Wierd... I always have 0 dust.... I haven't washed the car for about 2 months now and don't have a single spot of brake dust anywhere....

 

No dust here either.

I agree with the others... I have the posi-quiet ceramic pads and not a speck of brake dust to be found.

Did any of you do the bed-in process? I wonder if that is the cause of the brake dust (even though it is meant in part to reduce dust)? When I did it the wheels where coated but I have since washed it and even after a 10 mile trip I am starting to notice them dusting again.

Do you all have the slotted / drilled?

 

No dust here either.

 

I agree with the others... I have the posi-quiet ceramic pads and not a speck of brake dust to be found.

 

So how much you guys spend on the entire brake mod since that is my next upgrade???

 

$520 shipped after the discount. Fluid is only a few bucks a quart if you are due for a bleeding. This price is WAY more reasonable than comparable rotors and pads.

 

I have slotted/drilled... The bed-in process around here would've either caused an accident or gotten me a ticket so I let the Texas Meet and Yellowstone trips take care of it for me...

 

spta97- you did the right thing via the bed-in process. Brake pads will always emit dust, just some more than others.
There is no such thing as "no brake dust" because brake pads themselves are specifically designed to wear or else there would be metal to metal contact instantly resulting in chewed up rotors.

Cermaic brake pads in general are known to have the best characteristics to achieve "low dusting" qualities. Because of the pads chemistry, the majority of brake dust that is produced by ceramic pads don't adhere or etch onto wheels creating that "no dust" look.

We obviously have our choice of dedicated brands, but to say "no brake dust" has become an overstatement by so many.

 

Agreed. The Axxis Deluxe pads I run on my M3 are very low dust but there is some. The dust is larger it seems than normal so it doesn't stick as much but I do get these black dots after a while.

I was hoping for something similar with the Centric pads but they seem to dust on par with stock. I will snap a pic to demonstrait what I mean.

 

One advantage I forgot to mention was the noise. The rotor / pad combination is inaudible. I was surprised by that because my M3 with the factory drilled / slotted rotors are always clicking and clacking.

Also, the "warm up" does not seem to be an issue anymore. I wonder if now that the pads are wearing in that has stopped but I no longer notice extra effort at low speeds.

Very happy with this purchase!

I will post pics of the dust in a few days. I did a 300 mile highway trip this weekend and the wheels are starting to get a dust coating but I want to allow them some stop and go traffic before I snap a pic.

 

My pads from R1 definitely squeak. Dont know why, but almost every stop I have noise. I have the posi's also... As far as R1 I must say their customer service is second to none. First the rotors were so heave they bent all of the wear sensors on the pads and chipped the pads. They sent me out new pads right away. They I went to put the rotors on and they did not fit the hub... Apparently 08's had used some 09 hubs so they are different. Sent them out right away with a return box.

I haven't notified them about the squeaking. They stop very good and no more dam warpage. During hard stops you can almost feel the cross drilled and slotted rotors,

 

Were the pads and sliders lubricated with high-temp grease during the install? Did you bed them?

 

Hello everyone, i have a 2004 armada and im interested in the posi quiet ceramic pads, are they made for this model, i hear nothing but good reviews and i want them. Thanks

 

Yes, they are available HERE

It looks like they also have the Axxis pads so I would call or email them to see which is best. I run the Axxis deluxe pads on my M3 and love how little they dust. The Centric pads are excellent but I have found that they dust more than the stock pads so if the Axxis pads were made for my 2007 I would have gone that route.

In order to get the best performance you should change your rotors as well. The Nissan rotors suck.

 

When i install mine i drove for 1 mile with the brake pedal on just a little bit so the brake pads get in the grove. And i never had a problem

 

That is a very bad idea. The heat would build exponentially with this method. The correct bedding proceedure allows for cooling of the brakes.

 

I've had the brakes on for about 1500 miles and they seem to have gotten better. There are no issues when stopping cold at low speeds now. With the dust I seem to notice it more when I use tire dressing - are you guys with no dust not using a dressing on your tires?

 

Tire Dressing is just foo foo pretty stuff. -lol... No dust here.

 

Oh I love me some foo foo. That is until I sling it all over the truck at 90 mph.

 

lol @ foo foo! i dont use syrup for the tires.. i prefer the matte finish.

