[UncleBuck319]

I own a 2019 Nissan Armada SV 4WD with 70k mostly highway miles on it. Maintenance done by local dealer; LOF and tire rotations every 5K, keep it clean, etc. No mods, all OEM. It's my people hauler and "drive to work" SUV. I am not mechanically inclined - better to have others maintain the vehicle. But I know how to read, and so am currently stumped and confused...

My "check engine" light came on this past week. The throttle was slow to respond. In park, it high idled. The RPM indicator "hunted". I have a FIXD device, so pulled the codes off the OBD2 connector. First code was P2101, second was P0507. Park the car overnight, and the check engine light is off the following morning for a drive. Then it turns back on. No P2101 code, but did receive a second P0507 code. I checked the engine for anything obvious - loose hoses or clamps. Nothing found. Made sure the gas cap was secure too.

Interestingly, the car runs great on the highway on cruise control. No RPM hunting or delayed speed. Around town though, there is a lag when I hit the gas and it's definitely idling high (1100-1300 rpm).

Brought it to the dealer today. (I know, probably not the best idea.) They run diagnostics. Their recommendation is that the throttle body is bad and needs replaced. ~$1350 to replace it with OEM and then "relearn". When I asked if they can do a vacuum test first, they say "no, the book recommends replacing the throttle body first. Start there. Next would be replace the PCM". When I challenge the dealer to look at other indicators, they tell me "you do have a lot of miles on a 2.5 yr old car."

I am flabbergasted. (Good excuse to use that word.) The Armada is 2.5 yrs old with 70k miles on it. This is my first Nissan. I have owned a lot of Toyota's. Never had a bad throttle body before. Are Nissans notorious for bad throttle bodies and PCMs at 70k miles? Is there anything else I should look for? This sounds nuts.

Any ideas or thoughts? Could bad gas cause this? I am having a hard time jumping right into replacing a very expensive piece of the system as a first attempt to fix it.

Thanks for any help or input!

Here's a screenshot of the FIXD OBD2 reader error codes. Turning the car off overnight and restarting it in the morning only showed the P0507 error; the P2101 was gone.

 

[OBXPatrol]

Sounds like a lazy dealer to me.
There was another post on here a few weeks ago that sounded exactly the same.
Dealer said the TB needed to be replaced before troubleshooting anything.

Can the individual sensors not be replaced? I have replaced a many TB Position Sensors and IAC Valves on numerous vehicles.
From very quick research it appears the IAC is replaceable.

Other good places to start, vacuum leak.
I've had vacuum leaks in the past on other vehicles that I've only found after using starting fluid or brake cleaner to track them down (when sprayed on connections that are leaking the RPM will fluctuate). Just looking at hoses, valves, and fittings is not good enough.

Maybe remove and clean the TB and replace the IAC valve while you're at it. If you don't want to handle that, a good shop will. I'd look for a local mechanic that specializes in Japanese or Euro cars, from experience they're always the most meticulous.

Something else to consider:

That appears to be complete with the throttle control motor.

 

[primoV8]

I wouldn’t be surprised if the dealership didn’t even bother cleaning the throttle body and plate first before suggesting a replacement throttle body. Over time, grime and carbon buildup can affect the throttle plate from opening/closing correctly. It’s easy to clean as throttle body cleaner sprays are readily available at most local auto parts stores. The best way to clean it is to remove from the intake manifold, unplug the connector and work both sides of the throttle body and plate. But in doing so, you would need a full range scan tool in order to set/calibrate the throttle body plate back to its correct, closed position or anytime the throttle body harness is disconnected.

 

[UncleBuck319]

Thanks for the suggestions. The check engine light came back with a vengeance, turning a bunch of new warning lights on when coming home from work. It also went into "limp mode"; only let me accelerate to 10 mph or so. Turning the car off and back on reset the lights except the check engine light (it stayed on) and I was able to get it home. Attached are the new lights and codes.

I think I need to find a local garage to look at it and suggest the cleaning route first...

 

[zack]

I’m having the very same issues myself. The car flashed the same warnings and went into limp mode. About 2 months ago my engine light came on. I was told that I needed new fuel injectors for the car. $1800 dollars later and now this. I have a 2017 SL with 80k miles on it.
Today, I cleaned the throttle body and at first the car was running great, really responsive but the engine light remained on. Later today after running several errands it went into limp mode again.
I’m hesitant to take it back to the dealer. I wonder if this is related to the original fuel injector replacements? My car is paid off, but it’s getting frustrating to say the least. I had a 2010 Honda Pilot that was solid as a rock. I don’t think I ever dropped $2000 in total repairs on the car. Definitely not happy with Nissan right now.

 

[primoV8]

Anytime the throttle body connector is unplugged or when the plate is manually moved which is necessary when cleaning the throttle body and plate, a series of learning procedures is necessary. First is the throttle body closed position, followed by the idle air volume learning procedure. Best to do these procedures via full range scan tool.

 

[Brendall]

I own a 2019 Nissan Armada SV 4WD with 70k mostly highway miles on it. Maintenance done by local dealer; LOF and tire rotations every 5K, keep it clean, etc. No mods, all OEM. It's my people hauler and "drive to work" SUV. I am not mechanically inclined - better to have others maintain the vehicle. But I know how to read, and so am currently stumped and confused...

My "check engine" light came on this past week. The throttle was slow to respond. In park, it high idled. The RPM indicator "hunted". I have a FIXD device, so pulled the codes off the OBD2 connector. First code was P2101, second was P0507. Park the car overnight, and the check engine light is off the following morning for a drive. Then it turns back on. No P2101 code, but did receive a second P0507 code. I checked the engine for anything obvious - loose hoses or clamps. Nothing found. Made sure the gas cap was secure too.

Interestingly, the car runs great on the highway on cruise control. No RPM hunting or delayed speed. Around town though, there is a lag when I hit the gas and it's definitely idling high (1100-1300 rpm).

Brought it to the dealer today. (I know, probably not the best idea.) They run diagnostics. Their recommendation is that the throttle body is bad and needs replaced. ~$1350 to replace it with OEM and then "relearn". When I asked if they can do a vacuum test first, they say "no, the book recommends replacing the throttle body first. Start there. Next would be replace the PCM". When I challenge the dealer to look at other indicators, they tell me "you do have a lot of miles on a 2.5 yr old car."

I am flabbergasted. (Good excuse to use that word.) The Armada is 2.5 yrs old with 70k miles on it. This is my first Nissan. I have owned a lot of Toyota's. Never had a bad throttle body before. Are Nissans notorious for bad throttle bodies and PCMs at 70k miles? Is there anything else I should look for? This sounds nuts.

Any ideas or thoughts? Could bad gas cause this? I am having a hard time jumping right into replacing a very expensive piece of the system as a first attempt to fix it.

Thanks for any help or input!

Here's a screenshot of the FIXD OBD2 reader error codes. Turning the car off overnight and restarting it in the morning only showed the P0507 error; the P2101 was gone.

View attachment 51263

I'm aware this is a few months old at this point, but I'm curious if anyone is still having this issue or have had it resolved? I have an '18 SL with 36k miles. 1st time I had check engine was about a year ago and they replaced the throttle body, then about 11 months ths later it came on again and they blamed me having the smart alternator cable unplugged, so they plugged that back in and did an engine update. 500 miles later, check engine back on and they replaced the ADAS, which is the sonar "brains". Just about 200 miles later it's back on and at the dealership. 4th time over 5 weeks, its so frustrating.