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Here’s a new question. Years ago I had a forum member do the 2 degree timing advance.

Not sure if it was eventually wiped out but will the uprev tune have any issues if it’s atill there? If so will it wipe it? Will I notice?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
No, you don't drive to an UpRev dealer.

You download the UpRev software onto your laptop.
UpRev consists of an interface cable (supplied by UpRev) that you plug into your OBDII port under your dash and then into your laptop.
Then you will work with Joe from UpRev via Email to first get a base tune into your ECU (Aramada's brain) and then you will do some specific driving parameters that will be saved to your laptop as logs. You then send these logs back to Joe and he will analyze them and make the customized adjustments and send you that tune to go back onto your ECU, overwriting the base tune.
 
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Discussion Starter #24
Here’s a new question. Years ago I had a forum member do the 2 degree timing advance.

Not sure if it was eventually wiped out but will the uprev tune have any issues if it’s atill there? If so will it wipe it? Will I notice?
I asked Joe sort of the same question as I already had the timing advance on from my previous tuner.
He just stated to fully remove the tune and that the UpRev tune will address timing.
I didn't ask him about what happens if the 2 degree advance is in place and you don't have the old tuner to remove it.

Send him an e-mail and ask and let us know the answer here. I don't recall if I put my advance on with my old Bully Dog tuner or my current SuperChips tuner.
At any rate, I am removing my SuperChips tune tomorrow.
 

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Not better fuel economy for me - probably due to the increased use of the gas pedal.
Still have front and rear factory spec O2 sensors - one in the JBA header and one on the catted B pipe. Uprev tunes the engine - so no fooling of the O2 that I know of.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
In preparation to install the UpRev tune, I removed my SuperChips tune and put it back to "stock" last night. Although at some point I had advanced the timing 2 degrees, I saw that it was back to 0 before I removed the tune. I think I must have put the 2 degree advance on with my first tuner (BullyDog), and maybe SuperChips put it back to 0 when I put that tune on later down the road.

Something else I noticed, and a total bonehead move on my part, is that when gas was relatively cheap 5 or 6 years ago, I was running 91 octane and had the 91 tune on. I haven't run 91 octane in probably 5 years, but totally forgot to put the 87 tune back on. So, tuned for 91 octane and running 87 with 0 degree timing advance. :(
the engine was still quite zippy, but now looking forward to any performance gains I will get with it being properly tuned.

That is the other major difference between SuperChips and the UpRev tunes. If I wanted to change tunes with SuperChips, I had to hook up to the OBD!! port every time and go through the full process of changing maps. With UpRev, you can change tunes simply by using specific keypresses using your cruise control buttons to change them on the fly.

The maps that come with the base tune are 87 octane, valet mode (Vehicle won't exceed 45mph), and security mode (vehicle won't start).
I will probably ask Joe to remove valet mode and to add in a 91 octane map as well as a tow mode map. If your vehicle is 2005 or newer, UpRev can install up to 5 maps.
 

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Not better fuel economy for me - probably due to the increased use of the gas pedal.
Still have front and rear factory spec O2 sensors - one in the JBA header and one on the catted B pipe. Uprev tunes the engine - so no fooling of the O2 that I know of.
I’ve read the O2 sensor won’t reach on one of the pipes and some people extend the wires.

Can you advise on what is required to maintain the O2 sensors? Also, can the existing ones be reused or do they need to be replaced?
 

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I’ve read the O2 sensor won’t reach on one of the pipes and some people extend the wires.

Can you advise on what is required to maintain the O2 sensors? Also, can the existing ones be reused or do they need to be replaced?
No mods to the O2 cable, they all reach. Same stock sensors. Can use what you have.
 

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No mods to the O2 cable, they all reach. Same stock sensors. Can use what you have.
Great! Jeff also responded with the same if I use the Heavy Metal Cats.

I reached out to the Craigslist guy that tchjts1 found and spoke to him last night. He works at a Nissan dealer around me and does side jobs in the shop after hours so I am going to go with him. Seems like a nice guy over the phone.

I've been communicating with Jeff and Joe from Cajun and I can only wish every company was as responsive as they have been.

