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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My auto lift gate stop working and my first though was the motor needed replacing. I read some were in CA a member posted that his issue was a loose screw. I could here the motor working, but not lifting the gate. So i decided to tear into the lift gate area. Sure enough the lift gate arm screw had work it self loose, below are some pictures for reference.



Remove the panel were the lift gate locking mechanism is at.


There are two hidden screws in the floor hooks.



Two more screws under the carpet.



Time to loosen the panel were the scissor jack is stored. No need to completely remove the panel, just enough to fit your hand.



This is the motor rail, the lift gate arm should be attached to this by a screw.


Here were i found the screw.



You'll need to remove the lift gate arm top screw with a T-40 socker



Screw in the bottom lift gate arm, you'll need a 5mm Allen wrench



Screw the top lift gate arm


Time to test it out before putting everything back. Put everything back in reverse order.
 

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Nissan Armada 2012

My Armada has this same issue and I followed the procedure below to disassemble. However, the bottom lift gate screw does not want to screw in. Looking at the treads on the screw it appears that a portion of it may have broken off. Do you know how long that screw should be? Do you have the part-number and price for that bottom screw? I appreciate any help you can provide me with!

Thanks in advance!
Joel..
 

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Thanks very much to VWChisme for the photos! Ive got the same issue. However, in order to remove the left side finisher, I've removed all the screws in the floor luggage area, including the two under the tie hooks and removed that cover too. Ive removed the tailgate kick plate, but I haven't removed the roof lining. Do I have to do that in order to get the left finisher off? Either way, I'm stuck as whilst Ive unscrewed the bolts on the left finisher at the floor level by the 2nd and 3rd row seats (and the clip hook by the tailgate itself), I cant seem to get the finisher off - wheres the best place to pull it to remove it? thanks!
 

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Hi, many thanks to vwchisme for posting and the excellent photos. I have the same issue. in order to remove the left side finisher, I've removed all the screws in the floor luggage area, including the two under the tie hooks and removed that cover too. Ive removed the tailgate kick plate, but I haven't removed the roof lining. Do I have to do that in order to get the left finisher off? Either way, I'm stuck as whilst Ive unscrewed the bolts on the left finisher at the floor level by the 2nd and 3rd row seats (and the clip hook by the tailgate itself), I cant seem to get the finisher off - wheres the best place to pull it to remove it? thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ive removed the tailgate kick plate, but I haven't removed the roof lining. Do I have to do that in order to get the left finisher off?
It's been a while since i did it, but you don't have to take the roof lining to get to it. I was able to get my hand in by the quarter panel that housed the jack, it was a tight fit but doable.

Either way, I'm stuck as whilst Ive unscrewed the bolts on the left finisher at the floor level by the 2nd and 3rd row seats (and the clip hook by the tailgate itself)
not sure what your talking about since i didn't need to do anything by the 2nd row seat.

I cant seem to get the finisher off - wheres the best place to pull it to remove it? thanks!
work your way from the bottom/rear.
 

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It's been a while since i did it, but you don't have to take the roof lining to get to it. I was able to get my hand in by the quarter panel that housed the jack, it was a tight fit but doable.

not sure what your talking about since i didn't need to do anything by the 2nd row seat.

work your way from the bottom/rear.
Great thanks a lot for replying! ok, so you didn't remove the bolts on the rest of the left finisher? Cool. Ive done it all back up at the moment as I got stuck

So, you basically got your hand in behind the panel where the jack is housed and pushed outward from the part of the panel that's at the rearmost edge of the car, starting from the bottom? Ill post a photo to try and explain this...
 

