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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I am bearmada from Alberta Canada, 2011 Armada platinum, 240k km. replaced driving lights , oils, fixed some oil leaks , some still in progress -waiting for parts.. Need some advise about bypassing the tranny cooling in the radiator. No problem so far with the temperature - or shifting - just the possibility of rupture in the radiator makes me worried. If someone lives in a similar cold place, please share your experience. Thank you!
 

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Yes, this is a common problem on the first gens. The transmission cooler in the radiator is actually more of a heater, designed to heat the transmission fluid up to operating temp faster. I disconnected mine, and just took some hose, and connected the inlet and outlet ports for the transmission cooler on the radiator together, so that way when the plastic barrier between the coolant and transmission fluid does let go, all of your coolant doesn't dump out of the radiator. If you have the towing package, you already have a good-sized transmission cooler in the truck, and you just need to bypass the radiator portion. If you do not have the tow package, then some sort of transmission cooler would be a good idea. You could also go with an aftermarket aluminum radiator, that will hook up exactly as the stock unit, but will not fail...either way, yes you need to do something about it, as for the most part it isn't an issue of if, but when will the stock radiator fail, and when it does your replacing the transmission, as engine coolant will kill the transmission in a hurry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick reply. I do have a tow package , but i dont tow. You reinforced my thought , that i had about the tranny cooler in the radiator. It is actually a heater, which can be beneficial in the freezing cold. -30 to -40C. I am thinking to change out the radiator for a new one. The cost is almost nothing compare to a new tranny replacement. Peace of mind. I do do most of the repairs, have access to all repair tools and to a hoist. Thank you for your time and input!
 

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Thanks for the quick reply. I do have a tow package , but i dont tow. You reinforced my thought , that i had about the tranny cooler in the radiator. It is actually a heater, which can be beneficial in the freezing cold. -30 to -40C. I am thinking to change out the radiator for a new one. The cost is almost nothing compare to a new tranny replacement. Peace of mind. I do do most of the repairs, have access to all repair tools and to a hoist. Thank you for your time and input!
No Problem...If you do replace the radiator, I would suggest one of the aftermarket ones. They shouldn't be much more than a stock replacement money-wise, and won't have the issue in the future. Both CSF and Nismo, make quality replacement units.
 

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No Problem...If you do replace the radiator, I would suggest one of the aftermarket ones. They shouldn't be much more than a stock replacement money-wise, and won't have the issue in the future. Both CSF and Nismo, make quality replacement units.
I need to see what brand radiator I have but looks like it was replaced. Mine has new hoses attached to it that are branded Goodyear.
 

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I am still searching for the replacement. Heard some horror stories with csf 2 rows. Maybe oem is they way to go. It lasted for 10 years and still ok. 245000 km as of today. Had some leaks by the hose. Replaced it with Gates tranny oil cooler hose and with a worm drive clamp.
 

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I am still searching for the replacement. Heard some horror stories with csf 2 rows. Maybe oem is they way to go. It lasted for 10 years and still ok. 245000 km as of today. Had some leaks by the hose. Replaced it with Gates tranny oil cooler hose and with a worm drive clamp.
I swapped out mine for a CSF aluminium radiator back in 2016 no issues.
 

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Did you ever do the rerouting If so which line is the return? I'm going to just eliminate the internal heat exchanger and run it right to my external cooler.
The old shade tree mechanic way of figuring out which line is which is to start the truck, put it in drive but don't go anywhere, after a couple of minutes, put it back in park, shut the truck off, and go feel each line the hotter line is going to the radiator the cooler of the two is the return.
 

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I swapped out mine for a CSF aluminium radiator back in 2016 no issues.
Me too - went with Amazon.com: CSF 3328 High Performance Radiator : Automotive.

From what I recall I had to do some slight trimming of the fan shroud but other than that it was pretty plug and play.

I didn't like the thought of losing the tranny warmer as I recall being on several trips where it barely got above the cold level.

I used a new cap and new hoses and filled with the Nissan antifreeze and it worked well and fixed my no heat issue (as well as the cracked OEM radiator).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Me too - went with Amazon.com: CSF 3328 High Performance Radiator : Automotive.

From what I recall I had to do some slight trimming of the fan shroud but other than that it was pretty plug and play.

I didn't like the thought of losing the tranny warmer as I recall being on several trips where it barely got above the cold level.

I used a new cap and new hoses and filled with the Nissan antifreeze and it worked well and fixed my no heat issue (as well as the cracked OEM radiator).
No Problem...If you do replace the radiator, I would suggest one of the aftermarket ones. They shouldn't be much more than a stock replacement money-wise, and won't have the issue in the future. Both CSF and Nismo, make quality replacement units.
I had to replace the a/c condenser and the mech noticed some blue crust where plastic tank meet the core. I ordered thru my kid - as i live in canada and stillen wont deliver here - a stillen 401446 radiator. They sent a champion radiator cc9126. It came with ups and banged up a bit , but still good. It came with 2 brass nipple. Brass and aluminum is not a good combo. I called stillen and champion cooling system and they said that the nipples and petcock is brass. they have no others, and it shouldnt be a problem. However i am worried that living in the rustbelt the salt and water will act as an electrolyte and it will rust out. Anybody had an issue with that, or it is just marginal?
 
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