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I was wondering if anyone has had the rear AC lines repaired without having to replace the whole assembly from front to back? I already had these lines replaced back in 2012 on my 08 Armada and now there is a new leak where the small high pressure line enters the rear evaporator. I refuse to pay for this again as I think the whole design concept is totally flawed. During my research of this problem, I found a TSB (NTB08-110) that was issued back in 2008 which was supposed to provide all dealers with a tool kit to repair these lines on the vehicle. Despite this, it seems that most (if not all) dealers convince their customers that the only way to fix this problem is to replace the complete assembly (4 lines approx. 12' long), thereby requiring the separation of the body from the chassis to accommodate this. The tool manufacturer claims that it works fine and that GM uses it. I'm curious as to why Nissan dealers don't even acknowledge it exits.

Thanks.

Here is a link to the TSB. http://www.370zcoupe.com/TSB/1SD30.pdf
 

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Try replacing the O-rings first

When we bought our 2005 LE almost a year ago, the AC did not work because all the freon had leaked out--went through the evacuate and recharge cycles several times before eventually replacing the O-rings with slightly larger O-rings and this finally worked. No leaking since!

I tried replacing them myself, and is easy to do, but shops will have kits with various sizes of O-rings if you need them--Yes, I even bought that assortment kit from Pep Boys, but the guys at my shop used a size they had that was larger, so I don't recall if that big kit had the size they used.

Good luck!
 

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Had a line repaired on my 2010 two years ago. Comment from dealer invoice("A pin hole on the rear high pressure A/C line by the right side front pipe. Repaired high pressure line with Nissan approved compression fittings. Recharged A/C system and rechecked for leaks - OK no leaks vent temp is at 29F.") Haven't had a problem since. Charge was $400.00, but, I'm sure a qualified mechanic could do the same job for 1/2 the price. There were no specifics on the fittings used.
 

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I just discovered I have a pin hole on my high pressure line on my 04 armada and after doing some research I found this video on youtube. I just placed my order for splice lok kit which only costs $22 all materials you will need is in the video and total is $50 versus $400 plus and will attempt to fix it next Friday. I will post once completed to let you know how it turned out.

For some reason I couldn't post the link for the video but go to youtube and type in splice lok and its the first video. Go to amazon and look it up and you will find it there
 

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I just discovered I have a pin hole on my high pressure line on my 04 armada and after doing some research I found this video on youtube. I just placed my order for splice lok kit which only costs $22 all materials you will need is in the video and total is $50 versus $400 plus and will attempt to fix it next Friday. I will post once completed to let you know how it turned out.

For some reason I couldn't post the link for the video but go to youtube and type in splice lok and its the first video. Go to amazon and look it up and you will find it there
My friend was able to assist me in checking out my rear AC leak and found a similar problem it a small pin hole on the 2015 Armada. Picture attach.



47719



How did yours turn out? I'm looking for this kit you speak of any URLs?
Code:
www.youtube.com/results?search_query=splice+lok
This Youtube one?
 

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I was wondering if anyone has had the rear AC lines repaired without having to replace the whole assembly from front to back? I already had these lines replaced back in 2012 on my 08 Armada and now there is a new leak where the small high pressure line enters the rear evaporator. I refuse to pay for this again as I think the whole design concept is totally flawed. During my research of this problem, I found a TSB (NTB08-110) that was issued back in 2008 which was supposed to provide all dealers with a tool kit to repair these lines on the vehicle. Despite this, it seems that most (if not all) dealers convince their customers that the only way to fix this problem is to replace the complete assembly (4 lines approx. 12' long), thereby requiring the separation of the body from the chassis to accommodate this. The tool manufacturer claims that it works fine and that GM uses it. I'm curious as to why Nissan dealers don't even acknowledge it exits.

Thanks.

Here is a link to the TSB.
This kit can't be ordering anymore 2019 as they stop making them from what I'm told.
 

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The small line is the high pressure line and is 5/16”. You can search on amazon for “ac splice 5/16” for the options. It may be difficult to physically access the line to cut it and install the splice. You could also try plugging the hole with JB weld. This seems to have worked for some people but I am skeptical. The other option is to block off the rear AC entirely which is what I finally ended up doing. They make kits for that also.
 

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Fixed our Pathfinder last month with this. It wasn't to bad but you have to be careful to not cut too much line off. I only took a little over an inch and barely got the splice installed. If it's a big hole I imagine that you could use two splices and add a new piece of tubing.

Paul


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Yup, that ^^^

I just did my a week or so ago but my problem was multiple pin holes along the small line all the way up towards the front.

