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Discussion Starter #1
Time has come for first oil change and I wanted to get input from fellow DIY'ers before I do this. Do you buy Nissan parts for the oil change such as oil filter, crush washers? Or do you buy the stuff from local auto parts store? anyone have torque specs for the oil pan bolt? what weight oil is recommended? I am thinking of Mobil 1 10W30.

Thanks in advance.

-Jim
 

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Get a oil filter wrench

You have to remove the front skid plate held by 4 bolts (12mm heads I think), just loosen the rear bolts as the skid plate is slotted. You have to remove the 2 front bolts completely. Buy a 65mm oil filter wrench (socket style) as the factory installed oil filter is installed SUPER tight by a psycho gorilla. I buy Nissan oil filters and save receipts/keep records for warranty purposes. Use any good quality oil that you like, organic or synthetic, as long as you change oil on a regular basis. Avoid Fram oil filters as they are living by name alone, no quality. Pureone (puralator) has about the best oil filter dollar for dollar if you must run after market. I bought 8 OEM filters w/crush washers from irontoad.com for <$48 w/shipping about 6 months ago. Oh yeah, I am a little thick in the mid-section (all muscle), it is helpful to drive front wheels up on some short scrap 2x8” (or something similar) to gain a inch or so of room under front spoiler. This makes it easier to remove skid plate. Good luck, and have fun - it is easy with the oil filter wrench.
 

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I will add a couple of things. Be sure the oil is warm when you drain it, but not so hot that it will burn if you get some on you. Use the Nissan filter, and be sure to install the new drain plug gasket that comes with the filter. Clean the filter seating area well, and oil the surface of the new filter gasket before installing it. Don't use the filter wrench to tighten the filter. Screw it down until the gasket touches then turn it about 3/4 of a turn more. You will need 7 quarts of oil. Fill it until the level is somewhere between the two marks on the dip stick. Do not overfill!
 

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Looks like he covered all the basics. I always grab a handful of rags and try to block out an extra few minutes of time to just look around under the truck - commune with the beast and start to get familiar with what looks 'normal' so that you'll notice when something isn't right later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the tips

I change oil regularly on my other cars along with suspension, brakes, you name it, but its always a good idea to find out if there are any particulars. it seems much easier to crawl under this thing than the M3. :p
 

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Honda MC oil filters are almost the same

I just changed the oil on my new Honda ST1300 for the first time tonight and the OEM Honda filters outside diameter (65mm), thread and sealing surface is exactly the same as the Armada but just a little shorter. When the warranty is out on both I am going to run the Armada size Puralator on both. Go figure that a 5.6l truck engine and a 1.3l MC engine have almost the exact same filter.
 

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jechambe said:
Time has come for first oil change and I wanted to get input from fellow DIY'ers before I do this. Do you buy Nissan parts for the oil change such as oil filter, crush washers? Or do you buy the stuff from local auto parts store? anyone have torque specs for the oil pan bolt? what weight oil is recommended? I am thinking of Mobil 1 10W30.

Thanks in advance.

-Jim
If you are going to use Mobil 1, use a synthetic oil filter. The standard filters aren't setup to work with the synthetic oil.
Change it hot. Put a dab of oil on the gasket of the new filter before installing.
Don't overfill.
Make sure you have a couple thousand on the motor before switching to synthetic to seat the rings properly. Mobil says it better but they are higher flowing and get more debris. Also, Nissan can't fault you for using an aftermarket filter for warranty purposes. They regulated that out also.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...ended_Performance_Oil_Filters_FAQs.aspx#FAQs1
Dispose of oil properly.

Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pep Boys 65mm socket sucks!

Ok, i went and picked up the 65mm socket from Pep Boys. it would be easier using chopsticks to unscrew the damn thing than this piece of junk. What should I expect for 2.99 right. alright, anyone have a recommendation on where to get this socket. the pep boys one has all of 2 centimeters of engagement and once you pop in the wrench, it pushes the socket out another centimer so you have jack for engagement on the filter.

I'm thinking about buying the adjustable wrench for oil filters from Sears. anyone have good experience with them?

Thanks
 

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I think I got mine at Sears auto center.
 

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I'm confused. There's a lot of recommendations to break-in the engine before switching to synth, but the mobil web site says that it's a myth. What would happen if synth was put in before the break-in period? :confused:
 

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I would say always follow the manual, but I switched synth after 3k miles and never looked back. No problems here.
 

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adjmcloon said:
I would say always follow the manual, but I switched synth after 3k miles and never looked back. No problems here.
How often do you change the synthetic?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just wanted to report that using those big oil filter clamps work just fine on the filter. It came off in a heartbeat. There is a picture of one on the oil change diy over on the titan forum for reference.
running Mobil-1 10W30 now.
 

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synthetic on break in

I cuncur with Mobil 1 on this. I have switched to synthetic at under 1000 miles on every new car I have bought in the last 10 years. From what I see the sooner you do it the cleaner your engine will stay inside. I took autoshop in the 70's when they first came out with full synthetic and heard the same warnings. I think tolerances are much tighter than they used to be back them and that (do not use synthetic until after 1500 mile break in) is simply old boiler plate info that got carried forward by word of mouth. From what Mobil1 says and what I have experienced I say it is OK to switch over as soon as you can do so.

P.S. my 2005 mini cooper S came from the factory with synthetic and the first scheduled oil change is at 9000 miles (which by the way is free for 4 years).

Chrisarmada
04 smoke 4 x 4
 

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My dad bought a Titan a couple of months ago, and his skid plate has a little "trap door" that opens up so you can access the filter without having to remove the whole thing.
 

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Does Size Matter? Oil Filter that is.

Cillyone already noticed, but I decided to change my oil on the Armada and Accord today instead of taking to dealer. I grabbed an oil filter for the Armada and one for the Honda Accord 4 Cylinder. They are exactly the same.
I checked 5 times just to make sure.
I've read that it's not a problem, but you'd think with double the cylinders, more than double the displacement, hp, and all that, we'd need a larger oil filter. So here's a picture of the blue Honda Accord oil filter and the armada's.
 

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andy said:
Cillyone already noticed, but I decided to change my oil on the Armada and Accord today instead of taking to dealer. I grabbed an oil filter for the Armada and one for the Honda Accord 4 Cylinder. They are exactly the same.
I checked 5 times just to make sure.
I've read that it's not a problem, but you'd think with double the cylinders, more than double the displacement, hp, and all that, we'd need a larger oil filter. So here's a picture of the blue Honda Accord oil filter and the armada's.

Try cutting them in half to see if they are the same inside, they may just use the same outer case. What about the holes around the thread, are they the same?

Just interested :D
 
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