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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently rotated my tires and noticed both rear wheels had excessive wear on the inside. I then did a visual on the camber and did a rough measure with a straight edge and angle finder on the wheel itself and found the angle to be approximately -1.4 degrees.

Anyone else have (had) this problem?

BTW...I have never had any alignment adjustment.

Also, is there any impact of the self-leveling shocks on camber. I noticed existing wheel well height to be at 35.4" where specs call for just over 36".

Wonder if the camber adjustment is covered under warranty?

Thanks,

Kevin (04 Armada LE)
 

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Sand_Warrior said:
I recently rotated my tires and noticed both rear wheels had excessive wear on the inside. I then did a visual on the camber and did a rough measure with a straight edge and angle finder on the wheel itself and found the angle to be approximately -1.4 degrees.

Anyone else have (had) this problem?

BTW...I have never had any alignment adjustment.

Also, is there any impact of the self-leveling shocks on camber. I noticed existing wheel well height to be at 35.4" where specs call for just over 36".

Wonder if the camber adjustment is covered under warranty?

Thanks,

Kevin (04 Armada LE)
Hi Kevin,
They should adjust that under warranty.The LE has the bigtow and airbag self leveling rear suspension. It sounds like it is out of alignment, which isn't caused by wear/etc. for example by hitting a pothole. Its a factory defect and they should fix it under warranty. They may even replace your tires if they wore prematurely due to this.
;)
 

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How many miles? The inside edges of my rears were toast at 7k and Nissan replaced the rear tires and sent it out to a independent alignment shop as theirs was not capable of doing the alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cillyone said:
How many miles? The inside edges of my rears were toast at 7k and Nissan replaced the rear tires and sent it out to a independent alignment shop as theirs was not capable of doing the alignment.
I've got 26500 on odometer right now. Did you have any rear height issue? I ask because the specs on alignment say to check vehicle height first before adjusting the camber. Mine was a 1/2 inch low in the rear. I rotated the rear air bag sensor counter-clockwise about 1/8" and it brought it up to within specs. Although, the dealer adjustment is done through the computer programming. What tires did you have on yours...I've got the Continentals. :(

Thanks....Kevin
 

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Conti's here too. Looked up the 04 rear wheel well height spec and it is 36.81" (935mm) +/- 0.39"(10mm) for the air suspension 4x4 and 36.02" (915mm) w/same tolerance for the air suspension 4x2. I did not measure it before dealer worked on it, but looked tonight and it is 36-7/8"
 

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Sand_Warrior said:
I recently rotated my tires and noticed both rear wheels had excessive wear on the inside. I then did a visual on the camber and did a rough measure with a straight edge and angle finder on the wheel itself and found the angle to be approximately -1.4 degrees.

Anyone else have (had) this problem?

BTW...I have never had any alignment adjustment.

Also, is there any impact of the self-leveling shocks on camber. I noticed existing wheel well height to be at 35.4" where specs call for just over 36".

Wonder if the camber adjustment is covered under warranty?

Thanks,

Kevin (04 Armada LE)

Camber by itself normally is not a tire killer.. It is the toe in or out associtated with camber that scrubs the tires prematurly. If your rear tires are at 0 total toe then you most likley would not see the inside tire wear.

Thing is that increased toe can add grip under cornering plus high speed stability. So running 0 toe is not necessarily desireable.

If your ride heights changed beyond spec then your camber and more importantly toe could be off out of spec too.

I think most manufactuerers provide one warranty alignment within the first few months or however many miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ChuckD said:
Camber by itself normally is not a tire killer.. It is the toe in or out associtated with camber that scrubs the tires prematurly. If your rear tires are at 0 total toe then you most likley would not see the inside tire wear.

Thing is that increased toe can add grip under cornering plus high speed stability. So running 0 toe is not necessarily desireable.

If your ride heights changed beyond spec then your camber and more importantly toe could be off out of spec too.