 

Hey guys, Need some help from experienced brake users. After Pops gave us the R1 discount code, I started doing more in depth homework for my brakes. I called R1 & asked tons of questions, basically I was told that I needed the date code from my vehicle to make sure I got the right setup since there were several mid year changes along the way.
I found that mine was a 5/5 & called back. I already knew I wanted the R1 Premium Cross-drilled & Slotted rotors, just needed the right size (mine are the smaller 320mm or about 12.5" unfortunately...I was hoping for the larger ones). My question really started with which pads to get. I know most of the guys have purchased the Posi Quiets, & seem to really like them. I asked both James & Melvin with R1 which I should go with, Posi or Fleet, they told asked several questions to find out my needs & desires in driving. I told them that Im not racing it, but as heavy as we are, all the extra stopping power helps. They cautioned me about the break dust of the Fleets, but told me there was a noticeable difference in breaking. I see no break dust now, & I have blacked out OEM rims, so I dont think this will be an issue, as the rims will probably hide the majority of the dust, & I would like the extra stopping power.
Anyone tried both the Fleet & Posi & can give input on both? Id really like to get these things in the mail by the end of next week.
Oh, PS... Melvin quoted me $470 with the Fleets & Premium xdrilled & slotted rotors for the entire set, then when I mentioned the 10% Pops gave us he said, give me a min to grab a calculator...ok, I can do a little better, $450 for the set. I asked him if I could call back to order at that price after I checked online with you guys, he said sure & gave me a quote number. These guys are GREAT! Every bit as good as Club Armada says they are. Im excited & cant wait to get them, so please help me decide which ones to go with. Fleet or Posi?

 

I honestly don't know the difference but I'd ask to get them for $425 Shipped... If not, then ask to speak with Cynthia Trinh since she sent the Discount Code to me in the first place.

 

I had asked about the fleet pads but once I was told that they dust more I opted out. When properly bedded and broken in the regular centrics do a great job of stopping the truck. I would have to put myself in the very aggressive driving category and they work fine for me. The only issue I have is the dust but others think that is because of my tire dressing. If I had a set that dusted more I would return them.

I vote for the regular pads.

 

Spta, How long did you wait before you did the bedding? Im hoping to install my Xdrilled & slotted Rotors on all 4 corners tomorrow with my new Posi Quiet Ceramic pads. I was going to wash them tonight to prepare, as you suggested doing before the install. I thought I remembered that you should put a few miles on the new pads & rotors before bedding, but I dont see anything now. I have never done a bed in process, so I want to make sure I get it all right.
Thanks

 

Hey Taze. You have to wait until all the zinc coating is off the face before you do the bedding (assuming you got the premium rotors - if not you can do it right away). I initially did it after 150 miles but they didn't grab the way I wanted. I then waited another 200 hundred miles and then did it again. Both times I did the bedding procedure twice as per the instructions. After the second time they grabbed MUCH better. However I noticed that they grabbed softly when cold still but that went away after another 300 miles or so.

Bottom line is it depends how you drive but if I were to do it again I would wait about 400 - 500 miles. Again, that is only if you have the zinc coated rotors.

 

Thanks Spta, I do have the Premium rotors..same as your OP picture. I washed all the shipping oil off a little while ago. So, you are saying drive normally for a tank or two of gas & then do the bedding? I dont drive my truck often since I drive a service vehicle through out the week, so this is mostly just a weekend driver & going out for food during the week. it will likely take me 3 weeks to get 400mi. If this is the case I will install them tomorrow & then wait a tank or two & do the bedding. Please confirm that I understand this correctly, the driving normally until the zinc is worn off (around 400-500mi) & then do the bedding (should be able to see the blue tint & feel a noticeable difference in the braking when the bedding takes).
Thanks

 

Correct. Take it easy until you do the bedding though - try not to do any emergency stops.

 

ok i installed brand new oem rotors with the posi quiet ceramic pads on my benz and it squeels like a pig all the time. its been about 1000 km and it still does it. what should i do to stop the squeeling? how do i bed it? i was hoping the posi quiet would be quiet on the benz, and then i had hoped to put the posi quiet on the qxer but now, i am having second thoughts...

 

Oem rotors are known to have issues with aftermarket pads. I would not let this be an indication of how they will perform on the qx with r1 rotors. Mine are completely silent. For the Benz I would try to bed them but make sure you have lubes up the pads and put any includes shims on them. It is also important to lube the caliper slider pins.

I think I posted a link at the beginning of the thread but if nit just do a google search and select the proceedure from zekenhousen (or something similar to that).

 

Put some anti-squeal on the back side of the pads that come in contact with the caliper pistons.

 

ok thanks guys

 

I am sorry but slotted/drilled rotors are not an upgrade other than being a visual upgrade. You are reducing the stopping surface by adding slots and holes to a rotor, therefore less stopping power!!! It did serve a purpose many years ago when different materials were used for pads. They would build up gas causing the pads to float on the rotor reducing the stopping power. Current pads do not produce gas like the old ones. If you want the best stopping power, get you some quality blanks with quality pads and you will have the best stopping power you can get.

