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Hi,
We have a 2015 QX80 and started getting the BCI malfunction warning a few months ago (June of 2022). After some google searching, I came across this thread. So, I thought I would try replacing the brake switch. I ordered a Beck/Arnley aftermarket switch from Rock Auto and installed it. It didn't make any difference with the BCI Malfunction. We had no other problems, so I just turned BCI off in settings. We had no issues until a couple of weeks ago. The car starting getting lots if different lights, like ABS, etc, even with BCI turned off. It never got to the point where it wouldn't start. After reading through the thread again, I decided to replace the cruise control switch that is next to the brake switch. I ordered a cruise control switch and another brake switch from Rock Auto (Standard Motor Products brand this time). I replaced both the brake switch and cruise switch and it made no difference. I was about ready to give up and take the car to the dealer, but I had some time off from work and starting looking at it again.

I got all 3 brake switches that I had, including removing the one I had just installed, and started testing them with a multimeter. The one on the left is the original switch that came in the car.

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By testing all 3, I was able to figure out how the switches are supposed to work. When the push button is not pressed (as when the brake pedal is pressed), the top left and top right prongs (as seen in the picture above) should have continuity to one another and the bottom left and bottom right prongs should also have continuity to one another. They should all read open when the button on the switch is pressed.

This is what I found:
The original Niles switch worked exactly like it was supposed to. The top left and top right prongs read 0 Ohms and the bottom left and bottom right prongs also read 0 Ohms with the button not pressed. They all read Open when the button was pressed.

The Beck/Arnley switch that had been installed for about 5 months read 0 Ohms on the top prongs and about 3 Ohms (bad) on the bottom with the button not pressed. They all read open with the button pressed.

The Standard Motor Products switch that I just bought read open (bad) on the
top prongs and 0 Ohms on the bottom with the button not pressed. They all read open with button pressed.

I reinstalled the original Niles switch, turned off BCI in settings, and haven't had any more problems.

So, what I think happened, is that we have some problem with the BCI system that was never related to the brake switch. I think that many of the switches (other than Niles), including after markets, have problems. The original Niles switch had been installed for about 7 years and still works like it should. One replacement lasted 5 months, and the other replacement was bad out of the box.

This is a long post, but I wanted to add what I have found to this discussion. I wouldn't bother installing a new switch without testing it first. And, if you think you may have a problem with the brake switch, you can easily confirm it with a multimeter by checking resistance from prong to prong while pressing and releasing the push button.

Now, I just have to figure out the original cause of the BCI malfunction.
 
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