I think most manufactuerers provide one warranty alignment within the first few months or however many miles.
The inside edges were worn with no scalloping or feathering...just smooth wear. Same goes for the outside edges so I dont think the toe is out of spec.
Here's the specs for camber on the 2004 with air leveling:
Minimum: 0.0 degrees
Nominal: -0.5 degrees
Maximum:-1.0 degrees
The angle is definitely visible by eye from the front and especially looking at it from the rear. Hopefully it is the toe...which might explain why I had a drop of 1 mpg in the last 3 months!
 

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Sand_Warrior said:
The inside edges were worn with no scalloping or feathering...just smooth wear. Same goes for the outside edges so I dont think the toe is out of spec.
Here's the specs for camber on the 2004 with air leveling:
Minimum: 0.0 degrees
Nominal: -0.5 degrees
Maximum:-1.0 degrees
The angle is definitely visible by eye from the front and especially looking at it from the rear. Hopefully it is the toe...which might explain why I had a drop of 1 mpg in the last 3 months!
With my toy/weekend/track car I run about -2degrees of camber in the rear and 3/32nds toe in. It wears the inside half of my street tires tread about 3/8s inch faster than the outside half. It sure does stick good though! I get no scalloping or feathering either.

Being a 32nd or 16th out of range is not alot and will wear the tires prematurly and quite possibly not show really bad symtoms other than accelerated wear.
 

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Sand_Warrior said:
Looks like your height is spot on!

What kind of toyhauler you pull?
I have a 2003 Rage'n 2124c LX. Pretty nice unit after I gutted the lame OEM charging system and put in the 45 amp IOTA, now when the generator runs the batteries see some real action instead of only 3 lousy amps. Good fit and finish and built like a tank (I-beam frame rails) and love the smooth sides for easier maintenance. We keep it at our property most of the time when we are not towing it so it doubles as a cabin a good part of the year.

How about yourself, what are you towing and how do you like it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cillyone said:
I have a 2003 Rage'n 2124c LX. Pretty nice unit after I gutted the lame OEM charging system and put in the 45 amp IOTA, now when the generator runs the batteries see some real action instead of only 3 lousy amps. Good fit and finish and built like a tank (I-beam frame rails) and love the smooth sides for easier maintenance. We keep it at our property most of the time when we are not towing it so it doubles as a cabin a good part of the year.

How about yourself, what are you towing and how do you like it?
Cillyone...
I currently dont have one...yet. Down south here, I work in RV sales and 97% of our biz is the Weekend Warriors. The Ragen is a great unit. Warrior took over Ragen about a year ago and they have been doing well. Regarding the converter change out...do you have the option between trickle (3 volt) and quick charge (16.4volt) like the Warrior has? The converter has a bypass loop wire that you plug in...looks like a telephone jack. The quick charge restores batt charge in about 1.5 hours on the gen or pole power.
 

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Yes, I put in a switch to the RJ jack so I could manually go from fast charge to float charge. IOTA offers an automatic control that plugs in also, but I was too cheap to purchase it, I also wanted to know that I was charging the batteries at max rate. A word of warning, a really sharp electrical engineer that I know who recommended the converter warned there might be possible damage to the converter if the generator runs out of gas when in high current charging situation. I believe it is the current that changes (0-45amps) mostly between the fast charge and float charge modes. The voltage does change but only from about 13.2 volts (float voltage) to over 14v (fast charge).
Yes, I know about Nat RV selling Rage'n & Blaze'n to WW, they took over my warranty. I will most likely never use it though, because I think I can fix any problems with a higher degree of workmanship and attention to detail than any RV dealer tech. I looked at WW when I bought and they just didn't seem as structurally sturdy as the Rage'n & Blaze'n line. Plus, I got a great deal on a left-over loaded display unit. Besides the electrical shortcomings (solved in spades) the only possible complaint is the weight, but I do not mind because I would not want to give up the robust construction anyway. I think we have hijacked this thread long enough, maybe we should start a thread in the towing section.
 
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