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Discussion Starter #41
Thanks again tchjts1! I purchased the battery at Autozone. They replaced the first one on 2017 and would not replace this one the one I received when the other one went bad after 1 year. Oops I do leave a phone charger plugged in the lighter port on the driver side. Strange thing when I got the new battery I removed it so I will not be plugging it back in until I need it. Is there anyway to tell if something is draining the charge aside from that port?

As for the clumping sound I scheduled an appointment for next week. I will provide an update once I know.
 

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Thanks again tchjts1! I purchased the battery at Autozone. They replaced the first one on 2017 and would not replace this one the one I received when the other one went bad after 1 year. Oops I do leave a phone charger plugged in the lighter port on the driver side. Strange thing when I got the new battery I removed it so I will not be plugging it back in until I need it. Is there anyway to tell if something is draining the charge aside from that port?

As for the clumping sound I scheduled an appointment for next week. I will provide an update once I know.
So then I would get my next battery at Walmart. It's a no-hassle 3 year return policy. Even if they replace one, say at the 2 year mark, then the 3 year period starts over again.

As far as the phone charger - it's OK if you just have the cord plugged in, but not the phone. It will only draw power if you have the device connected to the cord.
 

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if the phone charger has an led on it to show its plugged in, that is , albeit small, a drain on the battery so best not to have anything plugged into the port.

there is not anything that will tell you "hey, this X thing is causing your battery to drain", but there is a product you can connect to your battery to keep track of the battery state of charge.




This connects betwixt your battery posts and send graphical data to your phone via bluetooth--even up to about 30 ish feet away. you can look at the graph and see the state of charge and that can give you an idea of your battery state. there are similar products like this and they all do the same thing.
 

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there is a product you can connect to your battery to keep track of the battery state of charge.
$40 for that thing! I'd rather just spend $30 and buy a trickle charger or a jump pack :)
(I have both and carry the jump pack with me at all times. Sooo much easier than using jumper cables)

I think the best thing to do is to put a quality battery in your vehicle and maintain it. I know people like to go with the cheapest option available to them on batteries, but usually it is a case of you get what you pay for.

I had a standard lead acid Die Hard that lasted me from April 2010 - January 2013 ($149)
Then went to an AGM Optima Yellow Top in January 2013 that is still in use today ($239)

As it sits now, the Optima is about worn out and needs replaced. If I let the Armada sit longer than a week, I need to put it on the charger.

There are different specs for CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) for Armada's that have the big tow package vs non-tow. Non-tow should be at least 600 CCA. Big tow should be 700 (or more) CCA.

I'll go with 800 CCA or more for my next battery. I'll definitely go with AGM again, and not lead/acid.

Nicole, I am curious what your battery CCA rating is. If you get a chance to look at it, on the label you should see "CCA" printed with a value next to it. There is also a "CA" value, but I'm interested in the CCA rating.
 

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i have a jump pack as well. with this little guy you always know the status of your battery at any time. it also tests crank voltage and charging. small price to pay for peace of mind knowing if thee is an issue somewhere. :) there's other models of different vendors that may cost a few bucks less, but the product is worth the money.

sorry id advise AGAINST an optima. I used to swear by their batteries but they are not what they used to be since they have been bought out. I do agree a better quality starter battery os worth the extra coin. :)
 

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sorry id advise AGAINST an optima. I used to swear by their batteries but they are not what they used to be since they have been bought out. I do agree a better quality starter battery os worth the extra coin. :)
Yeah, I am not going with Optima this time. Although it was an above-average battery, I don't feel it was an outstanding battery that warranted the $250 price tag. It is sitting on the charger as I type this.

I would still like to stick with AGM though. I haven't decided what brand yet. I was at AutoZone today looking at their computer screen on what they had for the Armada... at the top of the screen was a note "This is a high electrical demand vehicle"... which we all know. Was interesting that there were no notes that if equipped with the big tow package to use a higher rated CCA.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Hey guys! Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions. I am going to reread the battery pack recommendation so that I can locate the best one.

My CCA was/is 700 for the old and new battery. It was registering 520iah when the guy showed me. Havent tested the new one. I will definitely get the next battery from Walmart thanks who knew.

As for the clumping sound the guy is saying it is the sway bar links. He showed me how one of them I believe the left one had a slight hole in it and was worn down.

What are your thoughts on this?
 

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Hey Nicole. The 700 CCA is good for your vehicle.

As for your swaybar end links (Just had mine changed out today!) I would not hesitate to tell you to go ahead and do that. They are $32 each and you would need 2 of them. (You could do one, but I would personally do both) You can get good aftermarket ones (Moog) here. These are the correct ones for your 2010 QX56:
https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k750146

The stock Nissan ones from the dealer are like $52 each and they are not greasable. The Moog's are greasable and if you do get them to be installed, tell your mechanic that he needs to grease them. They don't come fully pre-greased.

Also, I would suggest you get new front swaybar bushings. They are only $6 each. Again, you would need 2 of them. I would suggest you call the parts department of your Nissan dealer and have them order them for you, then go pick them up when they come in. In this case, I think the design of the stock Nissan bushings are better than Moog's because of the location of the slit.

Here you can see the old ones that came off of my '07Armada today. These are small. They fit in the palm of your hand. The old style had the slit on the flat bottom that goes up against the frame, which was not a great location for it. The new ones have the slit at the corner shown by the red arrow.

