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This is why you want to get away from plastic. This ain't no Mada but the point should be easily seen. I witnessed this happen, I was standing right next to it when it happened. Hood was closed of course when it occurred.

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Wonder if Armada drivers could prevent radiator issues by replacing the radiator cap and thermostat more often? If those are operating properly, then less issues are likely.

Regards,
Lotastyle
 

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Replaced my 2006 Armada Radiator - This post helped

Guys, this thread was very helpful and I was able to replace my radiator within a few hours using only the instructions you all left here. If I had to do it all over again, it would be much quicker.

The local dealer wanted an arm and a leg to replace the radiator and the local car repair was just under $800.00. I just could not justify paying that kind of money to someone else when it looked reasonably simple to do it myself.

My cost was a $215 replacement, 50/50 jugs of fluid and elbow grease.

So far everything is running well. I will note that my old radiator did have the same crack as everyone else mentioned in the lower right passenger side. If I had to rate the difficulty in this project i would give it a 4 only because of the fan assembly being in the way.
 

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Had to re-do the damn radiator again!!!:censor::censor::censor::censor::censor:... stupid plastic tanks cracked again, so.... I called Stillen, $385 later (free shipping)... I had a Big chunk of Aluminum sitting at home.

Well, after a good 3 hour fight, out with the old radiator (actually 7 months old), in with the new, added about half a gallon more coolant since this one is 3 rows instead of 2. Had to move my intake inward a bit, might have to cut some of the fan shroud to compensate for this. The stillen radiator is thicker than the stock one.

Good news is that with the new model radiator lines up with all the peripherals (AC condenser, and external transmission cooler), it takes some massaging, but, it fits.
My hoses were good, but its suggested you swap them out (minimize the headaches later).
Now, I'm going to test this, and hopefully not get any leaks for a looooooooong time.
Had to notch the fan shroud to fit my S&B intake, so far so good.... took the Beast out to California last week, 580 miles... no sweat.
 

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Had to notch the fan shroud to fit my S&B intake, so far so good.... took the Beast out to California last week, 580 miles... no sweat.
I am going to be putting in the same radiator in the next day or two. This info will be very nice to have as I have the same 3 row radiator and will most likely need to knotch it out a bit as well. Good news is the fan nuts came off very easy this evening. So tomorrow is the big start of the project!
 

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I installed the CSF 3328 this past weekend. Install went very smooth. I changed all radiator and reservoir hoses as well as the water pump hose. I also changed out all the clamps. I was going to run worm style on all radiator hoses but used all new OEM clamps. The originals have been on for 100k and none leaked. They are so easy to use as well, just line them up and pull the tab and bingo. I changed out all cooler line with Gates TOC line I picked up from NAPA and used worm style clamps on all transmission cooler line fittings and doubled them all up. I also changed out the t-stat with a factory unit. I had to trim the shroud to fit my intake and trimmed all the tabs off on the sides and a little in each top corner. I used short pieces of cooler line in the bottom where the shroud fits into the aluminum slots on the radiator. The short section of hose fit very tight and keep the shroud pressed against the lower tank securely. There seems to be plenty of fan clearance and all is good so far. The hardest part of this job was reinstalling the fan bolts with minimal clearance. I got two from the top and two from under the truck and used a 10mm 12 point ratcheting open-end. I did not wait for mine to crack and did this entirely as a preventative measure.



http://s826.photobucket.com/user/Ratherbecampin1/slideshow/Armada%20Radiator
 

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Gonna wake this thread up , this'll be my next fix. I had the intake "air tube" off and found this leak. This it's the second time this has had to be replaced, first was under warranty about two years ago I 1406510287584.jpg guess. Wonder if it was aluminum would this occur? It's at what appears to be the thermostat. Things that make you go "hum."

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EJ. Yes that is the T-Stat. When you replace make sure you use an OEM that will come with the rubber gasket. Also make sure it is torqued to spec. If you need the torque spec let me know I will look it up in my service manual. I would also change out the pressure cap in the plastic reservoir to ensure you are not over pressurizing the system.
 

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Stupid Fan nuts

Let me preface by saying this instructional was fantastic. That being said; eff those effing fan nuts! Project was going along nicely then completely derailed when it came time to remove those stupid things. The only tool that can possibly remove them is a 10mm box end wrench with the closed end AND you'll need a pair of channel locks to hold one of the other nuts so the whole project doesn't just rotate while you try to loosen them. So, I'm not sure what the factory torque spec is on those nuts but son-of-a-gun if they don't just try to round out even with a box end wrench (which should never happen). I got 3 of 4 loose but number 4 was not coming loose for anything. I tried everything I could but the corners rounded out and I was now dead in the water. I was not going to get that fan off. So, after my string of Yosemite Sam expletives including taking a bite out of my hat, I said eff it! I'll just have to try and get the dang thing out with the fan still on and hope I don't break something. Now, I'm here to tell you it was no picnic but with my wife standing on the bumper and in the engine compartment wiggling the radiator and me underneath bench pressing it while moving the fan back and forth to get just enough clearance we brute forced it out of there! Nothing else broke thank goodness. Once it was out I invented the new Olympic sport of "Radiator Toss", look for it as an exhibition event in the next summer games. Getting the new one back in wasn't too bad, again with my wife above and me below (heh) wiggling the fan to get a sweet spot, we got it in with little smushing of the fins. So she's all back together and seems to be working fine. I just wanted everyone to know that, while I don't recommend it, the job can be done without removing the fan if you round out a nut and have no way of getting it off.
Cheers!
 

