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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was in a parking lot with speed bumps and I went over them very slowly. As I did, I received this disturbing sound from the front driver suspension. It was almost a metal creaking sound made from the spring.

I have never heard suspension noises when driving on the road and have hit a pot hole or two in my time.

Is this normal spring compression or worth looking into further?

Thanks!
 

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I had the same problem at 15K miles with my Armada and the dealership loosened the bushings and lubed the stabilizer bar and reinstalled the bushings. Problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies guys.

BlakSpyda - Do you have the original thread with scr38's response? I wonder if I need to take it apart or if I can just shoot it in from the side?

reaper - I have about 14.5k on it now. I'm trying to avoid the dealer as I still have not found a good one in Long Island.
 

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Go to the do-it-yourself car wash and spray the crud out of those bushings using high pressure Rinse. You do not want to use soap because soap gets sticky when it dries. Then you can spray the Silicone or whatever into the sides of the bushings. The idea is to get it where it'll work itself in between the rubber and steel.

It's also really easy to take one those support brackets off grease it like crazy, put it back on, then do the other using some thick All-Purpose or Bearing Grease.
 

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i think its the upper control arm bushings the ones that connect at the frame correct?
It's more likely to be the anti-Sway bar support bracket bushings. Could be LCA or UCA bushings but the bar is what usually gets road grime in it.
 

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It's more likely to be the anti-Sway bar support bracket bushings. Could be LCA or UCA bushings but the bar is what usually gets road grime in it.
Hey Pops, would you mind please reposting the diagrams or pics, so we know where to lube?
 

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Look at attachment:
 

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Just did it as well. It seems to have worked. Will be getting on road in a little while - will post - (SCR - thanks for the diagram)
 

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Drove for 2 days now - Front end noise is completly gone - Any good long lasting recommended spray lube for this application? Thx again
 

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Drove for 2 days now - Front end noise is completly gone - Any good long lasting recommended spray lube for this application? Thx again
Apply grease like I posted earlier. My Durango did this same exact thing and grease worked the best. You could always just remove the stabilizer bar too, might be worth at least testing out??
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Apply grease like I posted earlier. My Durango did this same exact thing and grease worked the best. You could always just remove the stabilizer bar too, might be worth at least testing out??
What is involved in taking them off? Should the truck be on jack stands? Is there any tension?

Also, do you happen to have any torque specs for the bolts?
 

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Scr38 might have Torque Specs, I never use them, I always just feel the threads out. If you disconnect the end links first, that'll relieve any tension. I would put a jack under one of the bar ends to hold it if there is tension then carefully remove the bolt. If it feels tight, just jack that side until it feels forgiving. Once you have the end links off, then unbolt the center brackets. You might need a Breaker Bar (I picked one up for $25 and a 3-foot 3/4" steel pipe to use for a cheater bar from Home Depot) with some thread penetrating spray and you'll definitely need the Hexagon shaped socket head, not one of those multi-point POS sockets and be careful not to strip the nut.

Here's a recent discussion on it: http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-suspension/84989-sway-bar-keeps-flipping-over.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Scr38 might have Torque Specs, I never use them, I always just feel the threads out. If you disconnect the end links first, that'll relieve any tension. I would put a jack under one of the bar ends to hold it if there is tension then carefully remove the bolt. If it feels tight, just jack that side until it feels forgiving. Once you have the end links off, then unbolt the center brackets. You might need a Breaker Bar (I picked one up for $25 and a 3-foot 3/4" steel pipe to use for a cheater bar from Home Depot) with some thread penetrating spray and you'll definitely need the Hexagon shaped socket head, not one of those multi-point POS sockets and be careful not to strip the nut.

Here's a recent discussion on it: http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-suspension/84989-sway-bar-keeps-flipping-over.html
Pops - Thanks for the link. But I don't get why all the Titan guys are removing theirs? Is this an off-road thing? I remember the last sway bar I dealt with (2003 Maxima - rear anti-sway bar) it was replaced for a thicker one and the handling got much better. :confused:
 

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Pops - Thanks for the link. But I don't get why all the Titan guys are removing theirs? Is this an off-road thing? I remember the last sway bar I dealt with (2003 Maxima - rear anti-sway bar) it was replaced for a thicker one and the handling got much better. :confused:
I would not remove the stabilizer bar. Some Titan owners remove it only for off road use.
The torque spec on the bolts is 94 ft. lbs.
 

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That one was because it kept flipping over on him. The early guys removed them seeking more articulation for offroad but found it didn't make much difference. These trucks are heavy and our Anti-Sway bars are relatively thin for the size of the truck. Eventually, these bushings can get hard and they are also a collection spot for road salt, grime, debris and so forth. So, there have been a few more here and there taking them off just because they don't want to hassle with it when there's really not much difference with it removed, but that is on a Titan.

Personally, I'd suggest you concentrate a high pressure car wash sprayer on it to clean it out really good first then try some Silicone spray. Mine squeaks once in awhile and a Car Wash usually clears it up for awhile and I don't have near the road salt and grime that you do. If that's insufficient then it's up to you whether you want to remove the brackets to grease the bushings, replace the bushings (they're cheap), or just remove the whole bar. I haven't really messed with mine yet but will be installing a ProComp Lift before long and I'll likely put it back on unless I have problems with it between now and then. I'm only thinking of removing it as a last resort and keep it in condition to put back on in case it does happen to make a noticeable difference.
 
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