoid problems like I have. I started to charge my with external charger every weekend.
Thank you for any help and suggestions.
BR
Dan

 

...The solution with tiny aluminum foil (shield) under current sensor doesn't work for me. I put 4-5 wraps on negative cable and still low charging voltage during driving.

Adding foil won't do anything for the battery discharging issue. Nissan is definitely aware of this issue but refuses to acknowledge their ECM controlled alternator is causing these premature discharges of the vehicle's battery.

One of the first mods I did when I first got my Z62 was cutting the signal wire (5V output) on the battery current sensor. It's been over 3 years and 50K+ miles since I did this mod and no battery/charging issues.

 

U1000
Controller Area Network (CAN) communication harness is open or shorted
Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Poor harness ground connection.

you will have to visually inspect wiring harnesses and look for any signs of corrosion, bent wires/pins, faulty grounds. the canbus needs continuity all throughout the system. its serial in nature, so if there is a weak link somewhere ,it can cripple the car.

also with this basic error, usually there is some other code because that other code would pinpoint the issue, so i would go to another shop and re check the codes again. its only the u1000 shows up, then its a visual inspection that is needed.

 

Thanks for answers. Those wires I'm planning cut today but first I have to find proper diagram for that, I can see 4 wires, +12V, ground and 2 other with signal I guess. Someone mentioned before that after cut signal wire some DTC error will show up. And the whole theory about shielding negative wire under sensor probably have to jamming\fool IPDM- ECM
to make this "undercharging" of battery. Not sure for what is that selling more batteries or some environmental business.
I made this shield isolated but maybe it should be connected to minus on battery(holder of sensor). I believe that jamming will change characteristic of charge (higher voltage for longer time during driving trip).
About this airbag error U1000, consult show it as historical error but cant clean it. I checked already all connectors grounds etc. heh car looks that time as vandalized. Then I tried different car interfaces but no luck. This running cabin fan during error readings with consult and shat down after 10minutes means something but I'm not expert.
Apart of that issues car is beautiful

 

On my ‘14 QX80, the signal wire for the ECM-controlled output on the battery current sensor is a blue wire. It’s likely the same for your truck. Easy to rule out with ignition on and a multimeter on hand. It’ll be the only wire with an output of at least 5V.

The only DTC that will appear when scanned is a P1550 for battery current sensor. What I did, since NYS has annual emissions/inspections, I spliced in bullet connectors. When my truck is due for inspection, I reconnect the wire and the P1550 DTC is eliminated. Once inspection is done, I disconnect it.

 

your 2019 is no different than a 2018 or 2017 in terms of this mod being done. the dealer just dont want to modify something thats not sanctioned by nissan.

you can do it yourself. if not, and if you have a trusted mechanic, give them the link to this thread and have them do it. there are photos and all the info needed to get this done. there is also a youtube video to shed light on this.

 

your 2019 is no different than a 2018 or 2017 in terms of this mod being done. the dealer just dont want to modify something thats not sanctioned by nissan.

you can do it yourself. if not, and if you have a trusted mechanic, give them the link to this thread and have them do it. there are photos and all the info needed to get this done. there is also a youtube video to shed light on this.

Thanks for your input. I was looking for photos or videos specific to the location and removal of the IPDM from my vehicle. The only video I have seen over and over on multiple forums is of a guy working on a random IPDM already cut out of a vehicle. Once I get to that point, I know I can get the #33 pin removed, as specified in FOOFUR's post...so that video is not helping me. Anyone who knows where I can see photos, videos, or even a schematic diagram of the wiring on the IPDM, I would appreciate your direction. I have locked behind the negative terminal on the battery and I see a couple of things that may have the IPDM in them, but would rather not just start pulling off things arbitrarily. Thanks for any assistance you can give me.

 

are you mechanically inclined? can you read a schematic?
if you are not comfortable doing those two things, you should not mess around with this system. the color codes of model years differ , so what may be a purple wire on a certain year model could be blue/brown on another year, this is why reading a schematic and tracing wires is imperative.

id recommend you find another nissan dealer and ask them if they have heard of this mod and if they would do it for you. otherwise, find a trusted mechanic who can do this.

if you have emissions testing done in your area, you should also make it so its reversible if you need it to be.

 

I am actually very mechanically inclined...more so than many men. When I was much younger, I worked on my cars all the time...even rewired an MG back in the 70s, which was notorious for electrical problems. However, that being said, prefer not to do that kind of work these days unless I have no choice. Furthermore, it should not be my responsibility on a new vehicle under warranty.