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As for labor on doing the job, the end links and bushings are only a total of 12 bolts and are easily accessible. Shouldn't even take an hour to do the job, provided the old end link bolts aren't a problem. They can be, sometimes.

As for the jump pack, they've come a long way in battery technology on these things. I have the older style which is basically like toting a very small vehicle battery around. They now have ones that you can carry around in your glovebox. No matter which way you go on these, remember that they don't hold their charge forever. You have to occasionally plug them in and bring them up to full power.

This is the one I currently have. Red cup for size comparison...
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And these are the newer ones that basically fits in the palm of your hand and can easily be stored almost anywhere:

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Whatever you get, make certain it is capable of starting a 5.6L engine. That particular one shown above seems to be highly rated and can start up to a 7L engine. You can find that one here on Amazon: Tacklife Jump Pack

Lastly, if you want to educate yourself on how the end links get changed out, here ya go. Quick and easy:

 

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Also, in terms of the battery pack discussion,

you can also get one of these:



this is basically a super capacitor. the advantage of this over conventional battery packs is it does not need to be charged up from time to time. when your battery is dead, say 10 volts or what have you, you connect this gadget to the battery. it takes the residual current form the battery to charge up the capacitor inside. then after a couple of minutes you can then crank the engine.

i've both a jump box with a battery inside, and this gadget, and i prefer to use this booster because of its smaller size and that i don't need to charge it/top if off monthly...

in the end both of these options work. the point is its great to have something like a jump box in the trunk for peace of mind. some of them have compressors, usb ports, etc so you can use them for other tasks around the house...
 

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It's amazing what they have in the way of technology now. I didn't know that thing existed.

That Tacklife one I showed up above says it has 1 year standby, but the type of person I am, I would charge it at least quarterly.

The one benefit of my older model jump pack (Besides having a bright LED and emergency strobe light) is that it has an integrated air compressor built into it. Where that comes in handy is if you get a flat and have to put your spare on... that you haven't checked the tire pressure in for the last 6 years and is now down to about 15 psi. Driving to a gas station on that can be a real bummer if it is a long way off.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Hello tchjts1!

Thank you very much once again for all your information. I was confused about the battery pack you mentioned earlier, but I understand now. I actually have a FATMAX that allows me to charge my battery from the inside of the car and via the jumper cables. This thing also allows me to inflate my tires also. I thought you were talking about being able to check the battery life of my battery, and this thing does not do that.

Thanks for all the information on the Sway Bar Endlinks. It is amazing that you replaced the same thing today. WOW! So these endlinks actually causes the sound I am hearing? I do not understand that at all. I will be replacing both of them for sure.
 

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Let's just say that it is possible that the noise you hear could be due to the end links and/or the bushings.You mentioned above that the mechanic told you it was an endlink, so I can only assume he knows what's up .If you are tight on cash,(and who isn't this time of year) then only replace the one he says is bad. Otherwise, it is smart to replace both endlinks.

You could easily check the bushings yourself by turning your tires all the way to one side and whichever tire is pointing outwards, look in from the front of the tire towards the center of the vehicle and you will see the bushing. The swaybar is about 1inch in diameter and goes across from wheel to wheel and has some curvature at each end. The endlinks are at each end close to the wheel... hence "end" link.

If the bushing looks like the (top left) of the below picture, it is quite possible that the bar is banging up against the frame. The split you see is an intentional design so you can put the bushing onto the bar, but this one is way worn out and it shouldn't be spread like it is. That split should come together and be flush but movement over time has deteriorated it.

Top right pic is the new bushing after install. See how it is nice and snug all around the swaybar?

Bottom left is one of the old endlinks and bottom right is a new one.

The reason I am saying to replace those as well as the endlinks is that the bushings are only $6 a piece and easy to put on. If the mechanic is doing endlinks, he is right there anyway. It is the endlinks and the bushings that control the movement of the swaybar... also known as the stabilizer bar. This is what keeps your tires in contact with the road as you go over bumps, potholes, etc.

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Discussion Starter #53
Hello Guys & Happy New Year! Here's an update on the bushing/endlinks. They replaced the bushing only. They said the end links did not need to be replaced. I opted to replace the bushing and wait on replacing the spark plugs until a few weeks. The sound is gone. Thanks for all your help, advice and explanations.
 

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I opted to replace the bushing and wait on replacing the spark plugs until a few weeks. The sound is gone.
Excellent!

If you don't know the price yet for spark plugs on these, you are going to have sticker shock. Almost $20 each (x8) if you buy from the dealer. We could probably find you a better price on Ebay or Amazon. Would need to know if your vehicle is a Flex Fuel (E85) or not. You can tell by opening the door to the gas cap. If it is flex fuel, there should be a big white label on the inside of the door that says something about E85 fuel capable.
 

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You should also consider having your PCV valves changed out. There are 2 of them. Each one simply screws into the top of the valve cover and a hose is attached to them. They cost about $10 each from Autozone and only take a few minutes to replace. They can get gunked up and grimy which affects their purpose in life. If they start sticking or completely go bad, the vehicle can run rough... or worse. Since you are above 100k miles, I would say it is totally worth doing as part of your "tune up". It may even resolve some of the rough running you were describing earlier.
 
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