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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
This coolant pipe is very hard to find. And they may look good from the outside but if your coolant overflow has a rusty color this is rusting inside and must be replaced. This is probably the problem with a lot of these vehicles .

I Had a seller send me one from Florida ,because mine was corroded from the outside. But the inside was real bad from the one from Florida. Chunks of rust coming of it. Imagine this going through the radiator and thermostat. This is probably bad down south because people using tap water in their coolant system. A big NO NO!!!!!!!!!!!

Also got radiator support bolts.
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Couple of things to consider - For the radiator, have a look at Koyo. My stock radiator was leaking in all kinds of places. I first replaced it with a Cryomax radiator and that was garbage. Then went with a Koyo. That one worked well. I bought it for $205 from autopartswarehouse.com. Also, do yourself a favor - don't use the OEM hose clamps on your radiator hoses. Those are the pressure clamps that you spread with pliers to get on and off. Go with worm gear clamps wherever possible. Those pressure clamps will lose their "spring" after awhile and you will have leaks.

Regarding the exhaust manifolds, if yours aren't already cracked, they will. I just went through all of this, so I know. I did a lot of research and didn't find any aftermarket manifolds. The OEM manifolds will run you $2,000 ($1,000 per side). My understanding is that they have "improved" the design of the newer ones to address cracking, but I wouldn't put my money on them not cracking again. I opted to go with Cajun JBA headers/ long tubes stage 1 package. Those will run you $950 total for the pair but then you also have to put on an UpRev tune ($600) to control the AF ratio from running lean, which would then burn up the cats without that tune. I don't know what state you live in, but if it is strict on emissions, this setup could potentially be a problem. Plenty of folks on this forum have this setup without issue though. Just be aware that the stock exhaust manifold system is a 4 cat system. Going to the JBA headers permanently removes 2 of those cats. Now would be the time to research changing them out no matter what option you go with, as you will have some room to do the work with all that front end stuff out of the way. Otherwise it is very tight spaces to work in and would take about 8 hours to do.

You can check this thread: https://www.clubarmada.com/threads/...ed-their-exhaust-manifolds.86501/#post-578687

As well as this video on Youtube (not my video):
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks for the advice. What does this tune entail? Do you have to take it to someone,to have it tuned? How do you avoid CEL,s.
Is there a way to keep the cat's? And also how is the sound level on these?
 

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I'll skip the details of the tune as you are in the other thread where we are discussing that.
As for the sound, in my particular setup, there is really not much change at all. Just very slightly deeper tone.
I would attribute that fact to the Borla exhaust/muffler. Quality stuff there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
OK i picked up this coolant recovery tank (antifreeze overflow)

The Titan one can not be used it's missing a nipple,it's cheaper but will NOT work.

 

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Awesome job fixing up that Armada.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Awesome job fixing up that Armada.
Thank you i am glad a few are interested.

I hope this helps people, with parts, and putting the car together.

Got all of this for about $100 Just need radiator ,condenser and the front metal bumper. And then some little do dads
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Thank you i am glad a few are interested.

Got all of this for about $100 Just need radiator ,condenser and the front metal bumper. And then some little do dads
I like this thread. It is definitely intriguing.

I think I mentioned further up in this thread about a Koyo radiator. That one has treated me well since install. Definitely a part I would get new vs trying to find a good used one.

This is the one I had installed:
(I see CarID has it for $103 at this link)

05-08 Nissan Armada KOYO Radiator A2691
$165.95

DPI #
2691 Reference # 21211
Width 27.25" Height 23.4375"
Engine Oil Cooler NO
Transmission Oil Cooler 18 1/8"
Replacement OEM # 21460ZC00A
Notes: High-Performance KOYO Brand. Fits 5.6L V8 05-08
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I like this thread. It is definitely intriguing.

I think I mentioned further up in this thread about a Koyo radiator. That one has treated me well since install. Definitely a part I would get new vs trying to find a good used one.

This is the one I had installed:
(I see CarID has it for $103 at this link)

05-08 Nissan Armada KOYO Radiator A2691
$165.95

DPI #
2691 Reference # 21211
Width 27.25" Height 23.4375"
Engine Oil Cooler NO
Transmission Oil Cooler 18 1/8"
Replacement OEM # 21460ZC00A
Notes: High-Performance KOYO Brand. Fits 5.6L V8 05-08
Thanks you ,sounds good, i will check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Ok got a new fan bracket $59.22 ,figured after 179,000 miles it's worn out. I am also getting an accessory pulley and new water pump.

No sense putting car back together with old stuff.


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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Any update on this?
Picked up this, didn't want the old one to destroy stuff ,being unbalanced from the accident. And got a new idler wheel, and also bumper finisher.

Just got to get a radiator and condenser,and a water pump. I need to get it in my garage then the work will begin. Should be in there in a week or two.



 

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It seems like there's so much work to do, but I feel like it will be worth it. I am looking forward to seeing how this restoration project will turn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
It seems like there's so much work to do, but I feel like it will be worth it. I am looking forward to seeing how this restoration project will turn out.
Yeah it has been 10 months since i worked on it, a lot going on as you know.

Vehicle has a little more rust than i thought but i got it cheap and it gives me something to do.
I just recently ripped the exhaust manifold heat shields off, took me a while the bolts were rusted bad. Only one came out.

I am not sure what i will do from here, either way they have to come off. They will either get fixed or i will buy new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Ok the 3rd picture in up above and the one closest to the firewall took 4 hours to get off. I rounded it with an impact ( impacts are big no no with super rusted bolts) and it was the first and last bolt i tried with an impact. I finally got it off with dremiling flat surfaces and using a chisel through the passenger wheel well. I have 10 of 16 off now, half of the time the nut comes off and the other half the stud and nut come out. the Stud the nut down below came off of , should be fine , i will leave it in.

I am doing this with 3/8 ratchet with no extensions going from the front with a pipe over the ratchet. The front of the car is off and all accessories off. The mounts are untouched.
 

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