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Sorry to hear you had trouble with the fan bolts. In my description I noticed I said 6 point. I used a 10mm 12 point and had no issues. A quick and swift strong force on the wrench broke them all free pretty easily. I removed two from the top and two from under the truck. Having 12 points makes solid contact and will not allow rounding. I will update my post for others. Glad to hear you got it in.
 

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SE, I think you meant to say 6 pt. 6 pt sockets and wrenches are ALWAYS better when turning nuts and bolts. A 12 pt does in fact give you the possibility of rounding the corners because that is all that is "gripped." A 6 pt makes full contact with each side of the nut or bolt. Hence an impact socket will NEVER be a 12 pt but rather 6 pt.

There are 6 pt wrenches that will do a job like this better when the corners of the nut have been rounded.
 

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I actually used a ratcheting 12 pt. open-end on this application since it seemed to grip the nut better than my 6 pt. The fan bolts are very soft metal and with the 12 pt. there is more points of contact on the fastener. I do agree through a 6 pt. is normally less likely to round off a fastener.


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Got home last night to coolant on the floor and a cracked radiator. I started the removal process last night and got to removing the fan and the first bolt sheared. I stopped at that point and put everything back together thinking it will have to go to a shop. This morning I am wondering if that pulley the fan attaches to is easily removed? If any more of the bolts snap I could drill them out after removing the pulley. Can anyone help?
 

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Got home last night to coolant on the floor and a cracked radiator. I started the removal process last night and got to removing the fan and the first bolt sheared. I stopped at that point and put everything back together thinking it will have to go to a shop. This morning I am wondering if that pulley the fan attaches to is easily removed? If any more of the bolts snap I could drill them out after removing the pulley. Can anyone help?
The bolts need to be removed before you can remove the pulley. What type of wrench were you using to remove the bolts? You need a tight fitting open-end with No Play. A swift tug will break them free pretty easily. If there is any play between the wrench and fastener rounding will occur as you discovered. Can you get a small vice grip on the bolt?
What year is your truck? How many miles?
 

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The bolts need to be removed before you can remove the pulley. What type of wrench were you using to remove the bolts? You need a tight fitting open-end with No Play. A swift tug will break them free pretty easily. If there is any play between the wrench and fastener rounding will occur as you discovered. Can you get a small vice grip on the bolt?
What year is your truck? How many miles?
Okay, so if I take out the rest of the bolts, even if they snap I can remove the pulley and drill the bolts out? Using a 10mm open-ended wrench and it broke free, but sheared off - not rounded at all. It's a 2008 with 152k.
 

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Yes, once all the nuts are removed the pulley can be removed very easily. You can then replace the pulley and studs. Sorry, I misunderstood I thought you rounded the fastener. Once you get the fan out of the way the rest of the job is very straight forward.
 

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Yes, once all the nuts are removed the pulley can be removed very easily. You can then replace the pulley and studs. Sorry, I misunderstood I thought you rounded the fastener. Once you get the fan out of the way the rest of the job is very straight forward.
Thanks for your advice!
 

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I just completed this project on my '07 Qx56. Same large crack in the plastic on the passenger side. A HUGE THANK YOU to "Fix It Angel" on YouTube for posting a step by step video of his repair! Here's the link: https://youtu.be/81GzolKQ0Yw I used his video and this thread on ClubArmada to replace my radiator. I ordered the Spectra Premium CU2691 Radiator from Amazon for $143. It's the same as Autozone carries but I saved $90 by ordering online. Perfect fit. I would have loved to go with Stillen all aluminum, but I bought a few tools with the money saved instead. In the video, he used a prybar to wedge the fan while he loosened the nuts. Worked for me, too. Thank you to all who take the time to share their knowledge and experience. I saved a ton of money by doing this project myself!
 

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man, looks like the radiators on our madas goes bad alot. My 08 when i only had about 30k or so on her my radiator was leaking too. luckily i was still under warranty so they just replaced it w a brand new one. I did not pay a dime and i saw the bill, WOW! almost 2 thousand dollars and some change... I was really lucky i still had the warranty. Now, no more leaks...

Believe
 

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You definitely want to get away from plastic. I installed all aluminum beauty of a radiator in my 06 Friday. I just feel compelled to share this info. I bought it from Champion Cooling and it has the trans cooler built in. Top and bottom polished looking as sweet as it performs. I waited way too long to do this and had been packing 4 gal of water to go to work and back home in case of loss of fluid. Well this radiator was only $209 plus about $30 shipping. Took a week to get here in Ohio from California but I am satisfied to date. Took longer than advertised to remove original but the new install was about 35 minutes and weighed a fraction of the original even when drained. I hope this helps others looking to go all metal.
 
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