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Picked up an 05 Armada front accident..gonna fix it up.

15K views 75 replies 14 participants last post by  Buggs carrot 
#1 · (Edited)
Bought this off a person who intended to fix it up. Picked it up for $400.00.I believe it's a SE with 4wd.
I don't know much about these vehicles,pretty much owned Maxima's my whole life. Been on Maxima.org for 20 years.

Don't know the story ,it was just in a front end accident.

I almost have all the bad stuff off. Side rails are a little bent in. And power steering system is leaking and spraying fluid everywhere.
After taking oil cooler off(damaged in accident,or i thought it was)because it would't stop leaking. I had a ball bearing fall out. That's when i discovered the relief valve.I think the leak was just the gasket. So there's oil and power steering fluid everywhere.

I have some pictures, only had it for a month or so. I'll have to get better pictures.

I am buying parts now . I know about the radiator problem and the relief valve problem.
Anything you guys do to these vehicles, or the such, i should know about?
Like what radiator to buy? I heard the stillen one leaks after a couple years.
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#35 ·
Ok got a new fan bracket $59.22 ,figured after 179,000 miles it's worn out. I am also getting an accessory pulley and new water pump.

No sense putting car back together with old stuff.


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#37 ·
Picked up this, didn't want the old one to destroy stuff ,being unbalanced from the accident. And got a new idler wheel, and also bumper finisher.

Just got to get a radiator and condenser,and a water pump. I need to get it in my garage then the work will begin. Should be in there in a week or two.



 
#39 ·
Yeah it has been 10 months since i worked on it, a lot going on as you know.

Vehicle has a little more rust than i thought but i got it cheap and it gives me something to do.
I just recently ripped the exhaust manifold heat shields off, took me a while the bolts were rusted bad. Only one came out.

I am not sure what i will do from here, either way they have to come off. They will either get fixed or i will buy new ones.
 

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#40 ·
Ok the 3rd picture in up above and the one closest to the firewall took 4 hours to get off. I rounded it with an impact ( impacts are big no no with super rusted bolts) and it was the first and last bolt i tried with an impact. I finally got it off with dremiling flat surfaces and using a chisel through the passenger wheel well. I have 10 of 16 off now, half of the time the nut comes off and the other half the stud and nut come out. the Stud the nut down below came off of , should be fine , i will leave it in.

I am doing this with 3/8 ratchet with no extensions going from the front with a pipe over the ratchet. The front of the car is off and all accessories off. The mounts are untouched.
 

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#43 ·
I noticed that your new NEG battery cable didn't come with the current sensor pre installed. So, wondering how the existing one will wrap around the new cable.
 
#46 ·
So you are saying your old cable doesn't have a current sensor attached to it?
Yes the 05’s and 04’s don’t have it.


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#47 ·

Picked up two of these from eBay ,the front body mounts. And the things they bolt to are these two front things. I have removed these, and I am in the process of replacing with used ones. They are piece of the body they do not unbolt , spot welds must be taken out.
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They were rusty where the mounts bolt on and the accident didn't help.

I have both engine mounts on , pictures soon.

The front crossmember, or as Nissan calls it crossmember 1. The one I cut off a Armada in the junkyard. I didn't notice , someone must have yanked something hard out, while using the drivers side tow hook. Because the Boss or mounting nut was ripped out. These suspension sway bar nuts, are used for many things on the Armadas. I bought a bunch of these for the third crossmember, but also to weld a new boss on the 1st . I had to rebuild the area, as you can imagine a nut being ripped through the member. I also tapped all the holes and reinforced the member, with welding.
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This is the drivers mount installed with new Bolts, this was much harder than passenger side. keep in mind i have the whole front of the truck off.
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Also installed front body mounts and the body piece it bolts on. Welds are very sloppy, My welding helmet broke and i was welding with my hands over my eyes. I have one on order.
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Well every thing is back in alignment and I test fitted everything on the front. I used part of the old front crossmember that I cut off to make plates, and did some welding. Very front member will be welded on after engine area work is done, it's much easier with it off. But everything fits, after the accident and the tow hooks on the front help with every thing lining back up. They were essential, to getting everything almost perfectly back, to stock dimensions. And last picture, the radiator support bolts all line up, this is how it's done in the factory everything part, check each other parts alignment for fit.
Next step ordering Exhaust and headers.
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#49 ·
I picked up this rear exhaust it was cheap at $257 . I wanted JBA but many said it's much louder than stock. I will take quiet over HP. I have decided to go with the Cajun headers B pipe combo and tune. Will be purchasing shortly.

Also new manifold studs are on and or repaired. Running a die on them was hell. Also picked up different bolts and nuts for the project about $350 worth. Nissan fasteners are expensive.

Also purchased Koyo radiator For $107 from rockauto, They are currently out of stock.

