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2011QX56, I don't know what color wire it is on your Armada, but if you read the discussion above, I twisted the dealer's arm to essentially force them correct the problem. They know it is an issue, but they go through the motions and do everything else, which never fixes the problem permanently. When I told the rep in the repair dept. that I had proof that hundreds of other people had the same issue and it required de-pinning, he finally admitted that the system was "sh*t" (using his word) and he agreed to remove the necessary pin #33... red on my vehicle and blue on others apparently. If you can't figure out which pin it is on your vehicle, then call and be forceful. I was tired of recharging my battery every day or two and constantly being left stranded. No one should have to deal with this problem, since the dealers know the cure for their faulty system...yet they leave their customers to fend for themselves. Good luck.
 

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In the midst of the same problem on a 2019 Q80. Had it in the shop now for the third time. First time the swapped out the brand new battery (only had 4k on it). Next time they said they fixed with a software update which effects the way the alternator charges. Now a month later, after getting stuck for the 5th or so time, its back. They say they have another update they are doing, the double secret update. I'm convinced its a lemon and they have no idea how to fix. I will pick up and see how it works and may pursue lemon law on it. I shouldn't have to Uber to work when I am paying for a $70,000 SUV. Will keep you posted if this fix works.
@Foofur Did you ever get your issue resolved? I'm having the same problems with my 2019 Nissan Armada. I hadn't had it 2 years and the dealer has seen me more times for this than I've had oil changes.
 

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@Foofur Did you ever get your issue resolved? I'm having the same problems with my 2019 Nissan Armada. I hadn't had it 2 years and the dealer has seen me more times for this than I've had oil changes.
I haven't had any problems since they reprogrammed by ECM and replaced the battery with a larger one. Call Nissan Customer Service and file a complaint if you are still under warranty. Let them know you want them to buy back the vehicle. This was the only way I got my case moved up to a Tech that could get the battery replaced.
 

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The dealer applied the bulletin on my 2019 Armada a couple of months ago. Last week I found my battery dead since the "fix".
This is an unresolved problem for some of us. A real pity because the truck is good otherwise.
 

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The dealer applied the bulletin on my 2019 Armada a couple of months ago. Last week I found my battery dead since the "fix".
This is an unresolved problem for some of us. A real pity because the truck is good otherwise.
My issues have been resolved with the reprogramming of the alternator (1) to be constantly charging as opposed to cycling abandon (2) to charge at the higher voltage (14.1v?) such that the battery is well above 12.8v. Note that you will need to get a good battery ( Deka or like, I went with AGM 900 cca ) as the existing battery like has beeen abused due to the likely >50% discharge due to lack of charging prior to the reprogramming. With a strong battery and reprogramming and constant charging it has been over 8 months with no issues.
 

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The ECM reprogramming has mixed results from different owners. Goes to wonder if it is a real fix or not. Or the reprogramming works better on QX's and not Armada's. My batteries on both my 2011 and 2013 have lasted me approximately 3 years each before replacement. So call me lucky. No reprogramming needed. The most I did was wrap foil around the cable and the battery sensor. Which I have noticed that my batteries would always get maximum charge from the alternator. This too has been a mixed fix. Where it works for some and not other. In my case...call me lucky again.
 
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My Armada has started experiencing this issue since December. When I read about this battery dead/draining issue almost 2 years ago, I started monitoring my batt periodically. It was previously kept on at least 12.4V - measured a day or two after the last trip. Then since December when it didn't start at all, I noticed the batt was on low 11V and max charged voltage (after a 2hr trip) was only around 12.1- 12.2V. It really didn't go more than 12.2V until the other day when I noticed a constant charge voltage of ~14.2V was applied all throughout my trip. That left the resultant voltage to about 12.4V after the trip. But then again it was only that day, not sure what was different - sure it was raining but I don't see a reason why it would cause that - or should I say cause the 'normal' charging voltage. I can't say the battery is on its way out since it's holding charge very well using my battery tender @3A. Maybe I need more tests.
 

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your battery may be on its way out or something else in the chain. this "feature" has been on nissan products for years. it doesn't just start up out of the blue.
I'd probably agree there's something "different" with the way the charging system is designed on this platform but wouldn't go as far as saying it's been on nissan products for years. I've owned nothing but nissan since 1989 sentra and never had this problem even with two of them that went above 200k miles. Granted I never had every nissan vehicle and charging techniques have evolved overtime. Just saying I'm also a member of other nissan (infiniti) forums and battery draining/dead related thread is extremely rare - especially when considering the # of units sold.

That said, this isn't really a huge of a concern for me. My battery tender is just about 2ft away from where I park the vehicle and I use the vehicle within 3-4days anyway. But I understand how this can be very frustrating to other owners.
 

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you can look in the operator's manual of earlier armadas,titans and nissan sedans and see this "smart feature". its not new.
I'm seeing these New Features" (current sensor) being applied on other makes too.. For sure all Hyundai 2012 + have it built-in to their negative battery cables and costs over a 100 dollars to replace the entire cable. At least with what we have its a separate component. Which we can disconnect/bypass with ease. All for the sake of increasing MPG. I'd rather pay more for gas than get stranded in the middle of no where because my Beast won't start. For sure you'll save more on gas... if you can't drive a dead vehicle. Maybe that was the thought process.
 
