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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I came home on Friday to find a green puddle under the right-rear tailpipe of our '04 Armada. After further inspection, it looks like a small rubber tube that runs right along the frame rubbed a hole in the high-pressure side of the refrigerant line that feed the rear air evap unit. The green liquid is apparently the system lubricant. Woohoo!

After doing some research, I have found replacing the line set would be a pain in the @$$ and nearly impossible for me to do. So, I have decided I am going to try to pick up a couple stainless steel compression fittings and some steel 1/4" line. I'm going to cut the line and splice in the new line. I have done this on our home refrigeration line, I hope this works. I'm then going to take it to my buddy's shop where we will vacuum the system down and recharge.

Has anyone tried this? Wish me luck
 

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Check to be sure that the leak isn't from one of the lines to the rear heater, and that the liquid may be coolant.
These lines are metric size, so it may be hard to find a fitting that will fit.
 

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if

so if your sure your leaking refrigerant then you shouldn't have no ac at all. well for one that really sucks. hope goes well. The refrigerant lines are normally made with aluminum. the green thing is refrigerant dye. I know there is a tsb or recall for vehicles sold in the northern states due to salt that is used on the roads. nissan kind of messed up and used rubber holders for these lines and when salt gets in between the lines and holder it rubs to much and causes corrosion. check out the tsb's kind of a pain to get it though. I'll see if I can come up with it. I would try to reroute the lines somewhere else and leave the existing junk lines there. I think it would be best if you put some type of insulation. it'll prevent further debree from damaging the lines and will help with cooling. GOOD LUCK!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check to be sure that the leak isn't from one of the lines to the rear heater, and that the liquid may be coolant.
These lines are metric size, so it may be hard to find a fitting that will fit.
I wish it was the coolant line that busted. That would be an easy fix. Unfortunately, it is the refrigerant line. With the green lubricant leaking out, you can see/hear the gas slowly escaping. That green lubricant doesn't smell like the coolant. I measured the line and it is slightly larger than 1/4" OD. I'm going to have to see if I can find metric-sized compression fittings. Can anyone confirm the sizes?

so if your sure your leaking refrigerant then you shouldn't have no ac at all. well for one that really sucks. hope goes well. The refrigerant lines are normally made with aluminum. the green thing is refrigerant dye. I know there is a tsb or recall for vehicles sold in the northern states due to salt that is used on the roads. nissan kind of messed up and used rubber holders for these lines and when salt gets in between the lines and holder it rubs to much and causes corrosion. check out the tsb's kind of a pain to get it though. I'll see if I can come up with it. I would try to reroute the lines somewhere else and leave the existing junk lines there. I think it would be best if you put some type of insulation. it'll prevent further debree from damaging the lines and will help with cooling. GOOD LUCK!
Thanks! Unfortunately regarding the TSB's, the car is from New Mexico and I'm in Colorado, so I'm not sure if the TSB's will apply. If this fix doesn't work. I'll probably pick up a new Nissan lineset, and paint it so it doesn't corrode and I'll make sure none of the lines are rubbing against eachother or on anything.

Grrrrr...if this would have only happened in the fall, I could take my time with this and not be rushed. Oh well. I hope the compression fittings work.
 

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I wish it was the coolant line that busted. That would be an easy fix. Unfortunately, it is the refrigerant line. With the green lubricant leaking out, you can see/hear the gas slowly escaping. That green lubricant doesn't smell like the coolant. I measured the line and it is slightly larger than 1/4" OD. I'm going to have to see if I can find metric-sized compression fittings. Can anyone confirm the sizes?



Thanks! Unfortunately regarding the TSB's, the car is from New Mexico and I'm in Colorado, so I'm not sure if the TSB's will apply. If this fix doesn't work. I'll probably pick up a new Nissan lineset, and paint it so it doesn't corrode and I'll make sure none of the lines are rubbing against eachother or on anything.

Grrrrr...if this would have only happened in the fall, I could take my time with this and not be rushed. Oh well. I hope the compression fittings work.
You can try to find an a/c shop that custom makes a/c lines. A good a/c shop can make a new hi pressure line for the rear a/c using barrier hose crimped onto the factory fittings and run it along the frame thus eliminating the need to lift the body off the frame to replace the aluminum line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update...

