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LOL, I think someone in their parts department thinks box cutters and tape is too much effort and Karate finger punches them. Pretty sure the original empty box was because the computer said there was one on the shelf but some Tech probably needed a shock and "finger punched" it, LOL. Then whoever pulled it off the shelf to ship either was in IDGAF mode or a complete idiot. Either way it was made right.
Judo Chop! Lol

The ones on there already are okay, just got these for the good price. Probably will wait till Spring (which should be next week here in the South) to do this. Not sure if I want to change out the springs for something else while I'm back there or not.
How many miles? I think mine were probably shot a while ago though the air worked fine.

Ah rust. Glad we don't see a lot of that down here.

Not sure where you live but if it's in snow country or the coast do yourself a favor and order that new hardware.


Woodworking saying: Measure twice and cut once.

Here's a paraphrase for this situation:

PB Blast six times and turn once. Impact and a breaker bar are a must. If all else fails clean off the petro-chemicals and start with the heat gun and if you must graduate to the torch.

Good luck!
Yea I'm in NY (more salt than snow). I actually got the shocks removed/installed with no issues - it was the air lines which caused issue.

What I am concerned about is the compressor bolts. I will PB blast them ahead of time but they are tiny and likely to snap.
 

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Just crossed 150k last month.
I have 145k on mine and the rear air shocks are shot. Air bladders are still fine, but the driver's side compressed with little effort and the passenger side compressed with no effort and never uncompressed so it was like having no shocks at all (which would explain my bouncy rear end).

The water in the shocks may have been a factor as well. I don't think much water could get in through the air connection nipple but rather through the compressor itself (which is why I decided to buy a new one).

Another poster (Fan4Ever?) noted that the air dryer was put between the compressor and shocks rather than before the compressor which means the compressor takes in a lot of moisture from the air (and corrodes it). He also stated he had liquid water in the dryer which likely is what happened with me and it got to the shocks.

I'll post up pics once I receive and install to help others in the future who may have questions.
 

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2012 Nissan Armada SL
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If you're not regularly testing the compressor by putting a load on it I'd recommend doing a manual check once a year. I unbolt the sensor arm and hold it up for 30 seconds to see if mine activates. I also usually take enough family trips that the crew and our equipage are enough to make it activate too.
 

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If you're not regularly testing the compressor by putting a load on it I'd recommend doing a manual check once a year. I unbolt the senor arm and hold it up for 30 seconds to see if mine activates. I also usually take enough family trips that the crew and our equipage are enough to make it activate too.
Since new, my rear suspension would sag over night when it was cold so the compressor will kick on every morning in the winter until level so I know it works.

Reading here, it seems that occurrence is not normal and the TSB was to replace the shocks and airlines (slow leaks); some have just replaced the o-rings in the shocks. Along with the new OEM shocks, and Suncore compressor and OEM air lines on the way (which could have air leaks at the air line hose connections), I'm curious how it holds up in the cold once I get everything installed.

But I wanted to point out that the air shocks have a normal shock in them and even if the air shocks work, the actual gas shock in the air shock wears like any other shock and mine are completely shot at 145k. It took quite a bit of effort to compress the new air shocks.

Curious what you find when you do yours.
 

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Cool. This seemed to be misinformation initially in the community. People would state "They are air shocks and don't need to be replaced" when in actually they are more than just air and subject to the same life of regular shocks.

I received the new air lines (OEM) and compressor from Suncore and wanted to document my experience so others undertaking the same can benefit.

OEM Compressor Removal
I had sprayed the 4 10mm bolts a few days ago with PB Blaster and luckily I didn't snap anything off! 🥳 I couldn't figure out how to take the inlet/filter out of the frame without breaking it so I just left it in place - the Suncore did not come with one anyway so just pulled off the hose and reused it.

The OEM compressor has hooks on the top to keep it in place which is a nice touch as you do not have to hold it up. Unfortunately, the Suncore did not have this feature.