 
#51 ·
Well this truck is leading me down a rabbit hole , I guess i will have to push on. I was cleaning under the Intake manifold with a small vacuum attachment. There was a decent size mice nest under it, and as a was vacuuming, I saw a chewed wire. After I got the IM off, the wires are a little chewed, but they can be taped up.
Made a tool out of a sharpie, idea I got on different forums, this worked great. I made it about 1 inch long and cut the unopened end, then split it all the way up, along the length. This is to get the fuel hose off.

While I am in there, I will get a new starter, some gaskets and bolts. I also slightly ported and polished the throttle body
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#53 ·
Hello, Picked up a Brand new Bosch from rockauto, for about $178 with discount. Also picked up 10 new Nissan Intake manifold bolts ,for $13.20. I have to clean up area then install all of this, next. Fix chewed wires and clean intake runners in head. Pictures to come next of that.
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#54 ·
Very nice. I got a reman Bosch from rockauto a couple months ago for $85.


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#55 ·
(y) 🤙 👏👏 Keep at it. We in the forum are rooting for you. Can't wait for the day, that your Beast returns back on the road and ROARS back to life 🙌
 
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#56 ·
Picked up a gates idler and a gates tensioner, about $65 for both. The cheap eBay one was dented. I have the starter in and the knock sensor harness on order from Nissan. Could not fix it, the corrosion near the plug. Also the starter was corroded in the engine bad, it was very hard to get out, had to hit with mini sledge.
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#57 ·
Have you tried shopping for parts at RockAuto? I got the same Kit including belts for about the same price. Keep at Bro!
 
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#59 ·
What a project! Very impressed with the perseverance. I don't even have the patience to scroll back to the top but I think you posted that it was $400, right. It'll be a great day when it's back on the road.
 
#64 ·
B pipes and tune will be after i put it back together . But these headers are beautiful look better than my pictures.

Still need to change transmission pan.

Just received the Cajun B pipes and they look great. I think it even came with stainless fasteners, I will check later. The headers bolted up perfectly, they are now on, not easy. I will show some pics installed later, and some other progress. I need to pick up some OEM B pipe gaskets.

Keep at it man... We are rooting for you!!!(y)(y)(y)
Here are some pictures. The front crossmember is welded on and I have a bunch of accessories on. Waiting on some little things. And I am running it a little to check for leaks, it can be run for 30 seconds at a time.
B pipes are on, and some of the exhaust. Just need to put muffler on, but engine sounds great.

After I get the parts I am waiting on, and satisfied with it not leaking, I will put the belt on, tensioner and fan.
 

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#65 ·
Amazing work. I need a pair of those headers!
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#66 ·
[/QUOTE] Pictures are of accessories being completed, and belt on. Also tow hooks and fan and radiator support, is on. Hard to work outside with the cold and weather, I can't use my garage because work is being done and been waiting months of stuff for it.

Also getting a 1121 code and a fear it's a fail safe code, limiting the throttle. I hope transmission is not bad. I should have the front done soon, and find out.
 

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#67 ·
Pictures are of accessories being completed, and belt on. Also tow hooks and fan and radiator support, is on. Hard to work outside with the cold and weather, I can't use my garage because work is being done and been waiting months of stuff for it.

Also getting a 1121 code and a fear it's a fail safe code, limiting the throttle. I hope transmission is not bad. I should have the front done soon, and find out.
[/QUOTE]
I wouldn't worry too much YET on the CEL code. Your beast has been sitting idle (a long while) and the ECM has to go thru a total re-calibration or drive cycles. Get it road worthy, then drive it several 100 miles in a combination of HWY (mostly) and CITY drive. This is what I had to do to mine after sitting on a ship for two month with battery disconnected (shipped from overseas to U.S.). Then check codes again.
 
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#69 ·
I wouldn't worry too much YET on the CEL code. Your beast has been sitting idle (a long while) and the ECM has to go thru a total re-calibration or drive cycles. Get it road worthy, then drive it several 100 miles in a combination of HWY (mostly) and CITY drive. This is what I had to do to mine after sitting on a ship for two month with battery disconnected (shipped from overseas to U.S.). Then check codes again.
OK I am further along, been working on a lot of things.

I have been trying to figure out the code i have for the transmission P1754 . Car is very sluggish, when driving, although engine sounds great. That's the only code i get , no other codes for the engine or transmission.

Any help would be appreciated.
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How long have you driven the beast since you had it road worthy? Reason I ask… is whenever your transmission throws a code like that. It will go into safe mode and only allow you to stay in the lower gears . If this happens, usually you can pull over Shut the engine off… restart and this will usually reset the TCM and drives normal until the TCM experience another fault condition.

OK I am further along, been working on a lot of things.

I have been trying to figure out the code i have for the transmission P1754 . Car is very sluggish, when driving, although engine sounds great. That's the only code i get , no other codes for the engine or transmission.