I'm really excited now to get this done now that I have a guy who will do it!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Great! Jeff also responded with the same if I use the Heavy Metal Cats.

I reached out to the Craigslist guy that tchjts1 found and spoke to him last night. He works at a Nissan dealer around me and does side jobs in the shop after hours so I am going to go with him. Seems like a nice guy over the phone.
Glad I was able to find someone for you. If it comes out smelling roses, then it is all due to me. If something goes wrong, then talking to him was only a suggestion. :)
 
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Hey guys, I had some conversations with Joe, Jeff, and tchjts1 today and figured I would share the info I received.

Please note that I have yet to even receive the headers so please advise of any errors

Cajun Stage 1 Info (with Heavy Metal Cats option – these should be used for emission check states)
  1. Long tube headers will delete the OEM pre-cats (going from 4 cats to 2 cats before/after install)
  2. Primary cats moved down to the B-pipes, OEM cats will be discarded.
  3. Sensor bungs located behind the cats.
Nissan Parts Required for Install:
  1. QTY: 4 - B-pipe gaskets: 20692-65J00
  2. QTY: 2 - Manifold gaskets: 14036-7S001
Optional Nissan Parts for Install (in case something breaks on the header to engine connection which hopefully it will not otherwise a real PITA):
  1. Exhaust manifold stud: 14064-JG30A
    1. 16 total – I got 4 just in case
  2. Exhaust manifold nut: 14094-9BA0A
    1. 16 total – I got 8 just in case
  3. Note – I got all the parts from Courtesy Nissan online for about $100 shipped
  4. Google for coupon codes (I got 5% off).
Prepping for Install:
  1. Jack up front end.
  2. Remove front tires.
  3. Remove plastic fender liners (driver/passenger) to expose headers.
  4. Take off 6 mm bolts from heat shields with a socket (the heads will snap off).
  5. Cut the heat shield away with tin snips (CAUTION – SHARP!).
    1. Heat shields will be discarded.
    2. You will have to cut around the wire bundles of the O2 sensor(s).
  6. Spray both sides (driver/passenger) of the engine manifold bolts with PB Blaster/penetrating lubricant.
    1. Repeat daily for 5 days before install which will allow engine to go thorough heating/cooling cycles and the penetrating oil to work its way in.
    2. I assume spraying the O2 sensors/B-pipe bolts is good practice too.
    3. Don’t park in your driveway when doing this as it will drip or put down some cardboard.
    4. Mechanic will thank you ?.
JBA Header Install Tips (lots of good info via how tos, these are just some extra tips):
  1. The B-Pipes come with upper and lower bung holes for the O2 sensor.
    1. ONLY USE THE UPPER BUNG HOLES, lower holes = no gain/problems/lengthening wires.
    2. Put anti-seize lube on both the O2 sensors and bung plugs.
      1. As soon as you heat stainless steel it will fuse the threads.
  2. Loosen but don’t remove motor mounts.
    1. This has to be done to make enough room to slide manifolds off and slide headers in.
    2. Engine has to be temporarily raised about 1” to fit/remove parts.
      1. In videos I’ve seen they put a large block of wood under the oil pain. Wondering if there is a safer way?
  3. Use a tiedown strap to temporarily pull the cat back part of the exhaust a few inches to make room to remove hardware and mate up pipes.
  4. Retorque header bolts after a week of driving.
    1. 25ft/lbs is the recommended, but you will not get a torque wrench in there.
    2. A 14mm gear wrench works well for this.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
I understand where you're coming from as I had many of those similar thoughts, but I would basically say that all you need to worry about is getting the correct gaskets. Otherwise, you have a Nissan certified Master mechanic doing the repairs and with all of the Titans and Armadas that have this issue, I am sure he's done them before.

The mechanic who just did mine has never done a Nissan before. I sent him a link to the video on the guy doing one. Did he watch it? Nope. I gave him the printed instructions from Cajun as well as some from my repair manual. Did he look at them? I don't think so. I told him he should spray the bolts with a penetrating oil ahead of the removal. Did he do that? Nope.