Once I realized I wouldn't have to drill/tap the compressor bolt holes I left it until last and did the air lines.

Air Lines
Installing the new air lines was a real PITA. Several of the ziptie clips are located in areas you cannot reach (which caused issues with removal and install). It is a good idea to take a picture or at least pay attention to how things were routed as it has a bunch of curves in it which only make sense once installed. A flexible rubber hose would have been much better (though the plastic has some flex). Ultimately I got it done and was thankful I removed the spare tire as the extra room is really helpful. I had to remove two clips to reposition and reroute the passenger side hose (I wasn't paying enough attention during removal) and broke them so I ziptied around the frame. Not perfect but will work fine.

If I had to do it again, I would just run new rubber air lines of better quality and durability.

Air Shocks
Once the airlines were routed, I put some silicone grease on the fittings and plugged them into the new OEM air shocks I had installed last week. In an effort to avoid this problem (fusing of the air line "nipples") the next time (or for the next owner) I slathered Green Grease all over the fitting in hopes to prevent corrosion. I cannot be sure that water wasn't from the compressor though.

Suncore Compressor Install
I was pretty excited to order this as I had read good reviews here. My first disappointment was to see the "made in China" label. :confused: I somehow (incorrectly) convinced myself this was a good old american company which builds their own compressors. Instead, I think they just take other crap products and rebrand them (citing their expensive rebranded Monroe shocks) Grrr. Next was that it did not come with filter (the part that goes into the frame). Then the lack of hooks on the top to support it. And finally the air intake hose did not have a clamp like the OEM. Not a huge deal, just used another ziptie. Once I lubed the bolts with anti-seize, everything lined up and I was ready to install the airlines.

Like I did with the shocks, I put a light coating of silicone grease on the air hose fitting and pushed it in. Gave a quick tug and it popped right out! What??? Ok, will try again....same result. I figured maybe the silicone grease was preventing it from gripping? So I tried my OEM compressor and it locked right in. Crap!

Now I had to remove the Suncore compressor and put the old and rusted (but working) OEM back in. I'm VERY disappointed in the Suncore and I guess I got what I paid for ($160). I am going to call them for a refund as it is unusable. I get have zero confidence this thing will last.

Ride
Once I turned around my truck and pulled 1/2 way in the driveway the compressor kicked on (as expected) and filled up the shocks as it did before. But the true test would be the road test....

My main complaint was a bouncing/uncontrollable rear end and the new shocks COMPLETELY resolved it. The back end is now planted and does not get jarred or bounced over bumps. It really makes the truck nice to drive again!

I would not call the ride smooth (though I have my LT Goodyear Duratracs on for the winter) but I can feel the dampening and regained my loss of control.

Summary
Rear air shocks have a shock inside them which goes bad over time - they will eventually need to be changed out. If you live where it snows/salt, take great care when removing the airlines from the shocks as mine was a total nightmare and required replacement of the broken line.

I saw another YT vid where they had the same problem and his solution was to cut the plastic connector off and pull back some of the plastic sheathing on the line to give him enough to push into the shock. That could work too I suppose.

My OCD kicked in and necessitated replacing both lines and the compressor :)
 

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2010 Platinum 2wd Navy over Black leather
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I've been following about every thread on the suspension. My '10 Platinum 2wd has 137k on it & looking to replace mine with Moog/Bilstein combo. I can hear the compressor run & the level doesn't seem to change. It doesn't sag just does not seem to be doing anything.
Anyway, I have tried to discern which to use & came up with the following

Front: MOOG 81200 Bilstein 24197656 (4600)
Rear: MOOG 81091 Bilstein 24276801 (4600)
Gonna cost ~$450 thru Rockauto.com

Can someone verify if this is correct? Also I just don't have the time especially for the front & will prob have a shop do it. Is there anything else I would need to take them?
 

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The 81091 you mentioned are too soft if you're eliminating the air shocks. You'll want the stiffer springs from the non air model of Armada. Also not sure if there's any difference between 4wd and 2wd (ride height?)...see my signature line to see the parts I used on my 4wd.
 

