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When I had my fix I just bought it from the dealer like 3 days before I went back to them and had them fix it. But from my understanding, the pipe goes the full length of the SUV and the car has to be separated from the frame/base and then a new pipe lay in it. So stupid design IMHO, sorry I can't give more insight.
Thanks for the reply. That was the official "Nissan" fix but then they started using splice kits.

Others have had luck with the same and it prevents having to lift the truck off the frame. That's the route I will go.
 

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I know there are a ton of threads out there but I'm not sure which one to follow. I have the problem with the lines leaking right in front of the rear passenger wheel where it's mounted to the body. I want to reroute the lines since the bracket is rusted on and I can't get it off so I will need to cut the lines while they are on the truck.

Will this work?


 

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I know there are a ton of threads out there but I'm not sure which one to follow. I have the problem with the lines leaking right behind passenger rear wheel where it's mounted to the body. I want to reroute the lines since the bracket is rusted on and I can't get it off so I will need to cut the lines while they are on the truck.

Will this work?


Yep...just cut out the bad part. Take your time and make sure you have the compression fitting on all the way as you tighten it.......it tries to back off the line.
 

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Not sure I follow. If I only order one of the 5/16's kit, I still won't have enough connectors to move both A/C lines. so wouldn't i need 2 of those the 5/16's kits so I can move them both and remount to another location? Or should I just order one kit and get another set of adapters and cut the hose that comes with the full kit? And if I'm hearing you correctly, I don't need to move the heater lines 5/8 inch lines and can leave them as be?

Edit: Ahh, looked at the picture again, there is only 1 5/16 and 3 5/8's hence the need for only one kit.

Has anyone tried using MAPP gas, hand held torch and an aluminum rod to try and patch the holes in the aluminum? Thinking about trying that before rerouting the AC line.
 

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Has anyone tried using MAPP gas, hand held torch and an aluminum rod to try and patch the holes in the aluminum? Thinking about trying that before rerouting the AC line.
Repairing it with that hose splice literally takes about 15 minutes. I have never had any luck with the aluminum rod MAPP gas method on an AC line ever! Back in the early 90s when that first came out we thought we were really on to something. We were never able to successfully repair a line.
 

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What did you use to cut the aluminum run? I can't get a tool on top of the line so would have to cut from the bottom up. Worried about pinching it closed. I have the splice kit coming today so will definitely give it a try just need to know what to use to cut it.
 

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What did you use to cut the aluminum run? I can't get a tool on top of the line so would have to cut from the bottom up. Worried about pinching it closed. I have the splice kit coming today so will definitely give it a try just need to know what to use to cut it.
Okay with all due respect this might be out of your wheelhouse. You have to use a pipe cutter. You will need to remove the bracket then the pipes out use a pipe cutter clean it very well and then use the compression fitting. And you are correct you cannot damage that pipe in any way or it will never seal. If you're not 100% comfortable I suggest you find a repair shop to do it for you. You are only going to get one opportunity to repair this without replacing a very large section of line.
 

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No offense taken. I'm sure you didn't nail it your first go round. My only concern is getting the old run out first. I can only get the current piece away from the body/mounting bracket an inch or so. Will need to get it up on a lift so I can get a good look. Appreciate the advice. Doesn't sound to be too hard but more of a pain than anything. Would love to learn how to do it, maybe I'll pick up a piece of 5/16 inch aluminum and practice on it before trying it on the truck.
 

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No offense taken. I'm sure you didn't nail it your first go round. My only concern is getting the old run out first. I can only get the current piece away from the body/mounting bracket an inch or so. Will need to get it up on a lift so I can get a good look. Appreciate the advice. Doesn't sound to be too hard but more of a pain than anything. Would love to learn how to do it, maybe I'll pick up a piece of 5/16 inch aluminum and practice on it before trying it on the truck.
I replace approx 12" or so. It leaks at the bracket. Use zip ties to secure it (loosely) when finished.
 

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No offense taken. I'm sure you didn't nail it your first go round. My only concern is getting the old run out first. I can only get the current piece away from the body/mounting bracket an inch or so. Will need to get it up on a lift so I can get a good look. Appreciate the advice. Doesn't sound to be too hard but more of a pain than anything. Would love to learn how to do it, maybe I'll pick up a piece of 5/16 inch aluminum and practice on it before trying it on the truck.
Any update on how it turned out?
 
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