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you can look in the operator's manual of earlier armadas,titans and nissan sedans and see this "smart feature". its not new.
First off, what's wrong man? You seem different here ;)

That's in FSM and I'm fully aware. Case in point: Alternator or battery

Anyways what I'm trying to say was:
1) there could be variances between models as FSM doesn't really tell all the details beyond words and graphs (unless I missed it?). It's not new tech but logic behind may be different between models - like how some are integrated within the cable itself. Like I said above, in several other nissan / infiniti vehicles I've owned, the behavior was different. If the batt is dead, it's dead...no fuss, no drama. Just replace it and done.
2) Despite what all I said, I don't really care. I haven't been annoyed enough to research deeper beyond what logs can show.
 

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I'm in the same situation, 2019 Armada bought new, less than 24k miles, 5x's been in with dead battery and having to call roadside assistance. Bought my own charger too. They have reconfigured the ECM, changed out the brake pedal switch and lastly this week reconfigured the IPDM saying this is the fix. Service tech says it is on 2018-19 when I asked if the 21 is having this issue. He says no. This is my 3rd Armada so i'm loyal to Armada. I've escalated it to Nissan Consumer Affairs this time because it qualifies for the lemon law here in FL, less than 2yrs old, less than 24k miles and same issue in for repairs more than 3x's. I'm tired of getting stranded but I love my Armada. I'll be curious to see if/what they do for me. Said would need in 10 days. I've never tried to fix it outside of Nissan dealership where I bought it because I wanted to make sure they can't say it is me. We will see what happens.
 

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I'm in the same situation, 2019 Armada bought new, less than 24k miles, 5x's been in with dead battery and having to call roadside assistance. Bought my own charger too. They have reconfigured the ECM, changed out the brake pedal switch and lastly this week reconfigured the IPDM saying this is the fix. Service tech says it is on 2018-19 when I asked if the 21 is having this issue. He says no. This is my 3rd Armada so i'm loyal to Armada. I've escalated it to Nissan Consumer Affairs this time because it qualifies for the lemon law here in FL, less than 2yrs old, less than 24k miles and same issue in for repairs more than 3x's. I'm tired of getting stranded but I love my Armada. I'll be curious to see if/what they do for me. Said would need in 10 days. I've never tried to fix it outside of Nissan dealership where I bought it because I wanted to make sure they can't say it is me. We will see what happens.
I got a tip on how to over-ride the alternator PWM sensor to just keep the alternator running at 100%. I just completed the snip of the wire, and the battery indicator on the dash is staying steady at about ~14V with all accessories turned off.

The IPDM sits in a large black box (kind of an L-shaped box about 8x10") right behind the battery. Once you remove the cover, there is an angled (nearly vertical) fuse box on the passenger side of the box, that you can release with two pull tabs and pull-up if you prefer not to reach-in between the various harness cables.

On the side towards the front of the car, is just a large flat-black surface, and 2/3rds of the way down, towards the middle, there is a single square-ish white plug adapter with 12, 18-gauge wires coming out of it. On the upper row of 6-wires (closest to center) in the middle should be a "solid red" wire. (I have a 2011 QX56 which is solid red). I simply cut the wire & put some electrical tape on it. this method avoids the 'fault code" triggered if you mess with the current sensor on the negative battery terminal as the alternate approach.)

I will hop back on-line and post if I get another dead battery, post this modification.
 

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so i recently discussed this issue with infiniti and what they assume is the problem is the smart start function..some infinitis do not have this seems like certain dealerships add this... anyway my infiniti just disconnected the smart start and they were going to charge me but I told them look I have been having this issue over and over there has got to be something on inifiniti part I am not the only one I am sure I am not your first. so they waived the $140 cost to disconnect the smart start and its been a month with no problems..
Hi there! Have you had any problems since they did the smart start disconnect? They want to do this with my car now, but I’m afraid it’s going to kill the alternator quick. Any issues?
 

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So i just got mine back from Infiniti for the 3rd time last night. They swear they have fixed it now, here is what they did: DE-PIN THE IPDM IN ORDER TO HAVE THE ALTERNATOR NOT CYCLE ON AND OFF BUT TO REMAIN ON AT ALL TIMES. IPDM PIN #33
I'm still not convinced and am going to pursue the Lemon Law here in Florida. My wife and kids are driving it and the change they made was described to me and was nearly identical to what they said the last time. Good luck!
Is the IPDM Pin #33 for a 2019 Armada? I have the same issues with the battery draining. I use a trickle charger nightly and the battery is only good for three starts in "my world". By that I mean, I'm 5 miles to work, 1 mile to grocery store, etc. everywhere I go is under 8 miles. We tested the 8 mile theory and it seems to be true for us, when we go further than 8 miles or have the car running and not even moving for an hour or so the alternator does charge the battery. We know this because the trickle charger reads the battery level prior to charging. I should mention, I have ABSOLUTELY no automotive knowledge only that I have a 2019 that leaves me stranded......CONSTANTLY and I'm determined to figure out why! Also I could really use help on where to find the map for the IPDM Pin numbers and colors. If anyone knows where I can find this I'd truly appreciate the lead. Thanks!
 

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@iervoline4, thanks for being honest about not having any automotive knowledge. With that said, the last thing you'd want to accidentally do is damage the IPDM and end up having to replace it. That will be very costly.

Take a look at the negative battery terminal. Bolted on the negative terminal is the battery current sensor which has a pigtail connector that plugs into that sensor. There are two ways to go about it this but to be on the safer side of DIY'ing, here's what you can do. Unplug that connector from the battery current sensor. Tape off the pigtail that you've just unplugged. Now the alternator will run like a traditional alternator and not rely on the ECM to say when and if to start charging the battery.
 
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