After recharging my battery yet again yesterday and this morning, I said enough is enough. I called the dealer and demanded I wanted it done or I was going to pursue legal action. They once again tried to insist de-pinning was not necessary on a 2019...only on older models...that reprogramming should solve the problem...but I already had mine reprogrammed. I told them that based on forums I can give them proof that hundreds of people with 2019 models were experiencing the same thing, and Infiniti needs to take responsibility and fix the problem. The service adviser concurred that the "smart" alternator system in the vehicle was garbage, but said his hands were tied. He put me on hold and then told me to bring it in. I am at the dealer now and they supposedly already removed the pin #33 wire from the IPDM. In my case it was a red wire not blue, like other people mentioned. I guess the squeaky wheel does get the most grease. I just hope this is the solution. Waiting as they recharge the battery, since it was very low.

 

cant speak for anyone else but i dont know who you are, man or woman, and i did not mean any disrespect either way. i don't know your comfort level with mechanics , hence why I asked. based on your posts it seems you could not gather the data in this thread to make the mod, when others did, so that is why i mentioned a mechanic.

i agree 100% , squeaky wheel gets the grease. you knew better and pushed back and the dealer sided with you because they knew you knew..

your car's charging system is still the same as in prior years based on the operators manual in that regard and the dealer knew that as well.

happy to hear all is going as you want.

 

2011 QX56 and have had all the battery issues mentioned on this board for past 3 years. Bought the truck used in 2014 with 17K miles. Took it to the dealer and each time it wouldn’t show issue. Then let them have it over the weekend and not being driven and battery dead. They changed all cables and new battery and it worked for 6 months and that was 3 years ago. Then cold weather seems to make it worse. Changed to Odyssey Battery and good for 4 months and started again. Couldn’t link it to the shirt grocery visits as it died for me at the boat ramp. Was about to sell and they did the 2019 dates end of year and seemed to work through the winter and 2020 summer. First cold weather and back to not working and need to keep battery tender on car. No issues when checking the monitor. clearly the parasitic drain is too much and haven’t started unplugging every amp or relay. The only issue we have seen is the passenger seat belt locks up once passenger seated.

This past week the tender wasn’t even enough. does anyone know which color wire off the ground sensor or where to find schematic for 2011qx56?

 

2011QX56, I don't know what color wire it is on your Armada, but if you read the discussion above, I twisted the dealer's arm to essentially force them correct the problem. They know it is an issue, but they go through the motions and do everything else, which never fixes the problem permanently. When I told the rep in the repair dept. that I had proof that hundreds of other people had the same issue and it required de-pinning, he finally admitted that the system was "sh*t" (using his word) and he agreed to remove the necessary pin #33... red on my vehicle and blue on others apparently. If you can't figure out which pin it is on your vehicle, then call and be forceful. I was tired of recharging my battery every day or two and constantly being left stranded. No one should have to deal with this problem, since the dealers know the cure for their faulty system...yet they leave their customers to fend for themselves. Good luck.

 

The dealer applied the bulletin on my 2019 Armada a couple of months ago. Last week I found my battery dead since the "fix".
This is an unresolved problem for some of us. A real pity because the truck is good otherwise.

 

My issues have been resolved with the reprogramming of the alternator (1) to be constantly charging as opposed to cycling abandon (2) to charge at the higher voltage (14.1v?) such that the battery is well above 12.8v. Note that you will need to get a good battery ( Deka or like, I went with AGM 900 cca ) as the existing battery like has beeen abused due to the likely >50% discharge due to lack of charging prior to the reprogramming. With a strong battery and reprogramming and constant charging it has been over 8 months with no issues.

 

The ECM reprogramming has mixed results from different owners. Goes to wonder if it is a real fix or not. Or the reprogramming works better on QX's and not Armada's. My batteries on both my 2011 and 2013 have lasted me approximately 3 years each before replacement. So call me lucky. No reprogramming needed. The most I did was wrap foil around the cable and the battery sensor. Which I have noticed that my batteries would always get maximum charge from the alternator. This too has been a mixed fix. Where it works for some and not other. In my case...call me lucky again.

 

My Armada has started experiencing this issue since December. When I read about this battery dead/draining issue almost 2 years ago, I started monitoring my batt periodically. It was previously kept on at least 12.4V - measured a day or two after the last trip. Then since December when it didn't start at all, I noticed the batt was on low 11V and max charged voltage (after a 2hr trip) was only around 12.1- 12.2V. It really didn't go more than 12.2V until the other day when I noticed a constant charge voltage of ~14.2V was applied all throughout my trip. That left the resultant voltage to about 12.4V after the trip. But then again it was only that day, not sure what was different - sure it was raining but I don't see a reason why it would cause that - or should I say cause the 'normal' charging voltage. I can't say the battery is on its way out since it's holding charge very well using my battery tender @3A. Maybe I need more tests.

