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One is for the hatch to open... The other is for the hatch window to open. I'm not sure which is which without going back in and looking.
 

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What does the cable on the right do? Mine is missing. Everything seems to work fine though???

The one on the right (pink clip is on the right) is for the hatch. On the left is for the hatch glass.

Just did this repair today. Used a 5/64" drill bit for the hole for the straw. Didn't bother taping the hole, as there isn't any appreciable dirt in the area and there are other openings in that box, as evidenced when I overfilled it with spray.
 

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Ok guy I too was having the same problem, no matter what I did the problem continues. It sucks when your locked out of the truck especially when it is full of grocery as one said. Ok later on the doorwould not stay closed. i found the bolts that holds the striker (section that lift gate locks into was loosed, got that all tightened up after come major hassle and now the doors rumbles like it is not closed properly. More problems now.
 

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Is the door fully latched? Put your hand under the bottom of the hatch and give a wiggle. It shouldn't rattle. If it does, it's not fully latched. For me, that meant the latch needed to be adjusted at the door sill, the metal loop that the hatch grabs on to. When I had it too far toward the front of the truck, the hatch couldn't get to the second latch position unless I really slammed the hatch.

Trial and error on adjusting that loop.
 

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Hi,

Bringing this back to the top. We got my wife a 2010 Titanium last year without a power lift gate and I had to do the DIY fix. I've had to do this fix 3-4 times now and am willing to just bite the bullet and get a new actuator. Does anyone have a source to get a replacement actuator at or below dealer cost? TIA.

Rick
 

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Hello all. I am having a problem related to this and could use your help:

I cannot currently open the back hatch or the window of our Armada. Even if I crawl in the back and put that little switch down, it still won't unlatch. I can hear the mechanism "work" when I click the remote, but it will not disengage. I've already tried spraying lubricant back there.

Anybody have a though on how to get the lock to disengage?

Thanks
 

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What year is your car?
We're there any signs of a failure beforehand?

If you are handy with tools and such, grab the service manual off the interwebs and study the diagram on that back door mechanism.
 

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What year is your car?
We're there any signs of a failure beforehand?

If you are handy with tools and such, grab the service manual off the interwebs and study the diagram on that back door mechanism.
It is a 2007 Nissan Armada. I can't say there was signs of failure beforehand. I just shut the hatch and now I can't get it open even while crawling in the back and releasing that latch. I don't think I can access the back innards of the mechanism because the door is shut.
 

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[2011 Armada] Rear Hatch Issues

So, my wife's 2011 Armada has an issue that happens occasionally - the rear hatch refuses to open. It happened last when she was out the other day and carrying some stuff. The glass upper window opened, but the whole door refused to open. She gets home and tells me about this (not the first tie it has happened), and we go check on it, and it opens fine. Anyone with ideas?
 

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Just a pure guess; hoping it's something simple and you've probably already checked this.

Can you hear the latch unlatching? Could the door not be closing properly (all the way), placing too much pressure on the latch so it's not releasing?
 

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Looking for a source on part 905027S400.. there is tell of it costing around 100 bucks on here, but eBay seems to be 3x to 5x that price.

Can anyone suggest a better source?
 

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It seems that the part originally on my 2011 (which appears to mean 2008 to 2012) has been replaced by 90330-ZZ90A according to my local dealership. They gave me a printout for my quote, but scratched out the part number (at least tried to) and said, "We don't give out part numbers." Because and educated consumer is obviously not what they want. Found it online for $118.20 + ~$18 for shipping.

I had done all the lube tricks and had success for some time. But, now, I just don't want to deal with it any more. Certain weather (high humidity) seems to render is useless (climb in the back, and flip the lever). Here's hoping it is actuator motor, and not gummed up lock (where you are flipping the lever). I may replace both. Either way, I'll update this forums. This thread seems to have a lot of answers, but no real answer to the question about replacing the part.
 

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It seems that the part originally on my 2011 (which appears to mean 2008 to 2012) has been replaced by 90330-ZZ90A according to my local dealership. They gave me a printout for my quote, but scratched out the part number (at least tried to) and said, "We don't give out part numbers." Because and educated consumer is obviously not what they want. Found it online for $118.20 + ~$18 for shipping.

I had done all the lube tricks and had success for some time. But, now, I just don't want to deal with it any more. Certain weather (high humidity) seems to render is useless (climb in the back, and flip the lever). Here's hoping it is actuator motor, and not gummed up lock (where you are flipping the lever). I may replace both. Either way, I'll update this forums. This thread seems to have a lot of answers, but no real answer to the question about replacing the part.
Great info. Were you able to replace the part and did that help? I googled the part# and see the same price. Was hoping you had luck before I purchased.