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2010 Platinum 2wd Navy over Black leather
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The 81091 you mentioned are too soft if you're eliminating the air shocks. You'll want the stiffer springs from the non air model of Armada. Also not sure if there's any difference between 4wd and 2wd (ride height?)...see my signature line to see the parts I used on my 4wd.
Did you use the MOOG 81085 on all 4 corners? Also if I took just the Springs & Struts to a shop, can they reuse all other components?
 

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Did you use the MOOG 81085 on all 4 corners? Also if I took just the Springs & Struts to a shop, can they reuse all other components?
No, only use 81085 just on the rear. I reused original springs on front, just switched out the struts. I would think a shop would reuse original components unless they come across some that are very worn or broke. Some of the bolts and bushings do get VERY corroded and need to be cut off.
 

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2022
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Replaced my rear shocks recently with oem shocks and wanted to share tips if you end up having to cut due to corrosion. Start cutting on the side opposite the bolt head first, in this case I used a sawzaw with a 4 inch blade. You’ll only be able to cut through maybe a quarter of the bolt at a time. Then spin the head of the bolt to reposition it so you can continue cutting another quarter or so, then repeat until you cut through. Then repeat for the side closest to the bolt head. Eventually you’ll be left with the end bit of the bolt stuck inside the nut. I used vice grips to remove it. Good luck. It wasn’t bad but extra work due to rust… ugh.

Automotive tire Font Bumper Gas Automotive wheel system

Automotive tire Water Rim Automotive exterior Bicycle part

Fluid Water Auto part Gas Metal

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I finally got around to replacing my compressor yesterday (with OEM). The existing one was working but I figured since I did the shocks and air lines I might as well do the compressor as well.

As previously stated, my rear height would lower overnight when it was cold out since I got the truck new. There seems to be some debate if this is normal and a poster (apologies forgot who) stated that the compressors have an exhaust solenoid which can stick open due to corrosion.

Interestingly, over the past month the air loss seemed more significant/quicker; perhaps related to the exhaust solenoid.

Anyway, today was the first day in as long as I have had the truck where the back end did not drop overnight. Seems that the new compressor is holding air better than the original OEM. Temps were about 38 degrees so pretty cold but not terribly - will be curious next winter how it behaves.

Install wasn't bad though the new compressor did not have the hooks to hold up while bolting and it seems one of the 4 bolts started to strip (Nissan seems to use cheap hardware as they were only removed once previously) but it is secure. Hardest part was getting out the old air filter from the frame. I pretty much had to destroy it.
 

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2012 Nissan Armada SL
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Here's what an Armada looks like with new socks (EBC pads and rotors) but still waiting for me to transfer the springs to my Bilsteins.
 
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Here's what an Armada looks like with new socks (EBC pads and rotors) but still waiting for me to transfer the springs to my Bilsteins.
I thought you posted that you kept the black stickers between the windows off? It was that some else?

Good work - I wish I had a driveway or garage big enough where I could keep the Armada on jack stands without blocking other cars - I’ve got to put it all together by the end of the day.
 

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2012 Nissan Armada SL
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I thought you posted that you kept the black stickers between the windows off? It was that some else?

Good work - I wish I had a driveway or garage big enough where I could keep the Armada on jack stands without blocking other cars - I’ve got to put it all together by the end of the day.
I did, but there were scratches I couldn't buff out so I hit it with some Plasti-dip while I decide where to go with it next.

I am blocking both garage doors here, much to my wife's annoyance.



Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 

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I did, but there were scratches I couldn't buff out so I hit it with some Plasti-dip while I decide where to go with it next.

I am blocking both garage doors here, much to my wife's annoyance.



Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
Well at least you have a 2 car garage, I only have a 1 which doesn't come close to fitting the Armada :(

I ended up getting vinyl stickers from Amazon - this will be a while before I get them on. I have to take care of the other sun-damaged parts (headlights, cowl, running boards, mud flaps) first.
 
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