Any help would be appreciated.
How long have you driven the beast since you had it road worthy? Reason I ask… is whenever your transmission throws a code like that. It will go into safe mode and only allow you to stay in the lower gears . If this happens, usually you can pull over Shut the engine off… restart and this will usually reset the TCM and drives normal until the TCM experience another fault condition.
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P1725 relates to one of your solenoid valves in the TCM control module inside the transmission. Have you changed your tran fluid lately?
 
#70 · (Edited)
How long have you driven the beast since you had it road worthy? Reason I ask… is whenever your transmission throws a code like that. It will go into safe mode and only allow you to stay in the lower gears . If this happens, usually you can pull over Shut the engine off… restart and this will usually reset the TCM and drives normal until the TCM experience another fault condition.
P1725 relates to one of your solenoid valves in the TCM control module inside the transmission. Have you changed your tran fluid lately?
[/QUOTE] I have only driven it a few miles, and also it has no power even down low. The engine sounds great when i rev it , but when i put it in gear it is very sluggish, and i have to really get on it to move. Once in a while a P0507 comes on the scanner but it then clears it's self. The fluid is still red(looks clean) , i need to change the pan i have a new one. But i don't want to do it twice, if it needs a Valve Body. But i have very little experience with these vehicles, this has been what's holding me up. I had a lot of problems with the idle 1400-1700rpm. But i know have it down to around 900rpm. I used a Nissan data scan 2 , but not sure where to go from this point.

Thanks
 
#71 ·
P1725 relates to one of your solenoid valves in the TCM control module inside the transmission. Have you changed your tran fluid lately?
I have only driven it a few miles, and also it has no power even down low. The engine sounds great when i rev it , but when i put it in gear it is very sluggish, and i have to really get on it to move. Once in a while a P0507 comes on the scanner but it then clears it's self. The fluid is still red(looks clean) , i need to change the pan i have a new one. But i don't want to do it twice, if it needs a Valve Body. But i have very little experience with these vehicles, this has been what's holding me up. I had a lot of problems with the idle 1400-1700rpm. But i know have it down to around 900rpm. I used a Nissan data scan 2 , but not sure where to go from this point.

Thanks
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You really ... if all possible drive the beast at close to highway speed for at least 100 miles for the ECM, TCM to reprogram itself. I understood this after my beast sat for over a month(due to shipping it stateside) and batteries disconnected. All kinds of codes were popping up that were never present before shipping. Even after several resets of the ECM and only doing city driving had no change. But driving @ hwy speeds 55+ for about 100+ miles. It finaly started working as before. I'm not going to say that this will solve your issues, but your beast has a lot of re-learning to do after sitting for a long time. Also get some MAP sensor cleaner and spray it on. Also the trottle body. This might help with your idle issues.
 
#72 ·
[/QUOTE]
You really ... if all possible drive the beast at close to highway speed for at least 100 miles for the ECM, TCM to reprogram itself. I understood this after my beast sat for over a month(due to shipping it stateside) and batteries disconnected. All kinds of codes were popping up that were never present before shipping. Even after several resets of the ECM and only doing city driving had no change. But driving @ hwy speeds 55+ for about 100+ miles. It finaly started working as before. I'm not going to say that this will solve your issues, but your beast has a lot of re-learning to do after sitting for a long time. Also get some MAP sensor cleaner and spray it on. Also the trottle body. This might help with your idle issues.
[/QUOTE] First, I have to fix my idle, I think I messed up the TB when i was polishing it. I treat stuff like this with newer cars and I cant anymore. They are very sensitive. Next I will drop the oil pan and change the fluid. And do what you said to do above.

So i ordered a TB in decent shape,
2004 Infiniti Qx56 Throttle Valve Assembly for sale online | eBay
 
#75 ·
You really ... if all possible drive the beast at close to highway speed for at least 100 miles for the ECM, TCM to reprogram itself. I understood this after my beast sat for over a month(due to shipping it stateside) and batteries disconnected. All kinds of codes were popping up that were never present before shipping. Even after several resets of the ECM and only doing city driving had no change. But driving @ hwy speeds 55+ for about 100+ miles. It finaly started working as before. I'm not going to say that this will solve your issues, but your beast has a lot of re-learning to do after sitting for a long time. Also get some MAP sensor cleaner and spray it on. Also the trottle body. This might help with your idle issues.
[/QUOTE] First, I have to fix my idle, I think I messed up the TB when i was polishing it. I treat stuff like this with newer cars and I cant anymore. They are very sensitive. Next I will drop the oil pan and change the fluid. And do what you said to do above.

So i ordered a TB in decent shape,
2004 Infiniti Qx56 Throttle Valve Assembly for sale online | eBay
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Sorry i have been gone so long, this is just a project car. Put it on the road to drive it a few hundred miles, and after 400 miles it didn't get any better. Drives great in reverse, and drives in 5th gear, nothing else. I have an appointment with Nissan dealer on the 5th.
 
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