TIA
 

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Great info. Were you able to replace the part and did that help? I googled the part# and see the same price. Was hoping you had luck before I purchased.

TIA
Meh. . . . So, it took two days for tasca parts dot com to reach out to me to let me know that the part was not a match for my VIN. "Unfortunately, the lock you purchased isn't showing as compatible for your vehicle per the VIN provided; however, the correct one has been discontinued." To which I replied that my local dealership told me that the original part was replaced with the one I was ordering. Now, they are waiting for the "special ordered" part to arrive at their warehouse so they can send it to me.

Still waiting. . . .I'll keep you posted.

Funny, now that it is sunny and hot here in the Austin area, unlike a week ago, the lock is working fine. But, it is soooo freaking frustrating when it gets cold or rainy, and the damned thing won't unlock.
 

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Meh. . . . So, it took two days for tasca parts dot com to reach out to me to let me know that the part was not a match for my VIN. "Unfortunately, the lock you purchased isn't showing as compatible for your vehicle per the VIN provided; however, the correct one has been discontinued." To which I replied that my local dealership told me that the original part was replaced with the one I was ordering. Now, they are waiting for the "special ordered" part to arrive at their warehouse so they can send it to me.

Still waiting. . . .I'll keep you posted.

Funny, now that it is sunny and hot here in the Austin area, unlike a week ago, the lock is working fine. But, it is soooo freaking frustrating when it gets cold or rainy, and the damned thing won't unlock.
Thanks for the update. I've done the DIY fix also, multiple times. Even down here in the Tampa, Fl area right now the fix has "un-fixed" itself. I too am sick of either climbing back there or using my stick I leave in the back to flip the switch. I may try to just order the part direct but if you get a part# from your special order please share. TIA
 

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Thanks for the update. I've done the DIY fix also, multiple times. Even down here in the Tampa, Fl area right now the fix has "un-fixed" itself. I too am sick of either climbing back there or using my stick I leave in the back to flip the switch. I may try to just order the part direct but if you get a part# from your special order please share. TIA
Coincidentally, it just shipped (as in, they printed a label, it isn't really on a truck yet).

Shipment Details
Part NumberPart NamePriceQuantityTotal
90330-ZZ90ALock$118.2010
Subtotal:$118.20
Shipping (UPS - Ground):$21.70
Total:$139.90
 

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Coincidentally, it just shipped (as in, they printed a label, it isn't really on a truck yet).

Shipment Details

Part NumberPart NamePriceQuantityTotal
90330-ZZ90ALock$118.2010

Subtotal:$118.20
Shipping (UPS - Ground):$21.70
Total:$139.90
Thanks. My local dealers have it for around $185. Need it before next weekend so probably just going to pick one up from them. Wish I could wait to save some cash but tht's the price for convenience I guess. I'll post an update here also after I install. Hopefully that resolves the issue.
 

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Thanks. My local dealers have it for around $185. Need it before next weekend so probably just going to pick one up from them. Wish I could wait to save some cash but tht's the price for convenience I guess. I'll post an update here also after I install. Hopefully that resolves the issue.
Still awaiting the arrival of my part (scheduled to arrive tomorrow). Of course, the old hatch lock has been working just fine lately. So frustrating.
 

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SUCCESS!!!!!
2010 Nissan Armada Titanium
Manual rear hatch
Part # needed: 90330-ZZ90A (Thanks to @stodds for supplying)

I had my local Nissan dealer order the part(90330-ZZ90A) for me yesterday and picked it up today. Just replaced it and it does fit and works perfectly now. Finally after years of dealing with this hopefully this resolves the issue forever.

NOTE: See attached pics. The one pic is of the whole assembly that comes in the package and the other is a pic comparing the end of the original(black) and the new(gray). The new gray one is slightly larger than the original so it would not seat into the door handle. I just replaced the new cable with the existing one and it still worked in the new part.

Hope this helps anyone who has not replaced theirs yet.


IMG-0076.JPG IMG-0085.JPG
 

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Any chance you took a pic of the other end?

I was mucking about in there earlier this evening, and came to the realization that I'm completely MISSING the cable that goes from the actuator to the door mechanism!! I hunted and pecked all the way through the door, but it has physically disappeared!!

So MY issue with the (power) hatch is that it does not lock. (Well, it doesn't funtion at all, but I noticed this cable missing and figure I'm going to deal with this part first.) The microswitch for the handle is definitely toast, so the hatch can't be opened unless you open the glass and reach in. The glass locks no problem, so the vehicle is secure. But I can use the manual lever inside the door whether I have locked the car or not.

I'm asking about the other end as I cannot for the life of me figure out where the cable would even hook up! I didn't pull the (big-ass) latching mechanism out, as some dark clouds were rolling in and I wanted to put it back together before the hail hit.
 
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