 

your battery may be on its way out or something else in the chain. this "feature" has been on nissan products for years. it doesn't just start up out of the blue.

 

I'd probably agree there's something "different" with the way the charging system is designed on this platform but wouldn't go as far as saying it's been on nissan products for years. I've owned nothing but nissan since 1989 sentra and never had this problem even with two of them that went above 200k miles. Granted I never had every nissan vehicle and charging techniques have evolved overtime. Just saying I'm also a member of other nissan (infiniti) forums and battery draining/dead related thread is extremely rare - especially when considering the # of units sold.

That said, this isn't really a huge of a concern for me. My battery tender is just about 2ft away from where I park the vehicle and I use the vehicle within 3-4days anyway. But I understand how this can be very frustrating to other owners.

 

you can look in the operator's manual of earlier armadas,titans and nissan sedans and see this "smart feature". its not new.

 

I'm seeing these New Features" (current sensor) being applied on other makes too.. For sure all Hyundai 2012 + have it built-in to their negative battery cables and costs over a 100 dollars to replace the entire cable. At least with what we have its a separate component. Which we can disconnect/bypass with ease. All for the sake of increasing MPG. I'd rather pay more for gas than get stranded in the middle of no where because my Beast won't start. For sure you'll save more on gas... if you can't drive a dead vehicle. Maybe that was the thought process.

 

there's nothing wrong. if you are trying to infer that my post was snippy, it wasn't. you can't tell tone over just words. perhaps i should have put up an emoji..

 

I'm in the same situation, 2019 Armada bought new, less than 24k miles, 5x's been in with dead battery and having to call roadside assistance. Bought my own charger too. They have reconfigured the ECM, changed out the brake pedal switch and lastly this week reconfigured the IPDM saying this is the fix. Service tech says it is on 2018-19 when I asked if the 21 is having this issue. He says no. This is my 3rd Armada so i'm loyal to Armada. I've escalated it to Nissan Consumer Affairs this time because it qualifies for the lemon law here in FL, less than 2yrs old, less than 24k miles and same issue in for repairs more than 3x's. I'm tired of getting stranded but I love my Armada. I'll be curious to see if/what they do for me. Said would need in 10 days. I've never tried to fix it outside of Nissan dealership where I bought it because I wanted to make sure they can't say it is me. We will see what happens.

 

I got a tip on how to over-ride the alternator PWM sensor to just keep the alternator running at 100%. I just completed the snip of the wire, and the battery indicator on the dash is staying steady at about ~14V with all accessories turned off.

The IPDM sits in a large black box (kind of an L-shaped box about 8x10") right behind the battery. Once you remove the cover, there is an angled (nearly vertical) fuse box on the passenger side of the box, that you can release with two pull tabs and pull-up if you prefer not to reach-in between the various harness cables.

On the side towards the front of the car, is just a large flat-black surface, and 2/3rds of the way down, towards the middle, there is a single square-ish white plug adapter with 12, 18-gauge wires coming out of it. On the upper row of 6-wires (closest to center) in the middle should be a "solid red" wire. (I have a 2011 QX56 which is solid red). I simply cut the wire & put some electrical tape on it. this method avoids the 'fault code" triggered if you mess with the current sensor on the negative battery terminal as the alternate approach.)

I will hop back on-line and post if I get another dead battery, post this modification.

 

@iervoline4, thanks for being honest about not having any automotive knowledge. With that said, the last thing you'd want to accidentally do is damage the IPDM and end up having to replace it. That will be very costly.

Take a look at the negative battery terminal. Bolted on the negative terminal is the battery current sensor which has a pigtail connector that plugs into that sensor. There are two ways to go about it this but to be on the safer side of DIY'ing, here's what you can do. Unplug that connector from the battery current sensor. Tape off the pigtail that you've just unplugged. Now the alternator will run like a traditional alternator and not rely on the ECM to say when and if to start charging the battery.

 

@iervoline4, thanks for being honest about not having any automotive knowledge. With that said, the last thing you'd want to accidentally do is damage the IPDM and end up having to replace it. That will be very costly. Take a look at the negative battery terminal. Bolted on the negative terminal is the battery current sensor which has a pigtail connector that plugs into that sensor. There are two ways to go about it this but to be on the safer side of DIY'ing, here's what you can do. Unplug that connector from the battery current sensor. Tape off the pigtail that you've just unplugged. Now the alternator will run like a traditional alternator and not rely on the ECM to say when and if to start charging the battery.

I've had the same problem with my 19 Armada. The senor in my case is just an additional tap bolted to the Neg cable. I unbolted it and have had one incident since that occured after driving about 40 miles. I've also done thhe battery replacement. Now carry a small jumper box with me. I think I may try the reprogramming next time it goes for service. Never had this problem with my 2013.