IT WORKED!!! I picked up (2) 5/16" brass compression unions and a 16" long section of 5/16" hard steel brake line. I cut out the section of line from the straight section on the frame rail to the 90* bend before it enters the vehicle. Instead of running the line back up and over the frame rail, I just dropped the line under the frame rail and reconnected the lines. I pressure tested it and had a shop vacuum down the system and recharge. The repair is holding and the A/C is blowing colder than ever (58* discharge air temp.)

This repair cost right at $140.00----$5.00 in parts, $105.00 for the recharge, and $30.00 for a can of refrigerant (to test the system before I took it to the shop).

If anyone wants a picture, let me know and I will take one tonight and post it up.
 

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hey i have the exact same problem. do you know what the dealer would charge?

my a/c wasn't blowing as cold so i got it diagnosed at an indy place. it turns out it is leaking right by the exhaust part, but it looks like the leak is comin from the stainless steel tube.

so was there an actual recall on it? anyone else have this problem? i am planning a straight 16 hour road in 2 weeks, so if its too pricey to fix at the dealership, maybe i will just recharge the a/c right before my roadtrip only and fix the leak later on...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dragon. From the research I did I found:

1) The lineset consists of (4) lines: the high pressure and low pressure refrigerant lines and the supply and return lines for the rear heating coil
2) The Lineset from the dealership was around $230 including tax from the dealership. I never did get a quote to replace the lineset.
3) To replace the lineset, you need to raise the body off the frame to remove the old lineset and install the new. HOWEVER, someone posted they were able to remove the lineset without lifting the body off the frame by removing the front and rear wheel well covers, running board and fan schroud.

Obviously, I tried the compression fitting method. It works great and has been holding for a couple weeks now. The fix only took an hour. I have no idea about any recalls, hopefully someone else can chime in. Good luck.
 

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ok thanks a lot. yeah the repair guy did say the linset consists of 4 lines. can u take a pic of yours? congrats on your nice home repair...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
No problem. Here is a pic of what the leak looked like and the factory layout of the lineset. I realized I don't have a picture of the repair. I will get that tonight and post it up.

The damaged line was the smallest line located nearest the framerail. The damaged part was actually up higher and is not in the picture. If you look right behind the tire on the lower right hand side of the picture, you will see a small steel line coming down from the outside of the framerail. That is the same refrigerant line. I cut the line nearest the framerail right before it bent up and over the framerail and I cut the lower line right after the 90* bend. I used the 5/8" brake line and compression fitting to splice the line together.

 

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thanks a lot
 

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hey i notice that when the fan is blowing, for the heater, it makes this humming noise now, in the compartment above where the ac line is, inside the car, in the trunk area, the right passenger side. is it because my a/c line has a leak its making that humming noise? did you have that noise when you found out the leak? when i turn off the vent system, the noise goes away...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hey i notice that when the fan is blowing, for the heater, it makes this humming noise now, in the compartment above where the ac line is, inside the car, in the trunk area, the right passenger side. is it because my a/c line has a leak its making that humming noise? did you have that noise when you found out the leak? when i turn off the vent system, the noise goes away...
I did not have any noise associated with the leak. I have heard the A/C compressor can whine when the system is low on charge, but that is it. However, recently I did have a humming noise coming from our front blower. I unbolted the blower motor with wheel (4 bolts in the footwell and was out) and wiped down the blower housing and blew off the little dust there was on the motor and wheel with my air compressor and it eliminated the humming noise. I know you said it was on the rear, but you may try pulling the rear blower motor and blowing it off. It may solve that humming issue.
 

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ok thanks a lot...
 

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Dealing with this now on our 2005 armada. Thanks for the help.
 

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I had a huge one about the same area filled the ac with R134a turn the ac to max
Green dye was on the pipe but at first the rear right tire started to look like there was smoke coming from it turn ac off saw the green dye local mechanic was able to fix it for 200$ parts and labor he said the truck needs 4 cans of R134a is that true ?
Cause it still isn't that cold even when on max
 

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Would you mind posting a step by step how to with pics to how everyone exactly how you did this repair?

I worry that more will have the issue as the years go on (including myself)


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Just tried this repair and it came out pretty good. It was pretty easy. Here are a few pictures
 

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