I didn't have the time or really want to snake a new line front to back so I just blocked off mine at the front. You can get the Dorman pieces on Amazon/eBay or if you are in a hurry like I was NAPA carries them in stock, both the line splices and line block offs...you will pay more however.
The small line is 5/16" and the big line is 5/8"

I blocked off mine right at the passenger wheel well, really easy to get to.
The front ac has enough power to cool the whole truck too, the other day it was 98 degrees with a feels like temp of 111, the 'mada had sat all day in the sun (with black interior), I went out started it up and by the time I drove a block and a half it was cool in there....at about a mile it was VERY cold.

47828

47829

47830
 

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I read all these threads saying the Armada can blow ice cold, but I just don't have that with mine. I can usually keep it at 60F and full fan for a 30 minute drive and not be ice cold. It usually won't get ice cold until you're on a 1+ hour trip on the freeway. I'm pretty sure I need to replace my condenser fan, but that wouldn't affect it when I'm driving at higher speeds (since the airspeed would provide more airflow than the fan itself).

The rear lines were replaced about 1.5 years ago and the system was obviously evac'd and recharged during that process.

I have two out of three of my vehicles with mediocre AC and I just don't know enough about AC systems to be able to diagnose it myself. Every time I take it somewhere, they say it is operating within the required specifications, even though I know was ice cold AC can feel like and these vehicles are nowhere near that. I swear the compressor in my Ford Fusion needs to be replaced, but I've had several mechanics tell me they can't find anything wrong with it and that's a $700+ gamble I'm not willing to take right now.
 

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Using an AC thermometer my ac sits right at the lower end of the green zone which puts it right around 38 degrees at the vents +-. That was on that 98 degree day with high humidity.
That's with the controls set to 60, on recirc and fan on high.

It gets chilly in there!!!

Not my pic
47838
 

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Geez, I don't have the thermometer in my Armada, but my Fusion will usually take about 10 minutes to get to the high end of the 40 range, maybe 43-45 and it takes forever to feel ice cold (usually 30+ minute car trips, which I rarely do). And the Armada usually feels warmer than the Fusion. How does yours do when idle? I'm pretty sure I need to replace my condenser fan, because at idle, it is almost warm (I'd say mid to high 50s, but I'll have to pull the thermometer out of the Fusion to test it sometime), but as I said above, I don't think that is the only issue. I'm in high-90s weather with little to no humidity (but it was the same in VA, with similar temps and much higher humidity).

Maybe I just need to find someone here that specializes in AC or wait until I head down to my in-laws, who live in St George, UT (similar weather to Vegas), as maybe they are more specialized in AC since it is miserable down there with mediocre AC where it is bearable up here with it.
 

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At idle sitting at a light it will climb to just above the high end of the green zone.
Granted, these beasts don't have the best ac setup for sitting at lights or idling around town stuck in traffic.
 

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Still sounds like yours is more of what I expected from the Armada. From what you're saying, it seems mine is consistently 10-15F warmer than yours in similar situations.
 

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Hello,
The rear line corrosion on these trucks is generally a very easy repair. The link is a company that I have used many times and never had one come back leaking. They will make it in just about any size or length you need. And just a FYI if your Armada isn't blowing ice cubes.....then you likely have an issue as these systems work as well as any out there. Also if you have rear air you should ALWAYS run both systems if you have the A/C on.

https://www.autocoolingsolutions.co...pjN-VgBp2RudvJP-CPHpHDwZMj3ATOqRoCgpgQAvD_BwE
 

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That's a pretty good website!
Thanks for the link, Saved for future reference. (y)
 

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Hello,
The rear line corrosion on these trucks is generally a very easy repair. The link is a company that I have used many times and never had one come back leaking. They will make it in just about any size or length you need. And just a FYI if your Armada isn't blowing ice cubes.....then you likely have an issue as these systems work as well as any out there. Also if you have rear air you should ALWAYS run both systems if you have the A/C on.

AC Line Repair Kit 3/8" TR6
Old thread but when under the truck I noticed green liquid where the ac lines enter the cabin.

I understand the procedure here but does anyone have a video or pics? I'm imagining you take a tubing cutter before/after the leak and then you install the appropriate sized hose.

I'll probably wait until Spring to address this (just starting winter now). I am also not sure exactly where the leak is from - could be a line or the actual connection into the cabin.

I saw one poster had stated they replaced the o-rings on the cabin connection and that didn't work so had to use teflon tape as well.

Any advice would be great.
 

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When I had my fix I just bought it from the dealer like 3 days before I went back to them and had them fix it. But from my understanding, the pipe goes the full length of the SUV and the car has to be separated from the frame/base and then a new pipe lay in it. So stupid design IMHO, sorry I can't give more insight.
 
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