He didn't remove or even loosen the motor mounts. Didn't have to jack up the engine. He said he had just enough room to get in there and do it without lifting it. I don't even know if he removed the tires. Your mechanic will know what he has to do, or not do, as he goes along. Though he may appreciate you spraying penetrating oil on the manifold nuts since your truck has been living in salty conditions its whole life.

Regarding the O2 sensors, I had questions about them as well and asked Joe about it, this was his response:
(Now this information you may want to pass on to your mechanic)

Jeff's catted B pipes relocate the secondary O2 sensor to AFTER (downstream) of the cat which keeps the CEL off. On the factory setup they are in front of the cats; essentially the ECU doesn't even know they are there.
Also there are 2 bungs on the headers for the primary O2 sensors, make sure he installs the primary O2 sensors in the upper one. If you try extending the wires it will cause all sorts of other problems.
 

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Good points. I mostly wanted to get the info in one place for knowledge, especially for those doing it on their own.

The guy I am using had said he’s done manifold replacements, but I’m taking him at his word and have no proof. He did have questions about relocating the O2 sensor (which I thought had to be done along with the wire harness extension).

I’m type A so I like to provide the info I can. Will he look at it? Maybe, maybe not. But I’ll feel better doing what I can to avoid issues :)
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Type A... I get it. Me too. That's why I gave my mechanic all the info that I did.
In fact I asked him twice if he watched the video. He said no. I started to get attitude because he wouldn't watch it. LOL.
I figured if something went wrong, I would then be throwing it at him... If you would have just watched the @%$$#@ video like I asked you to!!!

But, all is good. The install went smoothly and I put the base UpRev tune on this morning. Got the data logging done and the logs sent back to Joe, who in turn then sent me the updated tune to re-flash the ECU with. Will do another run tomorrow and see if any further adjustments need to be done.

In the meantime, if Joe has sent you the directions on getting the UpRev software onto your laptop, go ahead and get that done. Be sure to disable your laptop's anti-virus software when you are installing UpRev's software to your laptop or using it to flash the ECU / doing datalogging. My AntiVirus (AVG) doesn't like their software and quarantined it, it sent a copy to AVG for analysis and wouldn't let their update program run. PITA.
 

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I agree that if you have a Nissan mechanic doing it (and are paying him a fair amount) then let him worry about the details.

Regarding your list for posterity sake- the only things I would change are -

Get all new manifold/header nuts - they are cheap.
Do not jack on the oil pan. I notched a ~1ft 4x4 piece of wood to 2x4 on one end and that let it slip up somewhere on the frame while having a solid 4x4 base on the floor jack. You have to get under there to find a spot.

And that list is good for a guy doing it at home on the ground. A mechanic in a garage with a lift is a different operation.
 

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I replaced my own cats/exhaust manifolds on my previous ‘06 2wd armada. I can’t comment on 4wd component obstruction.

On the 2wd front you don’t have to remove the motor mounts if you don’t want to. I replaced one side without a mount removal and the right side with a mount removal just to make it easier and quicker.

it is definitely easier to get the manifolds out with the mount out of the way, but if you decide to keep them in you will just have to be patient and work that manifold up and around the mount.

I posted my instructions on here somewhere in the past. I can look for them and get a link later if I get around to it.

good luck. It is a long job, but for the savings compared to dealership cost I found it totally worth it.
 

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Jeff's catted B pipes relocate the secondary O2 sensor to AFTER (downstream) of the cat which keeps the CEL off. On the factory setup they are in front of the cats; essentially the ECU doesn't even know they are there.
Also there are 2 bungs on the headers for the primary O2 sensors, make sure he installs the primary O2 sensors in the upper one. If you try extending the wires it will cause all sorts of other problems.
First ,i am very new to the armada . I have never driven one and have had one sitting on the lawn for a month or two.

But i thought these things came from Cajun Stage 1 Info (with Heavy Metal Cats option – these should be used for emission check states) . What is Jeff's catted B pipes ? Thought they came with the headers.

Also are the Heavy metal cats needed? I thought both options kept off the CEL.

And confused about the O2's So your saying no extension needed and Put the uppers in the same spot and the lowers have two options,in the B-pipe ? And they should go the farthest down?
 
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