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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 platinum (just purchased a week ago), its getting and average of about 9.8 with 50% city and 50% hwy, i expect poor gas milage but didnt think it would be this low, i would expect around 12.5 or so any advise
 

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I just bought my Mada a few weeks ago. My first check showed me at 12.9, now I'm up to 13.2. I just ordered a Volant PowerCore cold air intake, and planning to add an exhaust mod and a tuner once I replenish funds. This is a thirsty truck that's for sure.


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Are y'all driving with the parking brake on??!!!!! I get 10-12 MPG only if I've got the truck loaded up and I'm pulling my 15 foot trailer loaded up with dirt/mulch/beach stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Brhon, when i got my the day of, it showed 15.3 so i figured i'm good, I think they towed it around before i got it to get the milage up :) i'm even driving conservative, i'm using e85 which i here isnt as efficient but would'nt think that much, as for the volant what have you heard it does on an increase? guess i can't gripe much sounds like stellato is only getting around 7mpg
 

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9 is really bad with that much hwy. I drive about 70% hwy 30% city and I am averaging 15.5-16.5 each week. Does it have oversized tires, is the 4wd engaged when it shouldn't be, parking brake hanging (this happened to a friend of mine so I would check it). I did notice when I tried E85 my mileage dropped about 3 mpg. I would go back to 87 octane the ethanol will eventually cause issues anyway. Your E85 mix in your part of the country may be even higher causing perhaps an E90 mix which would affect mpg.
 

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Medic, man I just have to say that somethin just don't sound right with that mpg's. I had a 2010 Titanium 4x4 with Big Tow; an Injen CAI, Gibson catback exhaust, and BD GT tune for midgrade and 2* advance and even with 17000 miles on the thing I was still averaging around 16.5 city/hwy mix and 18-19mpg all hwy. So maybe have your baby checked thoroughly bud.;)
 

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I have 35" nitto trails and the tow package. She is an 05 with 60k. What do you guys think is wrong that my gas mileage is so bad?? I just found an exhaust leak the other day. Is that the cause? Do i need new plugs and wires?. I got an AIRAID CAI coming this week to help.
 

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I was expecting low mileage but not quite this low. Not sure if I will see a gain in MPG with the Volant-I drive like my --- is on fire all the time so I am not surprised much that it's lower-although now it could turn into a challenge. My trip to Indy average speed on HWY was 84. I live in a northern Sub of Detroit so I have a lot of stop/start traffic.
 

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I'v been in auto instead of two wheel drive, and gonna switch back to 87 octane and put back into two wheel drive and see what that does, everyone says i should see a difference just doing that, also think i'll add the CAI just because (it can't hurt) Dealer is gonna give it a good going through next week for me to see if they can find anything.
 

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I have 35" nitto trails and the tow package. She is an 05 with 60k. What do you guys think is wrong that my gas mileage is so bad?? I just found an exhaust leak the other day. Is that the cause? Do i need new plugs and wires?. I got an AIRAID CAI coming this week to help.
Those are some big HEAVY tyres you got on there stellato. I imagine you are going to see at minimum 1-2 mpg drop just because of those... and they are not exactly made to increase mpg ;) they look DARN nice tho!! :D I'm not sure if the Exhaust leak will cause a drop in mpg or not- nor if new plugs and wires will help.

I'v been in auto instead of two wheel drive, and gonna switch back to 87 octane and put back into two wheel drive and see what that does, everyone says i should see a difference just doing that, also think i'll add the CAI just because (it can't hurt) Dealer is gonna give it a good going through next week for me to see if they can find anything.
I highly recommend going to 87 or better and staying away from any ethanol blends even if you have a dual "fuel" engine. Ethonal blends may cost less per gallon but you do not realise those savings because you get less miles out of each gallon as well. :/

i pour 87 or higher only. mine is on auto all the time. i suggest switch gas keep on auto and see. that way u eliminate one variable at a time.

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Ditto to what Richard said. Work on one thing at a time. Might take a bit longer to start but you'll get a better end result! :D
 

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idk guys. im at 4500mi and use 2wd all the time with 87oct and stay under 2500rpm, 2000rpm mostly. still getting under 11MPG doing that. seen as low as 9.4MPG. im hoping they come out with a reflash for the ECU/fuel trim parameters to adjust this crap. my srt8 jeep wasnt this bad and that thing lived about 4000rpm
 

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Hey guys, I've had a similar problem with my VK, and once and a while it never hurts to reset your throttle position sensor back to zero (you'd be amazed how much gas I was wasting at idle). I've got a slew of mods that makes my fuel efficiency irrelevant but I saw real-world gas savings of 10% instantly (albeit this may not be the same for you depending on how far off your TPS is). To make things easy heres a copy and paste of the information that I've been using from This thread here.

Best of luck, and if you do a TPS reset, remember stopwatch and patience! It never hurts to have a friend focus on the watch and dictate the instructions while your doing it so your confidant. P.s. this reset works on almost all new nissan/ infiniti's (every one I've tried so far, FX, QX, Juke, G35, Titan, Armada)

I came across this info a couple of months ago while cruising the 350Z section of the Technosquare site. With the exception of the ecu reset procedure, all the other procedures here are available in the Titan service manual. The ecu reset procedure in invaluabe, as it allows almost instant reset of the ecu's RAM instead of the usual method of disconnecting the battery and guessing as to how long you must leave it disconnected.

I think it's important to do the learning procedures periodically, as it basically recalibrates the electro-mechanical positioners, namely the throttle valve positioner and the accelerator pedal positioners. After some use, these things get a little out of whack, and get kinda lost. This can cause problems like loss of power and idle issues. This method restores the proper min/max position voltages that the ecu sees from them.

I, personally, have seen the best improvement in my engine by doing the full procedure, starting with the ecu reset, followed by the other procedures. In fact, after doing this, I got back some of my low end grunt I'd lost over the past months. I can actually catch a bit of rubber now, which I haven't been able to do for a long time! It also cured a slightly erratic idle I was having.

Give it a try, but be patient....it may take a couple (or more) tries with your stopwatch to get it right.....timing is extremely important here! (Edit: See newly added "Easy Method" below).

Note: Make sure engine is at operating temp and all electrical loads are turned off prior to doing the idle air volume learning. Don't think it matters for an ecu reset.

From Technosquare website:

Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
 

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Geez guys I was getting like 11-12mpgs doing mostly city driving and I thought that was bad. Also I've never gotten less than 350 to a tank.... I've gone almost 500 miles to a tank all high way.
 

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I'v been in auto instead of two wheel drive, and gonna switch back to 87 octane and put back into two wheel drive and see what that does, everyone says i should see a difference just doing that, also think i'll add the CAI just because (it can't hurt) Dealer is gonna give it a good going through next week for me to see if they can find anything.
My vehicle is always set on "AUTO" and I use 87 octane religiously!
 
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