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Any updates on any success stories? I am having the BCI and intermittent no start issues as well. Been in twice and have a brake switch and some module replace but still not fixed.
My OEM lasted a month or so after I cleaned the contacts in the brake switch then started having issues...put my replacement switch in a couple weeks ago and all is well again. I took the OEM switch apart and cleaned the contacts again (black soot was on them again) put it back together and put it in the glovebox as a backup. Looks like it’s just going to be an ongoing issue but I’m out of warranty so at least I know what the problem is and I can fix it very easily.
 

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2019 SL 40,000 Miles car wouldn’t start intermittently over the last few weeks, yesterday BCI malfunction came on and VDC came on and the brakes locked down and engine lost power (both symptoms of the VDC when spinning tires) After reading the owners manual (to no avail) I came on this forum and followed several folks advice (thanks y’all). I topped off the brake fluid but that did nothing. I ordered a new brake switch yesterday from eBay $14. While I am waiting I decided to take the old switch apart and found it to have black soot (for lack of a better term) on the contacts inside the switch...cleaned them off applied new dielectric grease (added some to the plunger too for smooth operation) put it all back together and it still did the same thing...then I adjusted the switch to where the plunger did not touch the brake. Car started without pushing brake. So then I adjusted down so that the brake (when released) just pushed the plunger in about 1/16 to 1/12 of an inch. Got in and it cranked right up! Backed out and no VDC lights and no BCI malfunction (they were on continuously before) and brakes were released. Drove it around the block and it’s working as it should. My new brake light assembly will be here next week but I plan to keep this one in until it malfunctions again before I replace it with my spare. Hope this helps
Hi- this is helpful. can you tell me where the brake switch is and how easy/ hard is it to get to?
 

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Hi- this is helpful. can you tell me where the brake switch is and how easy/ hard is it to get to?
It is located on the brake lever (above the peddle) it's not hard to get to but you will have to lay on your back to see under the dash and remove it. There are 2 sensors (BCI & Cruise Control) contacting the lever...the one on the top is the BCI and one you want to clean/replace. Just make sure you follow my instructions when you put it back in so that the plunger just barely pushes in 1/12 to 1/16 inch when the brake is fully released, otherwise it will engage the brakes and you won't be able to drive it (ask me how I know, lol). The one I replaced it with ($14 off ebay) has worked flawlessly since I installed it so I hope the problem is fixed.
 

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It is located on the brake lever (above the peddle) it's not hard to get to but you will have to lay on your back to see under the dash and remove it. There are 2 sensors (BCI & Cruise Control) contacting the lever...the one on the top is the BCI and one you want to clean/replace. Just make sure you follow my instructions when you put it back in so that the plunger just barely pushes in 1/12 to 1/16 inch when the brake is fully released, otherwise it will engage the brakes and you won't be able to drive it (ask me how I know, lol). The one I replaced it with ($14 off ebay) has worked flawlessly since I installed it so I hope the problem is fixed.
OK perfect. I watched a youtube video as well on brake switch replacement. I don't have a new one, but I'll clean the contact points and see if that works. I may have questions on adjusting the plunger... but I'm going to get in the car later tonight and see if it makes sense while i'm stuck under the dash. question- did the throttle, and transmission seem "off" as well while driving this with BCI malfunction lights on? it seems to idle weird and not have any throttle control. I'm guessing it's all related to the computer thinking the brake is applied, and shutting down throttle and drivetrain. thx.
 

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Yes, it was like it was choked and had very little power. Betting that is your problem. Take a picture of the switch before you remove it so you’ll know about where it goes when you put it back in.
 

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Another owner with the same problem that started today. 2018 24k miles, I see some of you have said replacing the sensor fixes the issue, and others that said it comes back again. Is that right? Or IS there a definitive fix? I am under warranty And plan on pressing the issue. Thanks!
 

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Since you’re still under warranty then definitely make them fix it but I wouldn’t be surprised if they just start replacing parts that have nothing to do with the problem...you may even have to tell them how to fix it based on the recommendations from this site. The problem will return if they replace the defective switch with the same (presumably defective) switch (unless the OEM has changed the MfG process or materials used). My $14 aftermarket switch has worked great over the last 4 months!
 

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Hey guys,

Just chiming in to say our new-to-us (2-mos old) 2019 is exhibiting all of the typical symptom - won't start, locked in park, BCI malfunction. I put a call into Nissan Consumer Affairs and asked if they would not only take care of it since I'm only 3K-miles out of warranty, but if they'd issue a recall. I'll reply back after I get it to my local dealer service to get the "official" trouble diagnostics and update the case.

Also, if you're stick in the vehicle and can't start it, try the remote start: get out of the truck, press the lock button the remote, then hold the top button for a few seconds. That's gotten us up and running every time since this started.

Brad
 

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Today while I was driving suddenly the BCI malfunction light came ON. I had to turn the engine off and fire it up again to make it go away. Anyone have this come up? Not sure why it popped up. Backup camera and sonar is functional.
I've had this issue twice now. I have 2019 Armada. Would not start and could not shift it out of park. It is a bad break switch causing these problems. This is the 2nd switch I've had gone bad, either a bad design or defective parts.
 

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I keep a spare eBay switch in the glovebox. Really wish Nissan would issue an actual recall.