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Ok, so I am guessing from your description you started with Red X. can you help a real idiot like me and tell me the order you started pressing outwards? I'm thinking Red X, green X, blue X then black X then white X?
sorry that Im being really cautious, but if I screw this up its unlikely there'll be a replacement available here for at least a month and I dread to think how much it'll cost shipping over from the states!!

cheers and thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, so I am guessing from your description you started with Red X. can you help a real idiot like me and tell me the order you started pressing outwards? I'm thinking Red X, green X, blue X then black X then white X?
sorry that Im being really cautious, but if I screw this up its unlikely there'll be a replacement available here for at least a month and I dread to think how much it'll cost shipping over from the states!!

cheers and thanks
I don't remember the order but your on the money with the "X" for losings the panel. I did not remove the panel, i just loosing it enough to be able to access the area i needed.
 

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New here and came across this post trying to fix an issue I was having. Now Like someone asked before is there a part number for the lower screw that has worked its way out. Threads on mine look pretty bad and id like to replace it. And as usual the dealer has no idea what part number to order. :mad:
 

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Perfect! Thanks so much for the details and pics. What a stress reliever right before vacation. Was able to fix myself rather than take in to the dealer.
 

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I know this is an old thread but it happened to my 2012 Mada I figured I would post the part number for the lower bolt.

01131-0001U
 

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Thanks for the great article. It was right on the money. Had the same problem on my 2013 SL. From start to finish, it took me 20 minutes. That includes going back into the house a couple of times to get the correct tool. I did find about two inches of water below the jack/lift motor. The drain plug I could see from the outside was not the one that would drain the water. I ended up soaking it up with a sponge and a towel to finish drying it. Thanks for keeping me from going to the dealers.
 

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I had the same issue on my 12 this year... luckily the screw didn't fall out so it was easy to get it back together. I used some threadlocker to make sure it didn't happen again..
 

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Quick question just now experiencing this problem but did your lift gate attempt to open then immediately beeped and close? This seems to have started after a battery replacement and I'm trying to not completely disassemble the rear to find out I'm chasing the wrong problem. Mybar connecting to my armature is loose so I'm hoping that's what my problem is.
 

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Quick question just now experiencing this problem but did your lift gate attempt to open then immediately beeped and close? This seems to have started after a battery replacement and I'm trying to not completely disassemble the rear to find out I'm chasing the wrong problem. Mybar connecting to my armature is loose so I'm hoping that's what my problem is.
Before you start tearing into everything, have you verified that your hydraulic struts that hold the lift gate up are in good shape? If those are weak, the power lift gate will not work, the motor doesn't have the power to lift the gate without the assistance of the gas struts. To check this, open your lift gate manually. Does it stay up on it's own? Is it really heavy to lift? If so, your struts are bad. Easy fix, parts are available on Amazon or RockAuto, or if you want to spend more, can go with OEM from the dealer. They are also relatively easy to replace yourself, take about 10 minutes total, plus finding a 2X4 or similar (I used a broom handle) to hold the gate up while you change the struts.

Keith
 

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Before you start tearing into everything, have you verified that your hydraulic struts that hold the lift gate up are in good shape? If those are weak, the power lift gate will not work, the motor doesn't have the power to lift the gate without the assistance of the gas struts. To check this, open your lift gate manually. Does it stay up on it's own? Is it really heavy to lift? If so, your struts are bad. Easy fix, parts are available on Amazon or RockAuto, or if you want to spend more, can go with OEM from the dealer. They are also relatively easy to replace yourself, take about 10 minutes total, plus finding a 2X4 or similar (I used a broom handle) to hold the gate up while you change the struts.

Keith
The gate does stay full up when opened. I'm not to sure how heavy it is suppose to be when lifting manually. But it is manageable IMO. I think they have been changed out at one point but before we got it. I dont have a problem buying new ones just to be safe. Thanks for the advice I'll let you know if that fixed the problem.
 

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They are also relatively easy to replace yourself, take about 10 minutes total, plus finding a 2X4 or similar (I used a broom handle) to hold the gate up while you change the struts.

Keith
Ahh Keith, I wish I would have read this before I changed mine. (to be honest, knowing me that may not have helped either). I held my hatch open with my head, shortly after removing the first strut o_O haha
 
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