 

Interesting. My M3 came with drilled rotors stock and I have seen many MBs with them as well. Not saying that you are wrong but if it is just for looks than a lot of manufacturers have bought into it. I would like to see some evidence.

That said, they stop WAY better than the OEMs ever did and they look way cool

BTW, I recall you were having issues with your brakes - did you ever resolve it?

 

If you were to buy a big brake kit, it would be for better stopping power right? That is because there is more of a rotor, therefore more of a surface area for the pads to grab causing quicker stopping. By drilling holes in the rotor, you are taking away from the surface area.These cross drilled rotors are actually dangerous if they were cast as solid rotors and then drilled. This causes the rotors to be brittle. It is different if they were cast with the holes because your not taking away from the strength of the rotor by drilling holes. Have you ever seen a F1 racecar? They are solid rotors. I have been racing for years and the only thing we use are brembo blanks with quality pads. I agree with you on our vehicles not stopping very well with the OEM setup but brembo blanks with some ebc yellow pads would probably give you the best stopping ability.

And dragon- Every ceramic pad I have ever used has some amount of squeel. Posi quiet are cheap and will have alot of squeel. Invest in some EBC's or some Hawks and it wont be so bad. I had an 04 clk430 that had some cheap pads on there when we got it with the same issue as you. Switched them to some hawks and the squeel only happened when the brakes were cold, after heating up to operating temps you didnt hear a sound.

 

Speed - I appreciate your argument but do you have any first hand experience with the R1 Slotted / Drilled rotors and the Posi Quiet pads? MANY members have this setup and very few have any noise at all. Also, more surface area does not neccessarily mean better stopping power - think of tires. If we were all to ride round on slicks (with MORE tire on the ground) we would all stop better, right? Oh but what about the rain and snow?

Are there better setups out there? Sure. Are there better setups for the money? I have not found it one yet.

The point I am making is that you may be correct but I would need to see imperical evidence to show me that holes / slots in the brakes do not assist with cooling them which is the main reason for brake fade. Moreover, the performance of these brakes over stock is night and day.

 

I just ordered R1 slotted and drilled rotors with posi-quiet ceramics on the recommendation of many members here, so I hope I'm not disappointed. (Btw...15% Memorial Day sale off ends today!)

I always thought the drilled setup was really to help dissipate heat, thus less fade, thus better overall braking performance. While the slots help keep the pad surface clear of any brake crud. And, I really can't argue with spta97 that they look cool! I can't say that I've found the armada to be lacking in braking unless I'm loaded up. I just couldn't stand the warping and excessive squealing with the oem's and when so many people are happy with a product, I figure I can't go wrong.

 

I have race experience too and have heard both arguments over many years. It is true, theoretically without holes you have more swept area and all things being equal more stopping power. But the holes increase surface area which increase cooling and reduce unsprung (and rotating) weight. I am also a molding engineer and would disagree with the statement that rotors are better if holes are molded in place. When material is flowing and it has to split and rejoin while flowing around an object in the mold, the flowfront is partially cured so it does not rejoin completely and forms a knitline which is a defect where a crack can easily start. It is kind of a moot point anyway. If you have ever seen a race rotor after it is done, it is all scored and has so many cracks it looks like a piece of wood, but it still worked in that condition!

The solid rotor argument does not take into account debris or brake temperature. Don't think debris is a problem? Your stock rotors are going to score over a pretty short period of time. Slotted rotors for the most part do not score because the debris is swept away. Drilled rotors unfortunately do score because usually the holes are not placed in a way to sweep the entire surface evenly. When your rotor scores it will generate it's own signature, that translates to a unique swept area that will not match the other side. In many cases that leads to pulling when the brakes age.

Pads do gas, and it really increases as temps rise. The slots help the pads bite by channeling away gas. This can swing the stopping power back over to slotted in certain situations. It is definitely not cut and dry.

Still it is the whole system that needs to be engineered because different pads have different coefficients of friction and are designed for a certain applications and temp ranges. Race pads for example need to heat up before they start working so for the class you were racing in a solid rotor and a track pad may very well be the best way to go but no way is that set up going to work on a big SUV driven on the street. Also again F1 rotors are ceramic / carbon fiber which again are engineered for that application. Apples to oranges again.

This is a true statement, if you had marginal braking and you took those disks off and drilled them keeping everything else the same then yes braking power would be reduced. But when you change pads, that changes the equation. Add ss brake lines that blurs the line further. Maybe the posi quiet pads gas more than the stock pads, now that changes things even more. You get the picture. So if a number of people have a certain combination of changes and are happy with the results it should be reliable info.

I have had good luck with slotted rotors in the past and have a set on order with posiquiet pads. I am hoping for some improvement over EBC Greenstuff on there now.