You would think that the inability to start a vehicle would be a life/death situation. IMHO it comes down to the small number of these vehicles on the road. If this was happening to an F150 it would already be handled. (Disclaimer....in no way saying that an F150 is a superior vehicle)
 

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Still having issues on my 5th brake switch at this point Nissian has to be fully aware of the problem however to recall prob cost more then to deal with a few legal suits and or wrongful deaths due to this issue causing an accident. I have opened two cases up with Nissian North America and they are useless. They do not stand behind their vehicles. I sued them and won a few thousand dollars for my troubles but at this point the few grand is not worth the 70k POS I am stuck with. Next I may look into Legal action against the dealer for failing to fix this issue. This started under 30k and has been ongoing ever since. Now I have a 2017 platinum with 78k and they have Failed many times to fix. 5 brake switches and two batteries later... this truck is a joke and so is Nissian. It will continue to happen for all of you and as time goes on other issues will arise. Last time I could not shift had to put the car in manual shift mode and it was shifting really hard. My driver side heated seat switch was replaced twice. Passenger side once and currently not working and my passenger power door locks have a mind of their own and work when they want to. There is some sort of electrical issue Linked to this and Nissian is Turning there heads.
 

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Having same BCI issue. I have 2019 Platinum trim. How did all of you get this resolved??? Very angry this is happening with a 60k+ vehicle!!!

Took mine to Boulder, CO dealer service center. Master mechanic came out and looked at while I was there. Lights were all up on the dash and I didn't turn off the car. He said he had dealt with it a few times before on the same car. Here's a copy of what they replace. Replaced the stop lamp switch and everything is working well now. hopefully it doesn't return.
Have you had any issues since you replaced the stop lamp switch? What about brake switch which several had posted with BCI malfunction?
 

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Having same BCI issue. I have 2019 Platinum trim. How did all of you get this resolved??? Very angry this is happening with a 60k+ vehicle!!!


Have you had any issues since you replaced the stop lamp switch? What about brake switch which several had posted with BCI malfunction?
Hi Craig, appreciate your reply! Armada is currently at dealership and I will definitely mention these two possible solutions. Is your Armada running fine after your last visit to solve BCI issue?
 

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For the second time, my Armada is in the shop. It drives fine, I leave it for some time, then come back and it won't start. The dashboard flashes very briefly, but nothing happens. The first time the service guys ran every test and could not duplicate... so pushed it off as a fluke! This second time, I had 1 guy try to jump me and still nothing. Then after he left, I attempted to start it again. I heard a pop and then got the clicking as I tried to start it. Finally got it started with roadside assistance and took it straight to Nissan. Once again, they are not finding anything. All tests are being passed. I AM AT A LOSS. One service guy mentioned that there could be a faulty brake switch, apparently this is the 18 or 19th Armada seeing this problem.

ANYONE SEEING THIS PROBLEM. Ridiculous I have to try and fix my own truck!
This is kind of what happens to mine (2017 SL 4x4.) Initially happened last week with my wife, she couldn't get the car started to pick up my daughter from a class. I thought maybe she just wasn't pushing down the brake hard enough or the stop lamp switch was going again (we had an issue previously on the freeway that turned out to be the stop lamp switch - replaced with updated version and everything seemed fine.)

The other day I took the Armada to pick up something from the drugstore at night and when I came out it wouldn't start - the lights (and power in the car) would turn off when I tried it. I tried it off and on several times until all power stopped working in the vehicle - even the key fob. I have ordered another stop lamp switch, but I fail to see how that would turn all the power off in my vehicle.

When I initially changed the stop lamp switch I changed to an Optima yellow top battery, but this issue reminds me of when my Titan goes down on battery power.
 

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There is a recall for a sensor that drains the battery down after the vehicle is turned off. Happened to me several times...run in the store come back out and dead battery (had battery tested and it showed no signs of problems, just drained) then worked fine for a while before happening again for no apparent reason. Recall seems to have fixed the problem.
 

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There is a recall for a sensor that drains the battery down after the vehicle is turned off. Happened to me several times...run in the store come back out and dead battery (had battery tested and it showed no signs of problems, just drained) then worked fine for a while before happening again for no apparent reason. Recall seems to have fixed the problem.
Do you know what recall this is? Or what the part # for the sensor is?
 

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Actually there are 2 recalls:

P0A05 GTR ARM EC

R1911 NIS AV CON

Both required reprogramming to be corrected. I believe you can google Nissan recall and put your VIN in and find out if your vehicle is affected. Sorry I don’t have more info, got the recall numbers off my receipt.
 

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After searching TSBs, if you have a 2019 this could be your issue. Haven't found what it is in my 2017 even though this would match, it honestly seems like a loose plug/wire. Knowing Nissans I wouldn't doubt that I got a dud battery from Optima that's causing my personal issues...
 

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Ok guys I just joined and read the complete post. My 2017 has had this issue since I bought it new on June if 2017. I have 45k miles on it now and my first issue started at 14kmiles then at 18k, 22k And last at 29k. And all these times the dealer was replacing the stop switch because I was also having the no start issue along with BCI malfunction. I got so tired, annoyed and pissed of at Nissan for not doing shit about it! So about replacing the switch I did some research. I searched the switch part number and which vehicles it fit. It fits many models from 07+ Muranos, maximas, altimas etc. I went to the local junk yard and pulled one switch off an 07 Murano and an 07 Altima. They are OEM and made by Niles. The 17 armada OEM is made by valeo. At 29k miles when I had my last same issue about a year ago i didn’t go to the dealer, I installed the niles switch. 16k+ miles So far I havnt had any issues at all. And that’s a used old switch. So if you buy a new switch for an 07 Murano etc. your gonna get the new valeo OEM brand. I have 3 spare OEM niles For future issues and so far nada. I hope I won’t need them. I don’t know if Nissan cheaped out and went with valeo or who knows. I just hope this research i did helps others by using the old style switch. And can only get it at the junk yards lol. It’s worth a shot.
 
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